That circuit breaker is for the gauges, The amp meter didn't have one. If you look at diagram 8-111 the power feed is W1-12T. W2-14Y is the feed for the other three switches. 8W-12K is the ground. If the window motor moves with the drivers switch you need to look at the passenger switch and check if the switch is getting power at W2-14Y wire. Also need to check for a negative at the switch as well. W22-14V or W12-14P are for power and ground from the drivers switch, You have to check and see witch is witch.

 

OK, thanks, will check and come back with the results.

Jacques

 

Sorry for the very delayed response but I ended up with a cancer that somehow took most of my attention (Surgeries then chemo). Waste of time for sure but I'm back at work on the car. Here's what I did so far:
1. Checked wires going from main switch, under carpet, through fender cowl and into door up to switch and motor (new). No problem.
2. Checked that I had local power at W2-14Y: OK
3. Noticed all lights dimming when local switch is activated up or down and W2-14Y gets hot. Suspected faulty local switch.
4. Purchased two brand new switches (Not cheap!) but alas with same result as above with both.
5. I now suspect a ground issue W8-12BK but if it is the case then shouldn't it also affect the main switch and other switches?

Thanks,

Jacques

 

Is the motor bad???

 

Hi Hey You,
Motor is new. Tested it on an other new motor in stock (for rear window so not installed) with same result and, of course, windows goes up and down quickly when triggered from main switch.

Thanks,

Jacques

 

Can you jumper the connector on the local switch, and make the window work? Got power to the switch??

 

There is power to the local switch(Yellow centre wire). When I activate the switch up or down there is little power (2-3 V) going to the up/down terminals (long purple and short p

ink wires) and toward the motor so it does not activate. The power wire (yellow) in the centre of the local switch gets hot real fast. If I do the same from the main switch I get 12V to the terminals (short purple and long pink)and the motor works fine. No heat build up at any of the terminals of the local switch.

 

Think I might be tempted to trace that yellow wire..... Does voltage on that one also drop off when you trip that switch?

 

Yes it does. As suggested I will trace back the yellow wire (Quite a job now that the interior is all back together so it will take some time...). According to the wiring diagram the yellow wire originate from the tan wire at the main switch on the driver side. But then where does the power come from when the window is activated from the main switch? Don't you hate electrical problems?

Thanks,

Jacques

 

I always hated electrical issues..... and since I was certified for them, I usually got stuck with 'em.

I would guess that controlling windows from the master switch, power is drawn from the feed to the master switch, wherever that comes from.......