I have a 2003 Durango, just took a dump. Won't start. As soon as ig.switch is turned on and try to start trans selector on instrument cluster switches down the line from P, R, D, 2, 1 over and over and then shows no bus error code. Tried to reset computer by disconnecting bat. Checked connectors on computer, unplugged and replugged in. Don't have a clue what to do. New member.
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After installing new (reman) pcm still have no bus code. 2003 Durango with 4.7 engine. When key is turned on to start, trans selector indicator goes through positions over and over then engine light comes on and then no bus code at odometer. Also still shows original mileage as I used a rounded off mileage 252 miles lower than original. 123,252 old, 123,000 to the remanufacterer. Have already disconnected crank and cam sensors, nothing.
Does difference in mileage affect the outcome. What the heck.
Here is what you need to do. Start unplugging sensors one at a time. Start with the trans controller,then the ABS,TPS, Don't disconnect both cam and crank sensors at the same time. The last sensor you want to unplug is the cluster. NO BUS means a module or sensor is taking the down bus circuit and will not allow commuications with other modules.
After you do what mastertech said and if it didn't fix the problem, last is the cluster. Your cluster might be bad then if the PCM didn't fix it. Or a wiring issue. Does your D start now with the new PCM? Your mileage getting programed into it wrong I don't think would have anything to do with it, I heard the PCM compares it's miles to the clusters and uses the highest one. Do the cluster self-test, just hold down the trip reset button and while holding it down turn the key to on and the odometer display should show you some 3 digit 900s codes that might help pinpoint the problem.
we also had this solve the problem not too long ago
Originally Posted by Winsok
Wow, so my wife has been royally pissed cause i couldn't figure this out and she just thinks i messed it up cause i was "screwing around with something that i shouldn't be"
But i think i fixed it, it was just a fuse lol, trans pos ind fuse. I havnt got to drive it, but at least when i turn it on now, all the gauges are normal, there is no more no bus on the odomotor, like i said havnt gotten to drive it yet, but hopefully this solved the problem, cause everything seems to be acting normal.
OK, Tried: disconnecting trans controller, ABS, TPS, and then instrument cluster, still NO BUS. At a loss on what to do. Won't start, never would after NO BUS. Checked all fuses-good. Did the hold the trip odo and start, showed codes 920, 921, 960, and held on 999 until I shut the key off. Vehicle is parked where it wouldn't start in a pile of gravel, so I can't move the stupid thing. Darn thing has too many wires to trace, can't afford to take to a shop. Vehicle has been good until now.
Sounds like you have a problem with the CCD bus. I want to say on the newer models they switched from a two wire twisted pair to a single wire for the data network. I'm not entirely sure how to check for talk on the data wire but just test each end with a multimeter for shorts or open wires. All my CCD data wires go into a junction box that's part of the fuse panel on the dash. The wiring section in a factory service manual will deffinatley help you out greatly. It will tell you what wires go where and the color of them too.
Problem with no bus was the 20 amp square fuse #2 engine fuse in the power distribution center A14 fused B (+). Vehicle will now crank over but will not start. Engine light blinking. Shows no codes after clearing with on, off, on, off, on. Shows ABS on cluster, gauges work. Used both PCM's, one I purchased remanned and the original. Using ALLDATA download for info, but some tests require DRBIII tool. Any suggestions?
Well if you wanted to just go to the dealer and have them scan it with their DRBIII tool, that thing will pick up almost anything wrong.
The flashing check engine light means there's a serious problem and the engine will barely run or not run at all. Like when you're driving and you get a lot of bad misfires, the light will start flashing.
If your guages work now it seems you fixed the data bus and now it's just a matter of a sensor or bad wiring. Listen for the fuel pump priming when you turn the key on, then check for spark and check your cam and crank sensors, just go right down the line.
After finding out the fuse was blown(Engine #2 funky and expensive 20amp square fuse) and could crank but not start, I noticed that when I tried to start the Durango after sitting all day, it would try to start for a second then back to no start. I put a little gasoline into the throttle body and it would try to start. So I tested the fuel delivery system fuel pump relay 12v output- post 87, and believe it is the fuel pump module. I believe what happened is that the fuel pump shorted out and took out the A14 fused B(+) circuit(fuse) and then caused a no bus error code. The fuel pump relay is on that same circuit as the 12v A14 fused B(+) to the PCM. As soon as I get time I will drop the tank and check for power at the fuel pump module. Does this sound like a good plan? Any suggestions welcome, shortcuts, or better advice?
BTW- thanks for all the help up to this point!
Pulled the tank tonight and tested the fuel pump module connector for power, has power, hooked up the module by itself to the connector and no pump. Ground was good also at the connector. Definitely the pump. Will update when I get pump in Thurs. or Fri. However, never know if something else is wrong. Vehicle is having multiple problems after paying off the bank. Just replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends and steering rack and new tires. Tires still have nubs on them!
My 02 dodge dakota died the other day out of nowhere it started back and ran for a little bit then died again. Someone told me the transmission speed sensor so i changed it and the camshaft and still no luck please help it wont crank at all now all it does is turns over.......