mchat what do you mean when you say "the bleed mod and spring mod"

 

Heck, if a 50+ year old guy (me) can run a 13.8 with the mods listed below, you should have no problem with a 13.5. Lowering the air pressure in your front tires will help a bit as will cooler air temps.....in other words, don't drag race in Texas in the summer!

Dusty

 

Shoot you old guys are the ones to watch out for! My dad smokes me in the quarter every time!!!

Thanks everyone for your information and advice i appreciate it!!

 

I have to agree with the quote above . I read and read, in this and other forums, and compared 1/4 mile times on the s2 w and w/out toys and kept uncovering the same outcome.

 

The bleed mod is adding a plastic straight through connector in the line to the WG. Then a small hole (1/16") is drilled in the plastic connector.

The spring mod is attaching a carb spring to the WGA arm so that there is a little additional pressure on the WGA.

Just cheap "ghetto" boost modifiers.

 

S2 with toys..spend the extra cash and get the whole setup. You will love it trust me. Put on some DR's and you will probaly see the 13.3 range, with some PT steel wheels and slicks you could possibly make it into the 12.90 range on race gas..Do not do the gheto WGA spring mod( mentioned above)..it will waste your turbo.

 

I am sure those times are easy to beat. I hit a 13.2 first time ever at the dragstrip with s2 and toys. That was on street radials, not drag radials. It was off of a 2.105 60'. With drag radials - I am hoping to be at worst a 12.9 after I get a little experience at the strip. With 15"slicks I want to be around 12.6 or so.

Next up - stage 3 and 11's.

I agree 100% - don't do the ghetto mods. Cheap power is fine as long as you don't mind your engine blowing up.

 

It doesn't matter if you spend $175 on a new WGA or use the spring mod. You're running more boost than stock. The spring mod isn't going to destroy your turbo any more than adding an aftermarket WGA (including Stage 2's WGA) and/or a boost controller of some sort.

If you add the cheaper TurboXS manual boost controller, guess what. You've just done the "Bleed Mod" The only difference is the amount of "bleed" is adjustable and the unit costs more.

The bottom line is you can only boost so much on the Stage 0 computer. It doesn't matter if you're doing it with ghetto mods or $$$ mods.

Edit: A friend of mine recently ran 12.8 on Stage 0 running right at 18psi using an Electronic Boost controller. He has other mods as well (Drag Radials, 3" exhaust, CAI, FMIC) but no "fuel" mods. Just running more boost on the Stage 0 stock maps.