Random Misfire + Cylinder 4 misfire.
#1
12-30-2009, 02:59 PM
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Random Misfire + Cylinder 4 misfire.
Alrighty guys here is a tricky one, I have 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 w/ the 5.9L 360. Mods: K&N, Jet Performance Chip stage 2.
Currently she blows a check engine code for random misfire and cylinder four misfire.
Replaced (to the present time): Cap, Rotor, All plugs (with stock Champion plugs), All plug wires. Replaced Fuel Injector on that cylinder. Wires are not touching if that counts. I've seafoamed it and dumped fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank @ half full. Still does it. When its cold she runs fine, but when she warms up and i stop in Drive/Neutral at a stop sign the engine will shake a bit (I can feel it in the steering wheel, like the whole truck is shakin' a bit.) But when i am driving and in motion 10 mph+ i do not feel or notice this. Makes my K&N vibrate and bounce all over too. I again only notice it in P/D/N and at a stop not while in motion. Did a compression test on that cylinder and got 100 lbs. I know my plenum is on the way out but i doubt that would cause a misfire? (Fuel pressure is good and fuel pump is good, fuel rails are good).
I appreciate all the opinions/advise!
DodgeRAmPower
Currently she blows a check engine code for random misfire and cylinder four misfire.
Replaced (to the present time): Cap, Rotor, All plugs (with stock Champion plugs), All plug wires. Replaced Fuel Injector on that cylinder. Wires are not touching if that counts. I've seafoamed it and dumped fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank @ half full. Still does it. When its cold she runs fine, but when she warms up and i stop in Drive/Neutral at a stop sign the engine will shake a bit (I can feel it in the steering wheel, like the whole truck is shakin' a bit.) But when i am driving and in motion 10 mph+ i do not feel or notice this. Makes my K&N vibrate and bounce all over too. I again only notice it in P/D/N and at a stop not while in motion. Did a compression test on that cylinder and got 100 lbs. I know my plenum is on the way out but i doubt that would cause a misfire? (Fuel pressure is good and fuel pump is good, fuel rails are good).
I appreciate all the opinions/advise!
DodgeRAmPower
#2
12-30-2009, 04:17 PM
Have you rewired you wires to the TSB and, what wires are you running?
Wire it to this and then test:http://autorepair.about.com/cs/faqs/l/bl654h.htm
This usually solves the problems. However, if after you do this and you're still seeing the same thing it could be a cracked head. These heads are notorious for dry cracks. Mine is spent on No 8. New heads are en route. But, it's most likely an issue with your ignition wires. Keep No 4 away from No 8. Those two were really problematic as was 5 and 7 on the odd bank.
You could have a sticking exhaust valve, bad / cracked valve, even a manifold leak around the No 4 would cause this as well. If it were large enough, it would allow cold air to be drawn from the leak through the open exhaust valve into the open intake valve thus leaning out the mix thus throwing a misfire code.
Check for leaks at the exhaust manifold as well. In some cases, if cold air is drawn across a hot e-valve, it ends up cracking the valve.
Chris
Wire it to this and then test:http://autorepair.about.com/cs/faqs/l/bl654h.htm
This usually solves the problems. However, if after you do this and you're still seeing the same thing it could be a cracked head. These heads are notorious for dry cracks. Mine is spent on No 8. New heads are en route. But, it's most likely an issue with your ignition wires. Keep No 4 away from No 8. Those two were really problematic as was 5 and 7 on the odd bank.
You could have a sticking exhaust valve, bad / cracked valve, even a manifold leak around the No 4 would cause this as well. If it were large enough, it would allow cold air to be drawn from the leak through the open exhaust valve into the open intake valve thus leaning out the mix thus throwing a misfire code.
Check for leaks at the exhaust manifold as well. In some cases, if cold air is drawn across a hot e-valve, it ends up cracking the valve.
Chris
Last edited by cmckenna; 12-30-2009 at 04:19 PM. Reason: typos
#3
01-02-2010, 12:35 AM
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Dieing Ram..
Wires are ran to TSB and i'm running Autolite Professional Series Wire set from AdvanceAuto. No wires are touching not even 5 or 7 or 4 and 8. The exhaust valve is not stuck/sticking (doesn't sound like it is), valve sounds fine when using a piece of tube to listen for it, manifold is solid, did a seafoam run through the intake (before), no leaks through the manifold. Again i'm no mechanic by trade, but i believe my plenum (Excessive oil consumption, lack of top end power, bad gas mileage..) is got to the point where it is allowing oil to seap through into cylinder 4 possibly causing a misfire? I've been told a plenum-leak could do that. I can, when i get some money around..buy a hughes kit and get a new thermostat, and see if that fixes the problem? or am i just totally wrong? I really love this truck to death and would be heartbroken to sell it. Should I even be driving it? I don't even know if i'm doing damage to drive it back and forth to work..but it is my only way to work...
p.s. She is running RICH..like smell of raw gas type of deal..and yes my cat is gutted.. Maybe a bad oxygen sensor? I really hope its something more simply than a burnt valve or exhaust valve, Hughes plenum kit isn't too bad price wise/labor but those other components can start to get labor/maybe part intensive (money-wise). I just don't have that kind of money right now.
p.s.s. When I really give her a good beating (you know..you gotta clean that carbon out
) type of deals..she runs smooth at idle after..for a few minutes and then SLOWLY starts to slighty misfire/miss and then gradually gets to where the air-intake is shaking a bit (noticably loud and the steering wheel is vibrating a bit)..a noticable misfire by this time. Just trying to give you as much information as I can..
Thanks again,
I appreciate the advice and opinions.
DodgeRamPower
p.s. She is running RICH..like smell of raw gas type of deal..and yes my cat is gutted.. Maybe a bad oxygen sensor? I really hope its something more simply than a burnt valve or exhaust valve, Hughes plenum kit isn't too bad price wise/labor but those other components can start to get labor/maybe part intensive (money-wise). I just don't have that kind of money right now.
p.s.s. When I really give her a good beating (you know..you gotta clean that carbon out
) type of deals..she runs smooth at idle after..for a few minutes and then SLOWLY starts to slighty misfire/miss and then gradually gets to where the air-intake is shaking a bit (noticably loud and the steering wheel is vibrating a bit)..a noticable misfire by this time. Just trying to give you as much information as I can..Thanks again,
I appreciate the advice and opinions.
DodgeRamPower
Last edited by DodgeRAmPower; 01-02-2010 at 12:43 AM. Reason: More information. Trying not to overpost.
#4
01-02-2010, 03:03 AM
Well, that's a lot more to go on. Ok, if you've got a blown plenum, yes, it will cause a misfire due to fouled plugs and excess air being sucked in but, here's the thing; it would cause it to run LEAN- not rich. You may think it's running rich because you can smell raw gas, but, it's most likely running lean. I will explain why this is so a few paragraphs down. *
Now, those wires you have on there. How far apart at the boot are the wires? Are they > than one inch or < one inch? This is where induction crossfire comes from the most- right at the top of the boot so, if your plug wires at the plug cross or are less than one inch in proximity, they need to be adjusted to a min of an inch apart to avoid induction crossfire and, with those wires, I wouldn't be surprised one bit to learn that the dielectric spec is low rated. This means that it's ability to prevent leakage is not adequate. But, for now, let's just focus and keep going.
Now, if this is already taken care of, disregard the above but, if your within one half inch of another wire, it must be adjusted- especially with those wires.
Ok, so, for the sake of argument, let's just assume that your truck does have a bad plenum leak and that the valve train is fine. So, in order to support this theory, we need to test it.
Process:
-remove both the PCV and breather filter from the valve covers
-place your hands over both holes (with the engine running)
If you feel vacuum at the PCV on the palm of your hand, you've got a vac leak for sure at the plenum.
In addition to that, the oil that is being drawn into the combustion chamber can attribute to fouled plugs thus compounding the misfire condition.
This oil also fouls out the O2 sensor thus inducing error at the PCM, O2 sensor input thus affecting the A/F ratio.
* What can happen to induce that raw gas smell is this; when you have a vacuum leak, more air flows in than it should thus the A/F mix has a higher amount of oxygen than normal. In turn, the PCM receives a lower-than-normal voltage (due to the higher O2 content) at the PCM-O2 sensor input. As a result, the program compensates by changing the fuel amounts to compensate for this lean running condition. To compound the situation, if the plugs are fouled with oil, the spark is reduced or, worst case, non existent thus the mix doesn't burn thus the reason why you smell raw gas fumes. It may not be running rich you see, but, just smells like it is. In order to determine for sure, you would have to check the A/F ratio with a good scan tool.
Let me ask this if I may:
What condition are the plugs in now? Are they wet and oily looking in appearance? Or, are they dry and sooty in appearance?
Have you measured vac at the intake by any chance?
PS: when you beat on it, what's most likely happening is that the residue on the plugs is burning off thus allowing it to fire on all cylinders. And, also the reason why in a short period, it worsens again. I am not even going to tell you to run a hotter plug so as to burn that off consistently but, that is workaround for this issue and, if your tight on money and time, this is one thing that does work- run a hotter plug. However, this is not a fix and, under certain climate conditions, you may pre-detonate which is far worse on the engine components vs. not-firing at all. But, this will only occur in hot environmental conditions. It should be fine throughout the winter to get through.
If I may ask, what was the process that you used to check your valve train with a hose? There's a great method to check by ear that involves disabling the ignition, placing the hose way up into the exhaust pipe and rotating the engine in sequential steps while listening for certain things.
If you performed the above, then we can most likely rule out that your valve train is bad or you've got a cracked valve seat / valve / weak valve springs, etc etc.
Is this an intermittent problem or a constant issue?
Chris
Now, those wires you have on there. How far apart at the boot are the wires? Are they > than one inch or < one inch? This is where induction crossfire comes from the most- right at the top of the boot so, if your plug wires at the plug cross or are less than one inch in proximity, they need to be adjusted to a min of an inch apart to avoid induction crossfire and, with those wires, I wouldn't be surprised one bit to learn that the dielectric spec is low rated. This means that it's ability to prevent leakage is not adequate. But, for now, let's just focus and keep going.
Now, if this is already taken care of, disregard the above but, if your within one half inch of another wire, it must be adjusted- especially with those wires.
Ok, so, for the sake of argument, let's just assume that your truck does have a bad plenum leak and that the valve train is fine. So, in order to support this theory, we need to test it.
Process:
-remove both the PCV and breather filter from the valve covers
-place your hands over both holes (with the engine running)
If you feel vacuum at the PCV on the palm of your hand, you've got a vac leak for sure at the plenum.
In addition to that, the oil that is being drawn into the combustion chamber can attribute to fouled plugs thus compounding the misfire condition.
This oil also fouls out the O2 sensor thus inducing error at the PCM, O2 sensor input thus affecting the A/F ratio.
* What can happen to induce that raw gas smell is this; when you have a vacuum leak, more air flows in than it should thus the A/F mix has a higher amount of oxygen than normal. In turn, the PCM receives a lower-than-normal voltage (due to the higher O2 content) at the PCM-O2 sensor input. As a result, the program compensates by changing the fuel amounts to compensate for this lean running condition. To compound the situation, if the plugs are fouled with oil, the spark is reduced or, worst case, non existent thus the mix doesn't burn thus the reason why you smell raw gas fumes. It may not be running rich you see, but, just smells like it is. In order to determine for sure, you would have to check the A/F ratio with a good scan tool.
Let me ask this if I may:
What condition are the plugs in now? Are they wet and oily looking in appearance? Or, are they dry and sooty in appearance?
Have you measured vac at the intake by any chance?
PS: when you beat on it, what's most likely happening is that the residue on the plugs is burning off thus allowing it to fire on all cylinders. And, also the reason why in a short period, it worsens again. I am not even going to tell you to run a hotter plug so as to burn that off consistently but, that is workaround for this issue and, if your tight on money and time, this is one thing that does work- run a hotter plug. However, this is not a fix and, under certain climate conditions, you may pre-detonate which is far worse on the engine components vs. not-firing at all. But, this will only occur in hot environmental conditions. It should be fine throughout the winter to get through.
If I may ask, what was the process that you used to check your valve train with a hose? There's a great method to check by ear that involves disabling the ignition, placing the hose way up into the exhaust pipe and rotating the engine in sequential steps while listening for certain things.
If you performed the above, then we can most likely rule out that your valve train is bad or you've got a cracked valve seat / valve / weak valve springs, etc etc.
Is this an intermittent problem or a constant issue?
Chris
Last edited by cmckenna; 01-02-2010 at 03:32 AM. Reason: Clarity
#5
01-02-2010, 02:43 PM
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Dieing Ram..
The wires at the boots are atleast an inch apart, I was aware when i installed cap/rotor, plugs n wires that if you get the wires to close they will crossfire. I haven't had the chance to take the air breather/pcv off to do the check yet. Plugs are brand spankin' new stock champs, but when i removed (slightly newer autolite double platinums) the had oil on them and when the cat was plugged before they were solid white at the tip. (more towards the back around 6,8 and 5, 7. I had the mechanic check out the valve/exhaust valve before when I had it in the garage and is confirmed good. This is a constant issue, doesn't go away, but it started suddenly.. I understand now that the truck is running lean from what you tell me sounds like you hit it on the head with a hammer. I will be getting a Hughes plenum kit/ 180 degree thermo/ gaskets needed to do the plenum job and two oxygen sensors and will have my engine/tranny specialist goto work on that as soon as i get some dough. (I will have it looked at professionally before i have that done, so i won't blow money..and make sure that is definately the problem.)
I hope this solves the problem, I really do..
Thanks for the advice and opinions.
DodgeRamPower
I hope this solves the problem, I really do..
Thanks for the advice and opinions.
DodgeRamPower
#6
01-02-2010, 03:05 PM
In regards to your wires, I am convinced that there's no issue there now.
Don't run platinum plugs. Those are not the ones to run in Dodge trucks. Due to the platinum material and, depending on whether or not those plugs use solid platinum electrodes or welded on electrode tipped, it will run hotter as platinum can't dissipate the thermal load as quickly as Cu. What ends up happening is you get a hotter running plug which has a high probability of inducing premature detonation and misfires. This is very damaging to engine components as I'm sure your aware.
Now, I don't like Champion plugs. They have a really bad rap in the auto community due to many quality control issues and many anomalies associated with Champions. If going with stock OEM rated plugs I prefer NGK over Autolite and Champion. If forced to go with the latter two, I prefer Autos.
The reason why your plugs were solid white at the tip was due to the following:
When your CAT was clogged, the exhaust heat had no where to go and backed up into the manifold thus heating up your spark plugs way beyond their rated operational range thus burning off ALL deposits and heat damaging the metal. The rears fry first so as the reason why those cyls you mentioned were worse than the others.
It may have also over heated your exhaust valves as well. Have you run a leak down test to verify that the valves are in fact, ok? You may want to have him run a scope to take a look at the valves. Worse case scenario is possible thermal damage to the valves. Again, this usually happens in the rear cylinders.
CM
Don't run platinum plugs. Those are not the ones to run in Dodge trucks. Due to the platinum material and, depending on whether or not those plugs use solid platinum electrodes or welded on electrode tipped, it will run hotter as platinum can't dissipate the thermal load as quickly as Cu. What ends up happening is you get a hotter running plug which has a high probability of inducing premature detonation and misfires. This is very damaging to engine components as I'm sure your aware.
Now, I don't like Champion plugs. They have a really bad rap in the auto community due to many quality control issues and many anomalies associated with Champions. If going with stock OEM rated plugs I prefer NGK over Autolite and Champion. If forced to go with the latter two, I prefer Autos.
The reason why your plugs were solid white at the tip was due to the following:
When your CAT was clogged, the exhaust heat had no where to go and backed up into the manifold thus heating up your spark plugs way beyond their rated operational range thus burning off ALL deposits and heat damaging the metal. The rears fry first so as the reason why those cyls you mentioned were worse than the others.
It may have also over heated your exhaust valves as well. Have you run a leak down test to verify that the valves are in fact, ok? You may want to have him run a scope to take a look at the valves. Worse case scenario is possible thermal damage to the valves. Again, this usually happens in the rear cylinders.
CM
Last edited by cmckenna; 01-02-2010 at 03:12 PM. Reason: Possible valve damage
#7
01-14-2010, 12:31 AM
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Update..Breathing new life into the Ram.
Well it's been awhile. I just (as of 01-13-10) had put in:
*Hughes Reinforcement Plenum kit (with gasket and bolts)
*Intake gaskets + bolts
*New Thermostat @ 180 degrees (Still getting used to it being down 20 degrees from 200 LOL)
*Tryed to put on a shorter belt to skip the AC compressor (on its way out)..when clutch is enabled and at around..0-5 degrees farenheight (weather/frigid cold) it whines pretty good..but when warm it goes away..but the gatorbelt from autozone (without AC) for 5.9L doesn't fit..so I returned it. So i unplugged the AC compressor for now..see if that cures that.
Problems fixed so far: Exhaust idle is much much better, A lot quieter! and i mean a lot, I turned the truck over and was like..this even turned on? thats how loud it was..even with a gutted cat its still not as loud as pre-plenum. Mechanic said that the plenum was completely shot, and started leaking oil on the PASSENGER side starting at cylinder 8 (ahaha not cylinder 4..). I STILL have a misfire on cylinder 4, but no more Random misfires (thank god, one step somewhere after a $400 investment).. I can hear the misfire under heavy load (flooring it..like top gun 8) )..so i'm trying the cheaper trick in a bottle of seafoam..i dumped 3/4 in the intake..and a 1/4 in the gas tank..waited 20 mins or so and started her back up and floored the **** out of her till i couldn't smell the smell produced when using a fuel injector cleaner in the intake kind of smell..(Carbon deposits being released/cleaned?), to normal exhaust smell..and I disconnected the battery for tonight to clear the codes (I hope).
On a side-note: Truck doesn't idle like a diesel anymore (I wish it was a Cummin's, shake like a machine gun either. All pretty much normalized except for the slight cylinder 4 misfire. (All caused by a damned plenum gasket..gah DODGE.)
Tomorrow (01-14-10):
I'm going to get an oil change (Seafoam + oil change pretty much required after a plenum job)..going to use 4 quarts of standard oil and a quart of lucas oil stabilzer for good measure.
Hopefully..it was only gunk or crap on the spark plug and I will have no misfires in the morning! *Knock on wood* if not..i'm pulling the plug for that cylinder and checking it out..and also checking the plug wires for cross-fire/talk while i'm at it...then if that don't fix it i'm pretty much throwing in the towel...
Things I haven't replaced yet:
*Both o2 sensors (Mechanic says..if the computer doesn't give an error for o2 sensors why bother replacing?) I have to agree with him..because its $140-160 dollars + labor i don't have and I don't think those o2 sensors could cause a Single cylinder misfire. (I'll be damned if it is).
*Ignition coil (again i've yet to see a single misfire from a bad coil..maybe multiple misfires.)
*(Mechanic said valves looked beautiful and overall the internals of the engine looked great for almost 119k
)*
Things I hope to see when the truck is normalized again:
*Better gas mileage; I was utilizing 7 gallons of gas in 2 days with Extremely light driving. (i'm talking like..30 miles a day if that). In her prime i saw 15-16 mpg's.
*No oil consumption
*Better overall performance in passing and hill climbing..i remember the day I could climb a nice 45 degree hill at 2 grand @ around 60-65 mph.
Thats all i got for now...only got a couple hours of sleep last night..off to bed for now.
Thanks for advice/opinions in advanced,
DodgeRAmPower
*Hughes Reinforcement Plenum kit (with gasket and bolts)
*Intake gaskets + bolts
*New Thermostat @ 180 degrees (Still getting used to it being down 20 degrees from 200 LOL)
*Tryed to put on a shorter belt to skip the AC compressor (on its way out)..when clutch is enabled and at around..0-5 degrees farenheight (weather/frigid cold) it whines pretty good..but when warm it goes away..but the gatorbelt from autozone (without AC) for 5.9L doesn't fit..so I returned it. So i unplugged the AC compressor for now..see if that cures that.
Problems fixed so far: Exhaust idle is much much better, A lot quieter! and i mean a lot, I turned the truck over and was like..this even turned on? thats how loud it was..even with a gutted cat its still not as loud as pre-plenum. Mechanic said that the plenum was completely shot, and started leaking oil on the PASSENGER side starting at cylinder 8 (ahaha not cylinder 4..). I STILL have a misfire on cylinder 4, but no more Random misfires (thank god, one step somewhere after a $400 investment).. I can hear the misfire under heavy load (flooring it..like top gun 8) )..so i'm trying the cheaper trick in a bottle of seafoam..i dumped 3/4 in the intake..and a 1/4 in the gas tank..waited 20 mins or so and started her back up and floored the **** out of her till i couldn't smell the smell produced when using a fuel injector cleaner in the intake kind of smell..(Carbon deposits being released/cleaned?), to normal exhaust smell..and I disconnected the battery for tonight to clear the codes (I hope).
On a side-note: Truck doesn't idle like a diesel anymore (I wish it was a Cummin's
, shake like a machine gun either. All pretty much normalized except for the slight cylinder 4 misfire. (All caused by a damned plenum gasket..gah DODGE.)Tomorrow (01-14-10):
I'm going to get an oil change (Seafoam + oil change pretty much required after a plenum job)..going to use 4 quarts of standard oil and a quart of lucas oil stabilzer for good measure.
Hopefully..it was only gunk or crap on the spark plug and I will have no misfires in the morning! *Knock on wood* if not..i'm pulling the plug for that cylinder and checking it out..and also checking the plug wires for cross-fire/talk while i'm at it...then if that don't fix it i'm pretty much throwing in the towel...
Things I haven't replaced yet:
*Both o2 sensors (Mechanic says..if the computer doesn't give an error for o2 sensors why bother replacing?) I have to agree with him..because its $140-160 dollars + labor i don't have and I don't think those o2 sensors could cause a Single cylinder misfire. (I'll be damned if it is).
*Ignition coil (again i've yet to see a single misfire from a bad coil..maybe multiple misfires.)
*(Mechanic said valves looked beautiful and overall the internals of the engine looked great for almost 119k
)*Things I hope to see when the truck is normalized again:
*Better gas mileage; I was utilizing 7 gallons of gas in 2 days with Extremely light driving. (i'm talking like..30 miles a day if that). In her prime i saw 15-16 mpg's.
*No oil consumption
*Better overall performance in passing and hill climbing..i remember the day I could climb a nice 45 degree hill at 2 grand @ around 60-65 mph.
Thats all i got for now...only got a couple hours of sleep last night..off to bed for now.
Thanks for advice/opinions in advanced
,DodgeRAmPower
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#8
01-14-2010, 05:50 PM
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Ram llives another day.
cmckenna I would like to personally thank you for all your help. You were a big help and i am very thankful that you had the patience to help me with my problems. I also would like to thank DodgeForum for existing and I am a proud Member. I will always return to this site because I know i can get the correct answers..pretty much the first time right off the bat.
Problem: Bad plenum gasket (Especially on the passenger side of the motor was missing 2-3 inches of gasket).
Parts to fix problem: Hughes Plenum Reinforcement kit (w/ bolts and goodies). Intake Gasket kit w/ bolts. Thermostat (180 degrees)..while your down there if you haven't replaced your thermostat..you might as well.
Side problem: Still need to get a "fake pulley" and remove my ac pump because the bearings are on the way out..When it gets real cold (0 to 5 degree frigid weather) it whines with AC clutch on it is worse..but with it unplugged i can faintly hear it. Learned a lesson that "Without AC belts..do not work on a Ram with AC" two fold. Sometime when i get the money i will buy a new belt and fake pully to fill that AC Pump's spot.
Thats all for now. Thanks!
DodgeRamPower
Problem: Bad plenum gasket (Especially on the passenger side of the motor was missing 2-3 inches of gasket).
Parts to fix problem: Hughes Plenum Reinforcement kit (w/ bolts and goodies). Intake Gasket kit w/ bolts. Thermostat (180 degrees)..while your down there if you haven't replaced your thermostat..you might as well.
Side problem: Still need to get a "fake pulley" and remove my ac pump because the bearings are on the way out..When it gets real cold (0 to 5 degree frigid weather) it whines with AC clutch on it is worse..but with it unplugged i can faintly hear it. Learned a lesson that "Without AC belts..do not work on a Ram with AC" two fold. Sometime when i get the money i will buy a new belt and fake pully to fill that AC Pump's spot.
Thats all for now. Thanks!
DodgeRamPower
#9
11-27-2011, 11:31 AM
multi cylinder misfire for cylinders 3,4,and 7
i have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 2 wheel drive with the 5.2 318 v-8 and have a multi cylinder misfire...i replaced all plugs , wires , pick up coil ,pulled and cleaned fuel rails , and injectors. runs fine at idle but has no power with acceleration.not sure how to check cataylic converter but seems to exaust fine out tail pipe..what else can i do to resolve this issue
#10
11-27-2011, 11:59 AM
Have you fixed the plenum yet? What about cap and rotor? Pick up coil in the distributor has nothing to do with ignition. (neat huh?) That's the cam position sensor, used for fuel sync only. (injector timing)
Pull the front O2 sensor, and take the truck for a ride, see if it drives any better.
Pull the front O2 sensor, and take the truck for a ride, see if it drives any better.