Howdy guys! After 14 long years I cussed at my Dad's oldtruck long enough to get the hood open! 98% sure Dad did a 360 swap but can't see the cast on the side well enough to tell. I'm going off the valve covers and the fact he told me he swapped the 318 for something and wished he wouldn't have. But anyhow, always wanted to get this running again ( I used to be able to Stand on the seat and reach and touch the ceiling!) Now I'm 6'5" and have a dead Dad and an awesome truck that needs to run. Engine isn't seized, got the tank out and cleaned and the oil drained, changed, cycles a few times and will be swapped along with the filter tomorrow. Going to flush the coolant and clean the rad. then new plugs and wires and distributor cap. Any words of wisdom like if I'm missing anything? Upgrade carb? Is it a 318?? I don't entirely know what I'm doing but I know I can figure it out. Thanks guys!!

 

Welcome to the forum!

 

How long has that been sitting?

 

The first thing I'd do is get in there with a shop vac and clean it out. All that straw and such will get in everything. You do need to know if you have a 318 or 360 (or 340). The 318 and 360 were balanced differently. That might be why your dad wished he hadn't swapped it. Personally, I'd pull the engine and work on a stand but you may not have the equipment. Part of the original vehicle VIN will be stamped on the side of the engine just above the oil pan.

You will need electrical power to the ignition. The Chrysler electronic is a simple to wire system. You will need fuel for it and if you can score a boat fuel tank with a bulb primer, that will work okay. Since it sat for a while, I'd shoot a little fogging oil in the cylinders before I started it. That will keep from scoring the walls before oil pressure builds. It will smoke when you fire it up. Don't forget your ballast resistor. Those tend to fail and will run you ragged trying to track the problem down.

If you want to know how to hot wire it, send me a PM. I don't post that where anybody can see it to keep from helping wheel thieves.

Lastly, if you have to replace the engine, I'd see about finding a good big block and transmission. The truck was designed for them even though the engine wasn't used after 1978.

 

Check the casting # on the block here and find out what it is.

 

Thank you! So the engine still moves easy and when I drained the oil there was somehow zero water in there, and it hadn't leaked a drop. Swapped just some other oil in there for a day after turning it by hand a few. The drained it and swapped the oil and filter (10w-30 with a wix filter for people who are curious) we drove it over where it sits 14 years ago, and no flakes or milky oil? Seems promising. I'm willing to work with it for now haha. Gonna get a battery today see if it turns on it's own and yeah I've got a boat tank to give it some fuel haha. Thank you for the advice I'll definitely be checking back in before I advance.