my dad died last year and so i have his truck, but it needs repairs, from my understanding it needs rear brake lines replaced, a new power steering pump, and cab mounts/bolts

im looking for some information as to what a set of rear brake lines would cost and if theres a tutorial on replacing/bleeding them, also how much the power steering pump should cost and any information regarding the cab mounts and bolts... its my understanding you can drill out hocket pucks and use them for the bushings, but what size bolts am i going to need? its my understanding they are rusted and will need to come off so i will have to remove the old ones and jack up the cab enough to get the new bushings under it

and advice or info is much appreciated

 

the brakes are the most important issue right now.. so, if anyone has any information, advice, or know where i can find the information it would be appreciated

 

Do you have 4 wheel or rear wheel ABS?

You can get brake line, the metal line and the flexible line, from any auto parts store. Prices vary.

Bleeding can vary. Fluid is going to come out of the lines by gravity once you disconnect the existing. Lose enough fluid and you'll need a scan tool to bleed the system.

The power steering pump prices also vary. You might have good luck checking out a boneyard for one - with the pulley on.

Cab bushing, it may not need just the rubber. Usually by now the metal is rusting out and will need to be replaced. The bolts will likely be corroded in place. You're likely going to need some heat - at a minimum. Post some pics.

You can download the entire service manual here:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-download.html

 

Brake hardlines tend to have to be made as needed.

But before that, I'd be picking up the Factory Service Manual - Bishko ( www.autobooksbishko.com ) was the original publisher, but Ebay quite often has the paper and PDF versions for sale a lot less being used.

With that in hand, you can then tackle using something like http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00VVIQM34/ to run replacement hard lines (note: it's up to you, but it MIGHT be easier with the bed off the frame! That's how I would do it anyway). As to how to bleed, I'd start off with a good primer on brake system repair ( http://smile.amazon.com/Haynes-Autom...dp/156392112X/ is one such on the generic side; the FSM for your truck specifically).

I use a vacuum bleeder with a supply reservoir (specifically http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html with my air compressor) to bleed my brakes; however, there's other ways to do it (I use that kit because of the reservoir.)

If you do your own brakes, do NOT skimp on the flaring tool! Practice, practice, practice! I'm ordering this set http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00UZ9YYC6/ because it works well with the lines partially/fully installed; you also need a tubing cutter (picked mine up at Home Depot!)

For the rest - Power Steering Pump? I'd buy that from RockAuto probably; they show (for a 5.9; actual may vary depending on the motor you actually have!) reman'ed for $50 and down ($40 core); or brand new for about $112. A quick Google will turn up 5% discount codes all over the place for RockAuto.

Cab mounts - I'm replacing mine with poly ones from Energy Suspension ( www.energysuspensionparts.com is where I buy mine from; but that's just a retailer, there's other places also).

Everything you've mentioned so far is doable at the house, although the cab bushings will be a bit of an effort (need a good jack, and the time to do it carefully) and the brake line will be a pain (since they put the lines on BEFORE they put the cab and bed on; it'll flat make your Sunday School Lesson come out sideways feeding it through! *grins* )

Enjoy!

RwP

 

i really dont want to have to take the bed off right now since i only have a driveway for an apartment to work in at the time being, in fact getting this vehicle up and moving is the condition required for me to relocate to a place with a little more space available for me to do more in depth work... id like to go with pre-made brake lines but i will study up more on making my own later after i wake up

at some point though the bed is going to come off this truck, the wheel wells are rusted out and i dont think theres any hope to replace them.. thought about seeing if the tub of an M101 trailer would actually fit on this thing because if so, i could paint it up to match the cab and go that route.. but thats further on

not sure if it has ABS or not, but im fairly certain the front brakes are still working, i will drive it back to my house from where its stored on sunday, i can take more photos and a closer look then and check out the hard lines to the rear.. and im hoping i can drive it without power steering for the time being and get at it later

and i believe the metal is still good around the cab and just the bolts are starting to break from the lack of the rubber bushings which disintegrated years ago.. i will have to wait until i get to a new place where i can get a larger jack to jack the cab up and replace the bushings.. from what i seen in the photos the hockey puck idea should still work, but im going to need a source for new bolts

 

ok.. so ive been reading the repair manual for the 2000 dakota that 00DakDan posted and it seems like bleeding the brakes is easier than i thought since they can be bleed fairly easily at the caliper

and i found some pre-fit brake lines but theyre $350 and no way i'm going to pay that so it looks like im going to be making them myself afterall.. ralph, the amazon link you posted to the lines with the end pieces, would this work for the 2000 dakota? are those the proper sizes?

also, would i be able to rent a tube bender and flaring tool or am i better off buying them? im hoping this whole project can be done for under $100

and is there any procedure for removing the rear brake line without losing too much fluid?

 

Will those pieces fit a 2000 Dakota? Dunno for sure.

An article from another forum ( http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=212457 ) happens to mention that the fittings were 10mm and 12mm; and that the line was 3/16", and that it used bubble flares. This is a different tool than the one I linked to, although you CAN fake bubble flares with a double flare tool (here's a YouTube on how to do that: )

The bender you can rent; so far, I've found the rental flaring tools to be uniformly of poor design *grins*

And unfortunately, no; you'll lose ALL the fluid in it, plus depending on how fast you are, you'll lose quite a bit more as it drains down. Matter of fact, you may have to plan on a session at the dealer to get the ABS properly bled down afterwards.

RwP

 

If you have any cash at all to use call a few shops for what they may charge for the brake lines get about 4 estimates then ad about 15% to that as they always tack extra cost in.

See if you can afford it

as to getting it to the shop that could be an extra expense not worth it.

Look for mobile mechanics in craigs list some are good and most should be able to do it be very specific as to what you want from him. Tell him only replace the brake lines not a complete brake job.

Always worth a check

What exactly needs replacing post some good clear Pic's of the bad lines

 

the front brakes still work so i can drive it around town, i thought about giving it to a mechanic but im afraid they'll try to do a bunch of other **** i didnt ask them to being it needs more work done as ive mentioned and i know how mechanics work as they'll come up with some story about how i need a bunch of other crap i really dont so im not sure i can trust any mechanics around here well enough

if i could, id drive it there and tell them just to fix the rear brakes, any idea what that would cost? because for me to do it besides the tools for making the break line id also need some jack stands which is just another cost id have to tack on

 

You can get splice ins they just replace the roted section only as to how well they hold up I dont know but as a temp fix to get it back on the road.

I say as a temp fix ONLY

Then you can get a shop to fix the lines and drive it to them