tubo lag question
First off, the laws of airflow rule out the size of your tubing. When you increase the intake length, it is advisable to reduce the diameter of the tubing to increase/or maintain the correct velocity of air.
k&n HAS SOME OF THE MOST TESTED INTAKES on the market. My Subaru LGT's K&N inside diameter is 57mm ID. The stock ID is 63mm. The K&N is twice as long as the stock. The guy in NH that tunes these cars has tested Perrins, K&N's, AEM's, etc. He was skeptical about the K&N because of the diameter decrease, BUT, on the dyno it flows the most air out of all of them....period. It's not about diameter, its about flow/velocity. Short ram intake's should be of 3" dia because of the length of it.
Your problem is probably somewhere else. Take it off and see if it changes
k&n HAS SOME OF THE MOST TESTED INTAKES on the market. My Subaru LGT's K&N inside diameter is 57mm ID. The stock ID is 63mm. The K&N is twice as long as the stock. The guy in NH that tunes these cars has tested Perrins, K&N's, AEM's, etc. He was skeptical about the K&N because of the diameter decrease, BUT, on the dyno it flows the most air out of all of them....period. It's not about diameter, its about flow/velocity. Short ram intake's should be of 3" dia because of the length of it.
Your problem is probably somewhere else. Take it off and see if it changes
this is off the subject but from what ive read the electrical parts you need if you do a swap you need the cluster and ecu but im told that my car wont start without either but if i got a stage one that has never seen the sentry or whatever do i still have to get the cluster? i think if its never seen the sentry it would just use my cluster and key. i know i need the ecu to run the engine but i dont understand why i need the cluster.


