94 dakota 3.9 Magnum I want to be able to set the fuel Injector Sync and that takes a scan tool. I know of the DRBIII, The SnapOn Modis and maybe the MT2500 but I can only find the instructions for the Modis 9.4 and they are too expensive in eBay. I'm hoping there is a scantool that is cheaper than those I listed which can help me see the fuel sync so that I can set it. I'm thinking no more than $300 to $500. Cheaper than that I hope.

 

Research so far has me looking at the Actron CP9185 or CP9190 The operating manual, Chrysler starts page 157 seems to indicate either of them may show the live data necessary to set sync. https://actron.com/sites/default/fil...lish_16336.pdf If anyone has one let me know. I’m not sure of the OBDI option is extra or not.
The CP9185 is $388.52 and the CP9190 is $522.67

There is also the Actron
CP9690 $375.95 but its operating manual pdf. Is not working. I sent an email asking the link be repaired or they send me a copy. It indicates that Adobe won't open it and maybe some other program will. Could be a FF browser thing. https://actron.com/content/elite-aut...d-ii-scan-tool If anyone knows about these or Actron let me know.

I also spoke to Ray at this site http://dealerscantool.com/CHRYSLER.html and he doesn't know of anything other than the DRBIII he sells and just talking with him he seems to think the problem is the CAT. He suggested several way to work it out. I am probably going to stick a guage in the O2 sensor hole to see what pressure I get. It should be less than 5psi WOT. I think the temp sensor already proved it was bad but just to be sure its the back pressure causing me problems. He said I shouldn't worry about the fuel sync but its driving me nuts that everyone is so weaselly about checking it and making a record of that check.

 

I found an MT2500 and bought it. It should be here by next week and hoepfully the instructions I found to make it work will.
Here is the instructions I found in another forum
mt2500 or Modis How to use Modis 9.4 to set sync. ID the truck in the scanner, not the scope, select Engine, System tests, Set sync Signal.

I also found a manual way to do it here on this forum. This works to get the engine and dizzy to 0 then resets the PCM so that it thinks the engine is set at 0.

Pull the drivers side valve cover. Remove the distributor cap, but not the rotor. Remove all wires from the cap. Determine which terminal on the cap is number 1, and mark it CLEARLY, if it's a black cap with yellow paint, just something bright you can see well. Then, turn the engine so that BOTH valves are closed on number one cylinder, this is why I had you remove the valve cover. Once they both look closed, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer so that the engine sits at TDC. Oh, remove all spark plugs before attempting to turn the engine around by hand. Use a 1.25" socket on a breaker bar, should turn the engine. Make sure the tranny is in neutral as well. Once the timing marks are lined up, go back now, and loosen the distributor hold down clamp. Turn the distributor so that the ROTOR lines up with the number 1 terminal you just marked on the cap. Don't rush it, you can get it basically perfect, and remember, the cap will fit on ONLY ONE WAY, so make sure it is lined up as if it were to go on. Once the rotor is lined up with no1 terminal, then TIGHTEN the distributor hold down clamp WELL. It uses a 1/2" wrench, you can fit a hand down there after you remove the air cleaner, as well as a box wrench or something like that, rachet won't fit, and if it does won't tighten it good enough. Then replace the cap, and all the spark plugs and spark plug wires. DO NO HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE YET! Next, put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "Run" position for 30 seconds, then the to the "start" position for 30 seconds, then back to run for 30 more seconds. Once that is done turn the key to the "Lock" position. Then hook up the negative battery cable, start it up. If you were careful and did it slowly, the fuel sync will be about 0 now, and should be okay to run now, as long as the catalytic converter is either gone or is not clogged. That is the proper way to set it without a scantool. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-tuning-4.html

 

The MT2500 is nothing at all like the Modis. So the Modis instructions won't do you any good. The good news is that checking the fuel sync with the MT2500 is pretty simple and self-explanatory. I doubt you'll have any problem figuring it out on your own.

 

for the non dodge guys; does a fuel sync reset the fuel trim in the ecm?


what are you trying to fix?


if you want to check for exhaust restriction without a back pressure gauge a cheap $10 vacuum gauge works fine for a gasser engine. removing the o2 from the exhaust stream works also.

 

Thanks Tom A I will post again once it shows up.

primem- The PCM controls timing the cam sensor at the bottom of the distributor under the cap controls when the injectors fire in relation to when the valves are opening. That is the fuel sync on Dodge and I don't think anyone else does that. I don't know a lot about it yet.
My exhaust passed a vacuum test using the vac hoses at the brake booster and revving it up according to an ETCG video a while back so I left it alone. But recently I am focusing on it again I forget the exact reason anyway I smacked the CAT lightly with a rubber mallet and it runs better. I had taken the temp and it was hotter in front than back.
I'm considering using the gauge I have for compression checks in the O2 hole to see if it goes above 5psi. My Y pipe is pretty beat up too. Some moron before me beat the hell out of it to get at the tranny pan instead of doing it right.

 

It arrived today the box it is in marked Fragile was beat to hell. I took plenty of pictures before opening it. I'm too tired to mess with it and I have chores to get done but I hope to at least try it this weekend.

 

You were right Tom A. It was easy to figure out and there is a lot of other stuff there as well.
I checked the fuel sync which the dealer said was at -2. It was actually at -5 and went to -10 or better as it fluctuated. I got it set to stay mostly at +1 going up to +5 occasionally.
Then I reset IAC and all "learning" options on all systems it let me, I set to erase and relearn.
It no longer has the valve or lifter noise going up the big hill next to my house.
It no longer struggles to respond and sounds so much better.
It even did that thing where it drops RPMs while I am accelerating but it did not feel as bad and responded right away when I pressed the peddle down.

So I figure the CAT is probably my next step.

I say its worth it since the unit will also do OBDII if I get a newer truck or car.

 

.

 

Sweet! Glad to hear the scanner worked out and your truck is running better.