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transmission cooler and remote filter added

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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 08:56 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by olyelr
Looks to me like your the one who resurrected the dead thread


But, cheers for searching, noob LOL
What the hell?

This was on the first page...... I very seldom get beyond page two of the forums....... (no new posts beyond that.)

ITS A CONSPIRACY!!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 09:09 AM
  #42  
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I knew he fell off the wagon.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 12:56 PM
  #43  
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Is the additional tranny oil filter that comes with the BM kit really beneficial?

Also can I use traditional motor oil filters instead, or is there something special about the tranny oil filters? The motor oil filters work at much higher PSI where tranny is a pretty low PSI applications.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 07:05 AM
  #44  
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i figure that if a check valve can clog up with debris, then a filter in the same line can't hurt.

my kit came with a plain old F1A or F8A ? oil filter, so that's what i've been using for 5 years. no problems except broken OD snap ring. I'm not aware of any special low pressure oil filters. I do know that if a cooler line slips off, the transmission pumps out about 12 quarts of fluid in a very short amount of time, so it must be flowing ok.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 01:31 PM
  #45  
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installed a new cooler:


I put on one of these recently and bypassed the stock cooler in the radiator. This is the one the diesel guys use.

Tru-Cool 4739-1 LPD47391
40,000 GVW rating, 45,000 BTU
The -1 does not include the cold weather bypass. If you live in a cold climate you'll need that bypass or the transmission might run too cold to engage overdrive.

it comes with 3/8" barbed fittings and a length of hose. I needed an additional length of hose to reach all the way around to the front of the condenser. it did not come with the zip-tie kit, which i got at Advance for about $5-6. tip when installing the zip tie in condenser - place it where you want it and measure it and center it and get it straight and mark the locations for the zip ties with a dab of paint or marker. then using a small screwdriver or nail, gently wiggle a generous hole through the condenser fins. then lift out the condenser and slip the zip ties into the holes from the back side.

here's a cheaper price at $132.50 incl free shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRU-COOL-473...item4ac0ea4275

i got mine here awhile back for $145.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Truck-...item35bd937dba



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Last edited by dhvaughan; Feb 10, 2013 at 03:19 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 02:33 PM
  #46  
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I wonder if a person could use a water heater bypass kit (commonly used on RVs) installed at the cooler?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 02:55 PM
  #47  
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You can get thermal bypass units for just such an occasion for relatively cheap. Most bypass up to about 180*.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 03:21 PM
  #48  
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the 4739 (without the -1 suffix) comes with the thermal bypass for about an extra $20-30. it can also be purchased separately for the same $20-30.

complete unit w/bypass
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSMISSION...-/320728601566

bypass only
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRU-COOL-LON...7896e3&vxp=mtr
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 03:37 PM
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Anyone verify how well thes work? I have an extra on for my RV, but it would require manually operating each of two valves.

If this works well automatically, I may look at installing one, but the cold is not really an issue here for me like it is for many others. But my concern is if it fails, what are the possible consequences? WOuld it just not open an function as thought there was no cooler, which would cause no harm. If flow was totally blocked, it could be catastrophic.

dhvaughn, did you *** this to yours?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 03:39 PM
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In texas, I really don't think its necessary.

That said, the good units work very well. Clean the cooler and lines and such every 50K or so, and no problems at all.
 
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