Hi guys, i figured since im gonna be here a while, i made an actual account instead of going through my FB, as for those that dont remember me rebuilding my 2.5 engine and then doing all sorts of work to my dakota....
my Dakota sittin, pullin the engine:
Rebuilt Bottom end of 2.5:
Yesterday 9/17/13 Was NOT my day... a Tire nearly fell apart on the way home, i swapped out tires, and went back to my shop, my power steering pump blew up, Then my belt popped off, I left the truck running sitting for a second, and came back to it, drove off and it died, Come to find out, it was hott and my battery was dead, SO someone gave me a jump, i called the only person that could help, No answer, i didnt take notice that the radiator plug had come all the way out and dissapeared, WELL.... i cant sit somewhere or walk too far (im not going into why, but i cant), so i decided to keep on, Motor died out again after spittin smoke out the pipe, then i came to a hault, and This... VVV is the end result VVV
My dads betting the rings collapsed in 1 cylinder... we will see what i find when i pull it out..
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Last edited by Bigboi407; 09-18-2013 at 12:23 PM..
I have invested a lot of time into my 2.5 and she runs better than it did stock that's for sure
so what else have you done to the 2.5, I am buying .060" over pistons, i read up about the 4.0 TB a while ago, thank you for confirming my judgement in getting one soon, what else do you suggest? that kit you showed me is a bit too much, but the .060 over pistons run me $135, i suppose the rods in the kit are a different stroke than the original?
throw suggestions, im open to do whatever right now, i even wondered about bigger valves, i do want a new exhaust from front to back, so im gonna look up an exhaust manifold, see what i can find with that
The Cam.... is the 1 thing i did not change, if theres a better cam than stock, and not too $$$$ pricey, id prolly get it
I want to completely remove the useless port with the rubber plug on it as I'm wondering if the brass fitting is protruding into the manifold and causing air restriction/turbulence.
I have also wanted to completely remove the air temp sensor and move it into the air box. I know someone that has tried it and said it helped the high end of the engine most of the new engines have it in the air box like the 4.7 V8.
The reasoning behind it is the same as the useless brass fitting restriction/turbulence on that cylinder intake.
If you get the 4.0 throttle body you will need to open up the manifold I just used a round file if you put the 4.0 on the manifold and look down it you can see its restrictive.
Forget a cam they are no longer available but you can get the roller rockers that give you some lift look for Yella-Terra High Performance Roller Rockers I THINK that's the name.
In my pictures you see I removed the big ugly (S) air intake tube and used a straight silicone tube and the top of a (4.7 V8 air box lid) and the accordion air tube with a fitting to connect the thing.
The V8 air box lid is an exact fit replacement for the 2.5L lid letting you remove the restrictive big ugly (S) tube
The V8 lid I got at a junk yard I was lucky and it had the accordion tube on it still and it fits the air hat perfect an exact fit.
Your oil dip stick will need a little bending so its easy to get to now but take it easy and its not much of a bend in fact you realy don't need to if you don't want its just a little tight is all.
Removing this will get you better air flow but that Big ugly (S) air tube does have a purpose it quiets down the intake 4 banger noise so with it remove you do get a nosier engine but it makes your truck sound cool I think
A word of warning if you do do this you will need to modify your A/C compressor High side tubing by cutting and moving the High pressure sensor switch as its in the way not cheap to do some pic's on this mod you will also need to put two spacers under the air box to lift it just a little