balance shaft removal
#11
#12
RE: balance shaft removal
cool thanks...one of my friends removed the balance shaft and he said his car reved a little faster...and it was supposed to free up like 10 hp...but i really dont think im gonna do it though, i plan on keeping the car for a while and dont need to throw a new motor in it down the road...thanks for the help though, much appreciated!
#13
RE: balance shaft removal
ORIGINAL: spence
i agree with the vibration from the mm. i had the agp solid mm for 3 or 4 months and sold em cause of the vibration when i turned on the ac. size tap did you use for the hole?
i agree with the vibration from the mm. i had the agp solid mm for 3 or 4 months and sold em cause of the vibration when i turned on the ac. size tap did you use for the hole?
As for the vibration, the balance shafts are there for the comfort of the passengers. There was a big discussion about this not to long ago on SRTForums. IIRC, even one of the engineers said that the balance shafts serve no purpose other than to make the car feel "smoother" to the passengers.
#15
RE: balance shaft removal
No offense taken. For the record, I would never use the "F" word to a fellow Dodge owner. If U read what what Roadrunner wrote (he and I are from the "old Dodge school" when we were moding 2.2L and 2.5L's. He knows his stuff) Unless your building an all out race car, it's not recomended. BUT>>>>if you can deal with the NVH issues that go along with that type of mod, go for it. He is correct in stating it MAY cause some extra wear. Actually, I stand corrected, a John Deere would be smoother..LOL.
ORIGINAL: spence
Sorry about that...those kind of comments really get on my nerves. I just asked a simple question and was looking for a helpfull answer and instead i got that...
Sorry about that...those kind of comments really get on my nerves. I just asked a simple question and was looking for a helpfull answer and instead i got that...
#16
#19
Hey Spence. First of all, I think your a #*&$ idiot removing them. Second, I know what they feel like with no balance shaft, and if you spend most of your time on a John Deere, you probably like it. Don't ever bring that car to my dealership for warranty work, cause there isn't a warranty on it now.
Thanks SRT YA.
Thanks SRT YA.
Interesting concept comparing a used car worth maybe 12k tops to the bulwark tech company in American equipment manufacturers. I was a corporate engineering and technical guy for Chrysler LLC for 21 years before this bankruptcy and had 10 years dealer tech experience similar I am sure to this quotemasters experience. John Deere sells tractors and combines that go for between 250,000 and 300,000 bucks...having driven some of those I can attest to the fact that they are pretty smooth. Seeing as how I was bought and sold 4 times with Chrysler and John Deere has a 175 year history and is still autonomous...that may not be your best attempt at slander...but please don't try again. to get this on track please consider this more technical answer below. It is clipped from my input on the stratusphere forum discussion but has direct application for the 2.4l in srt.
There is a sound engineering principle at work here that reinforces leaving the balance shaft carrier in. The purpose of the expensive tray and baffles is of course to keep the crankshaft from becoming like a blender and foaming oil that could potentially get sucked into the oil pump. Aeration can french fry rod bearings so that would be a bad thing.
Any good windage control system peels the oil off the crank as it carries with the rotation of the crank. Years ago Chrysler engineers discovered helping pro stock hemi and super stock wedge racers that they could benefit here since at 8000 rpm on a race hemi with a ten quart pan ....8 quarts rotated with the crank and two quarts stayed around to lube things. All big block HP engines and the 340 small block had windage trays from the factory for this reason. Those cars didn't turn and stop like these cars do so we have to concern ourselves with G force acting on the oil in turns and braking situations.
The Balance shaft carrier assembly does help the oil stay down in the pan and acts as a baffle. If you take it out entirely the oil moves around more. As for the weight ...I did a highly scientific comparison that involved an empty BS carrier, a bottle of mobil 1 oil..and a bathroom scale.
Here are the results:
Mobil 1 quart 1 lb. 15 oz.
emtpy balance shaft carrier ready to bolt on 6 lb 2 oz.
gutted components from BS assy. 7 lb.
I think it is clearly documented here that the friction loss and parasitic drag related to the 7 lb of balance shafts, gears and chain are what we are anxious to shed. I agree with this ...in fact I remember a hot rod tech article where they just started carving pieces off a car and seeing what difference it made in quarter mile performance...They came to the conclusion that reducing 1 pound of weight that the engine had to turn gave the same performance gain as taking 50 pounds out of the interior or trunk. I want dyno numbers but some pretty savvy tech guys I know claim true 10 HP gains with just this.
Concerning the recommendation to take it off to save the weight...the concensus is to raise the oil pan level back up to make up for the displaced BS carrier. My 98 stratus takes almost 5 quarts with the PT Cruiser long oil filter on it...so now I have to buy two additional quarts of Mobil 1 at 7 bucks a quart!
that oil will weigh just shy of 4 Lb.s...My carrier weighs six pounds two ounces...and is a free windage tray and helps baffle the oil on turns...If you consider that I reduced the overall weight of the car by 7 lb by taking the BS components out....
My car now weighs 5 pounds less , handles the oil better, keeps the oil off the crank at high rpm so it can do its job and since I saved 15 bucks not buying extra oil... I can use the 15 bucks to buy my wife a burger and some onion rings at sonic while we are test driving it
Now when my Ishaharra-Johnson crank scraper gets here I will let you know how it works.
Just fixitfirstime