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Here's the story..nada from the a/c..I checked power to the plug in the engine compartment and I have power at the firewall/female side, then checked power past the plug and it still good. But At the point where the power wire splits into three wires. Splits into two legs and then one leg is split again Note: that doesn't look factory to me..but never had a Dodge before. One of the second split legs has a resister in it past this resistor I have no power!
So my questions:
1. Is that a factory setup???... power wire split into three leads one with a resistor/diode in it all going into or attached to the compressor.
2 Should there be a resistor/diode on one of the legs? should there be power after the diode?
3. If that resistor/diode is factory, can I jump past the resistor to see if the clutch will then come on..without damaging something else?
This is very important I live in AZ so this will be a big deal very soon!!!:>(
Yes Thats ok its just the covering came off as to jumping it I cant remember 00DakDan can help with that. Too tired to think today sorry and thats a diode not a resistor.
I can't make out from the drawing but is the diode, it's not a resistor, across the leads to the coil? If so, it should be there. It helps prevent an electrical spike when the compressor disengages.
Heat shrink is fine.
It should be parallel to the clutch, not in series.
This is how it should look as I said the protective covering just rotted off just tape it up shrink wrap it what ever is easy for you Pic below.
To test it I believe just unplug it then jump that direct to the positive battery terminal if you hear it click then it should be good dont hold the wire on the terminal. Just a second or two so it clicks then disconnect. Watch the face of the compressor it should move a little as it clicks you may see some dust come out as it clicks.
It may click but could still be bad if the magnetic pull has weakened to the point it cant hold the compressor but the click would be very weak also so it should be a strong sounding click.
Also if you are out of freon the clutch will not kick in or activate the jump will activate it even if you are out of freon.
You could try pumping in a can of freon one of those quick fill cans to see if it finally kicks on.
If you cant understand these things have a shop check it out just be cautious A/C fix rip offs are prevalent in Hot Arizona.
With the jump it should click even with no freon try one can of freon as a test. Replacing the coil was easy the hard part was finding the correct part.
Are you close to that shop I suggested they tested and diagnosed my problem I don't remember if they charged for the testing?
Most shops dont just replace the coil they want you to buy a new compressor they make more off a compressor over a coil just another shop con/ripoff.
I am not sure what part or where the coil is..I get the clutch and compressor are two separate parts..is the coil in the clutch..I have never worked on a car compressor before
I looked on Rockauto and I can get a compressor/clutch unit and an o ring kit for about $175 shipped. The question is then they list lots of other parts.evap coolers, orifice tubes, valve core and cap kits, dryer accumulator, ambient temp sensor..all kinds of stuff most between 5 and 15 dollars..hard to know what I need beyond the compressor kit and o rings kits and probably a valve core kit..won't hurt.
Having someone else diagnosis it probably would likely cost more than buying all the little stuff and replacing it just in case??? But I'll check with the place yoiu recommended and see what they will charge to go over the system.
03-04-2017, 01:43 PM
A/c not working 2002
