My dad did a Holley 850cfm double pumper carb swap and Edelbrock air gap on his Stroked 408.
But.... he put it in his 66 Coronet.
So no help there.

 

Because it isn't about JUST max lift the springs will support. Seat pressure, and open pressure also play a role. Spring needs to be strong enough to keep the lifter on the cam when the valve is closing, but, not so stiff as to rob an undue amount of power to open it.

 

The stock springs are barely good enough for the stock cam, no way would I run any more cam without a spring upgrade.


My Dakota has a carbed 408 in it, but it also has a 727 with a reverse pattern manual valve body...I love, LOVE the carb on the Dakota, but it's a strip only trailer queen. Runs a lot better than it did with the SCT tuned EFI.


More specs:
Indy 360 intake manifold
Pro Systems Holly 985HP Carb
Solid roller .640 lift cam, MRL solid roller lifters,
PAC springs: 250lbs on the seat, 650lbs over the nose.
Eagle Forged rotating assembly, JE Pistons
Maxed out Eddy Heads cut .030
11.05:1 compression
Custom 2" to 3.5" Long Tubes.
Pump Gas.

 

Why would I need the tps to tell the computer anything? As long as the throttle cable is pulling on the throttle it'll run, correct? I have complete control of mixture and whatnot. Not trying to be a smart *** or anything, cause I am looking for help but why would I need the tps?

And for the funny guys, I do have a fuel efficient car to drive to school and to work. But it's pretty hard to sell firewood in the winter, haul ****, go hunting, etc in a 1995 Infiniti g20. My truck has been sittin for the last 2 months getting a complete makeover, fixed body work, lift, tires and wheels, gears, locker, and now the motor is almost done.

Yeah I'm 18 and just starting college, you guys probably have the idea of mommy and daddy funded but that's not how it is. I work my dick in the ground for everything I have, and stuff gets done over the summer when I'm working 60-70 hours a week as a concrete laborer and then cutting and selling firewood all winter. Sorry for the rant but I know how people are and I know how some people work. I'm just looking for some help on how to get this done because I like when I can control what my truck does, not a computer and some guy that programs the tuner telling the computer what to do.

 

You are asking questions and providing a rationale, which is much more than others. Keep at it whipper-snapper. <-- That is a compliment here.

I agree with the sentiment of reducing reliance on a computer, especially compared to cars in the last 5+ years...?

The assumption that you didn't have a more gas friendly car has been squashed now.

I didn't catch this and not wanting to assume myself, but are you using the original PCM? If you are, then that is what Wildman (I think) is referring to. I mean, what is taking control of the fuel management...?


Also....grind dick in the ground is TMI...

Lastly....

 

Kids will be kids. When he is done with this truck it will be worth its weight in scrap value.

 

This song is for you.

 

I believe aferrol2 did a carb swap. I think that's his name...

 

As long as your new intake fits the Magnum motor ? If that's what you using ?
Anyway... Lower left line at front runs your vacuum distributer. No vac at idle port. Building vac as rpm increases, decreases under extra load.
You have to remove the fuel pump, and run a lower pressure unit to key on power, or spend some cash on a regulator, and wire the factory pump. If going manual pump, remove the in tank unit. Most gauges will need different sensors, and your speedometer may also need to be re configured.
Ignition is the simplest. Any old pre 88 ram gets you all the goodies, and once all tied in it only needs crank power, key on power, and ground. Ballast / dizy/ coil / ECM, all in with 5 wires. you best grab the peddle and cable for the carb style truck also.. Save a lot of hassle.
Nothing of your electrical will be used really. Charging circuit as well will need to be back dated to some extent. Can be done with great power, and capable of all out performance. But drivability, and hassle involved ?
I'm kinda with Wildman4x4nut.... You going backwards, but forward in time and money lost. I can't say not to do it, as iv don't some real silly stuff just to see if I could.
I can help with carb plumbing, and stand alone ignition wiring if you really want to go this way.

 

From RaceMagnum.com

Fuel system. 40-50 psi of EFI fuel pressure and carbs do not work together. You can yank the stock tank and run a fuel cell with an electric pump and regulator for the carb, and do it old school. You can also modify the stock tank, make a dummy fuel pump mount with a pickup and an external electric pump, or keep the in tank EFI pump and use an Aeromotive EFI to CARB regulator. You will have to make some fittings to attach factory efi line to pump though.

Alternator. With a stock Magnum alternator use a 69 and later Mopar voltage regulator on firewall, run the stock Magnum blue and green wires to the blue and green wires on the voltage regulator, and splice off the blue wire to a 12 volt keyed source. Thats it. Yes, its that simple. Same goes for an LA alternator or big block alternator. Generally, people will keep the stock fuse/relay box in the truck. If this is the case, run the splice to the 16 gauge dark green/orange wire going to ASD relay in fuse/relay box.

Starting. On a stock Dakota with either an auto or manual trans, there is a starter relay. It operates through the clutch switch or trans range sensor and sends a ground signal to PCM to allow cranking of engine. Without a PCM, the truck wont crank. We need to run the 18 gauge brown/yellow wire from starter relay to ground. The truck will now turn over.

Transmission: This is up to you. A 904 or 727, a 46RE with a manual valve body, you will still have OD, or a manual trans. Depending on what you want will determine the crossmember. Also keep in mind the A518 OD trans can go behind the small block and is essentially a 904 with OD on its tail end. The stock auto shifter linkage should hook up with no problem or use a floor shifter. If going manual trans, you can get the pedal assembly from a manual trans Ram, use the stock hydraulic master cylinder, and have a line made to use a hydraulic slave cylinder as sold by other vendors. Keep in mind, the NV3500 5 speed is weak. A TKO500, TKO600, or T-56 can also be swapped in with a kit from Darkhorse Performance