Stage 2 initial impressions
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50047
Shows a complete list of tools, and tips. Here's the tool list.
T-20 and T-25 torx drivers
-3/4", 5/16", 3/32" drill bits
-hand drill and an electric drill
-you will also need something very skinny and at least 3.5" long (we used a 1/16" drill bit) to pierce and then clear the way for where the new wires enter the PCM connectors.
-wrenches and/or sockets: 10mm, 8mm, 13mm, 15mm
-snap ring pliers (optional, you can use your hands for this step)
-needle nose pliers
-philips and flat head screwdrivers
-exacto or wire splicers (I used an exacto when tapping into exisitng wires)
-coat hanger (would make fishing the wire thorugh the foot well much easier)
-electrical tape
-rags or towels (some fuel spills when depressurizing the system)
-soldering gun
-strong fingers
-spectacles, so you can see those damn tiny pin numbers and letters
the LEDs use the 5/16th, one of the easiest parts, they have fairly long leads, give you a choice.
Shows a complete list of tools, and tips. Here's the tool list.
T-20 and T-25 torx drivers
-3/4", 5/16", 3/32" drill bits
-hand drill and an electric drill
-you will also need something very skinny and at least 3.5" long (we used a 1/16" drill bit) to pierce and then clear the way for where the new wires enter the PCM connectors.
-wrenches and/or sockets: 10mm, 8mm, 13mm, 15mm
-snap ring pliers (optional, you can use your hands for this step)
-needle nose pliers
-philips and flat head screwdrivers
-exacto or wire splicers (I used an exacto when tapping into exisitng wires)
-coat hanger (would make fishing the wire thorugh the foot well much easier)
-electrical tape
-rags or towels (some fuel spills when depressurizing the system)
-soldering gun
-strong fingers
-spectacles, so you can see those damn tiny pin numbers and letters
the LEDs use the 5/16th, one of the easiest parts, they have fairly long leads, give you a choice.
About the fluid. And I quote from the install directions.
"NOTE: Distilled water is the recommended fluid for the intercooler sprayers. Use of the intercooler spray system is not recommended in driving conditions that warrant use of washer solvent."
Of course, I spray Rain-Xs winshield washer fluid, the orange stuff. Stufff is GREAT!!!!!!! But since I don't want to spray that on the intercooler, I'm going to rig an auxillary tank for the sprayers. Gotta get a small tank mounted, probably a coolant overflow tank of some kind. Til I hit the junkyard, the hose and wires are capped and stowed
"NOTE: Distilled water is the recommended fluid for the intercooler sprayers. Use of the intercooler spray system is not recommended in driving conditions that warrant use of washer solvent."
Of course, I spray Rain-Xs winshield washer fluid, the orange stuff. Stufff is GREAT!!!!!!! But since I don't want to spray that on the intercooler, I'm going to rig an auxillary tank for the sprayers. Gotta get a small tank mounted, probably a coolant overflow tank of some kind. Til I hit the junkyard, the hose and wires are capped and stowed
What would be the difference in performance if i choose not to get the turbo toys for the 2nd stage?, and could i get them afterwards? because i heard that once you buy the kit w/o the toys you won't be able to purchase them.[X(]
The difference in performance is really only with the high octane switch, it allows more power with the use of 100 octane unleaded gasoline. With a tank full of 100 octane and a flip of the switch and you will go from Stage 2's 265 horsepower to 280 horsepower. That is correct, you cannot purchase and add toys later.
71RR,
While it's true that dynowise, the only differences are the 20hp bump for racegas, and a 5hp for the sprayer, that's dyno. Real world, Toys has the advantage of two selectable tristage boost settings. There's only a few S2s out there, but initial indications show it gives a good advantage in launch. I know theres a 94-96 Vette that can vouch for that
Hope to hit the track today at MIR, if this misting clears.
While it's true that dynowise, the only differences are the 20hp bump for racegas, and a 5hp for the sprayer, that's dyno. Real world, Toys has the advantage of two selectable tristage boost settings. There's only a few S2s out there, but initial indications show it gives a good advantage in launch. I know theres a 94-96 Vette that can vouch for that
Hope to hit the track today at MIR, if this misting clears.
This may sound like a silly question but I keep hearing about the 100 grade Octane and the switch for it. But does this kit come with a new tank for the 100 Octane? And if so how big is it? If it doesnt how exactly does that work?
No additional tank, just the cars original fuel tank. You are supose to run out as much of the 91+ octane you normally use as possible, this way the slight amount 91+ octane thats left won't degrade the 100 octane much at all if any. Then you go to a gas station that carrys 100 octane gasoline and fill it up. When you have driven it for about 10-15 minutes all the lower grade 91+ octane gasoline should be out of the fuel lines and replaced with the 100 octane you just put in it. Now flip the high octane switch and have fun.[sm=smiley4.gif][sm=smiley2.gif]
Yeah, they want you to run it until the low fuel warnings come on.....then, hopefully, you'll be near a station that sells 100 octane....
Hey glhs837 when you said MIR did you Maryland International in Bowie, MD? I'm just wondering b/c I live in Calvert County and when I come home in the summer back to MD I am always up that way. I was wondering what you need to run your car there and when. I haven't run mine yet and am at 2200 miles and probably close to 3000 when I get to MD so I'm sure it will be plenty broken in.
Yep, I live about 25 minutes away, down by Pax River NAS. If you are runnig quicker than 14.0, you need a helmet. we've got about 6-8 SRTs here in St Mary's, at least 2-3 in Calvert, and Charles has a bunch, mostly centered on Andrews. where in Calvert, , one owner lives in Owings.



