ok so i took my car in for the boost gauge deal i posted about previously(gauge going up and then vibrating around)
and my dealership told me there was nothing he could do that i needed to buy the mopar exhaust and have it put on he said too much air going in not enough going out and thats the only way to fix this is he lying or is the set up designed to have problems until you put on all mopars upgrades?

 

Check out the thread titled

Boost doesn't spike - 12/3/2005 started by Andy4.7

I think this will help clear things up.

My car also has a vibrating boost guage, but I still haven't check my clamps.


2005 STR-4 2,100 miles

 

I READ ANDYS THREAD BUT IM BOOSTING UP TO 14LBS NOW AND ITS VIBRATING AND GOING DOWN TO 12 IS THIS THE SAME PROB AS HIM IF SO WHAT ALL BOLTS AND CLAMPS DO I NEED TO TIGHTEN SINCE THE DEALERSHIP IS NO HELP..

 

In my opinion, the dealer is trying to screw you for sales.

What i would do is get a new boost gauge. Go to a local speed shop, ebay, or a cheapo from autozone. If the fluttering of the boost controller persist then you may want to recheck ALL vacumm lines, the solenoids etc.... We had that problem before and we reinstalled all the lines and the leaks stoped. the turbo side ALWAYS seems to be the first to leak! In addition you have to consider that a wastegate controlls boost by releasing pressure. Not a substantial that you will notice ... for example. if your boost is set to 14psi then the wastegate will begin to open at 14.1 then close at 13.9 this happens soo fast that you should NOT notice it on the boost controller yet from our past experience with the SRT and boost spike you will spike and then slowly come to a HOLD. Recheck everything before you go buying things. Exhaust helps with top end and the bubbles and pops, also with holding some additional boost. Just try breathing out of a cofee straw and a mcdonald straw


A recent problem we have had is the vacumm line right under the intake plenum. its kind of hidden but make sure its secure if this were to come loose like it has on us then you may want to start praying or thinking rationaly. The brakes are shut off, and the boost controller reports NOTHING. it gets hairy :-O.... anyways hope my 2 cents worth helps out..



edited-- typo's

 

Here is the link from Andy4.7. He uploaded this very nice pic of the innercooler hoses and the clamp locations.

hoses & clamps I/C

 

I spoke with dominican SRT4 he i told him to read my post and he was confused about the 14psi... that was an example of how a wga works. He pointed out that the Stock wga is set to 4psi if so that means it should open at 4.1 and close at 3.9.... The solenoids and the ecu control the amount of boost to open the wga. In other words.. RECHECK THE VACUMM LINES. Make sure that its properly setup and securely. Also i remember when we first began modding the car we asked psichick about the block off plate. Correct me if im wrong plz but she said that if you have an after market intake you need a block off plate. If you do this i believe we had to also block off a few lines. Once we did all that the boost really settled. At first we were spiking 17 and holding 10-11, once we blocked it off and rechecked all the lines the boost jumped from 21spike to 17 hold. Stage 1 PCM and S1 Injectors... Stock exhaust and AEM intake. No other mods.

 

thats not necesary to have block off plate just for intake.

 

you need a block off plate if you have an aftermarket bov, not intake.

that's definetly a new one. you need an exhaust to fix your boost gauge. i've heard it all now.

the first thing you need to do is LEAK TEST THE CAR. i believe i already said this, but i guess i was talking to thin air because you obviously didn't listen. a shakey needle like that is indicitive of a BOOST LEAK. it doesn't even mean that the gauge is bad. take it one step at a time. leak test the car and then see if that fixes the problem.

 

lol thanks for correcting me psichick... in a odd way but thanks :P

 

that wasn't all directed at you