There is another thread on roof racks for the gen 3 Durango R/T that goes on for several pages. Rather than add to that thread, I thought I’d start a new thread summarizing all the information, plus add some new info.

The R/T does not come with the factory Durango roof rack and the roof isn’t drilled for the rack if you order it. If you do order it, the Dodge dealer will not install it for you. So, you are pretty much stuck buying an aftermarket roof rack. The Dodge parts department will sell you the Thule rack with Aeroblade load bars for just over $500. I bought mine through eTrailer.com and saved $100.

Following the recommended installation instructions puts the rack far forward on the vehicle. Some of this cannot be avoided because the roof rack uses the door openings to secure the rack. However, the forward position isn’t aesthetically pleasing and if you have a sunroof, you’ll see the rack from your peripheral vision and it’s distracting. See the first picture.

The second thing you’ll notice about the Thule rack is the cross bars will extend 3 inches on either side past the end of the mounts. The rack for the Durango comes with 60-inch crossbars (59 inches of aluminum bar, plus 1 inch for plastic end caps). The next size down is a 53-inch bar that unfortunately is ½ - 1 inch too short for the Durango. See the second picture.

Disclaimer: Some of the modifications I’m about to describe will void your Thule warranty, so don’t do them if you are concerned about warranty coverage. When I installed my rack, I moved the mounting position 7 inches further back than the Thule instructions called for. This got the front load bar out of my vision through the sunroof and also looked better on the vehicle. The rack fit fine at this location.

The next modification I made was to cut the front and back bars to a more custom length. If you are going to put two cargo boxes or ski racks side by side on the rack, don’t cut the bars, as you’ll need the extra width. I cut the front bar so the aluminum (less end caps) measured 53 inches. Only cut one side and you’ll have to decide whether to cut the side with the Thule branding or the bare side. Once cut, put the footpads on at each end and fine tune so they are 46 3/8 inches apart per the instructions. The plastic end cap has a little tab that fits into a cut-out in the underside of the bar. On the side you cut off, this cut-out will no longer be there. The end caps fit fairly snug to begin with, but I used a little silicon caulk on the inside lip of the end cap when I re-installed it, then wiped off the excess. This will further secure the end cap without the tab, but it will still be removable if you need to take it off in the future. The front bar is ready to put on the vehicle. Again, I have mine set 17 ¾ inch back from the windshield instead of the recommended 10 ¾ inch.

The rear load bar was just a touch trickier because the mounting width of the footpads seemed to be incorrect in the instructions. They say to mount the footpads 46 ½ inches apart. When I did this, the foot pads didn’t sit on the roof where they were supposed to. I found 45 ½ inches fit the best. Using that width, I cut the back bar to 52 ¼ inches (measuring just the aluminum bar without end caps). You can confirm this width before cutting by moving the foot pad all the way to the end on one side of the bar, then setting the width on the other side (you’ll have 6 - 7 inches of bar overhang on the other side), then install it to make sure the width is correct. From there, you can mark where to cut the bar. Once cut, put on the foot pads, plastic end caps (siliconing the one on the side that was cut) and install on the vehicle per instructions at 29 ½ inches behind the front bar. Since the front bar is set 7 inches further back than recommended, this will also put the back bar 7 inches further back.

When all done, your installation will look like the third and fourth pictures. Note the cargo box is in a better location due to the bars being moved further back.

As for road noise, there is none that I could discern up to 70 mph with just the rack on the car (no cargo box). With the sunroof in vent position, there is also no increase in wind noise. With the sunroof open, it is noisier with the rack on than off. This is a great rack, functional and quiet.

I hope this is helpful for those looking for a more customized roof rack solution for their R/Ts.

 

looks good and nice write up. looks much better mounted back further IMO

 

Thanks V for Victory. Hey, I'm new to the forum. How do you add a picture of your vehicle and description automatically at the end of your posts?

 

That is the one thing I wish the kept on the RT. I roof rack! It looks better with a rack and it is functional. I just don't understand why you can't get one with a roof rack!

The Thule looks good on your ride Red Rhino!

To put a picture of your ride at the bottom co to the "User CP" at the top left of the page and from there you can make all kinds of changes. What comes up at the bottom is your signature. From there you can upload a picture and add things to your signature.

Welcome to the forum!

 

Thanks, rvarner!

 

Yeah the roof rack is the only thing holding me back from and RT this year. Only thing I am debating is if the trailer hitch racks are any good, might be better MPG with it in the back too, anyone used one of those on the Durango?

 

I had a set blow off my car this summer. Had been using them for years. I stopped to get gas and checked them before I got going like I always do. 45 minutes down the highway they went flying. When pulled them out of the highway all the clamps were still shut and locked. Still don't know how it happened. Didn't even scratch the car. Any way the only reason I didn't get an RT is because it doesn't have factory racks. Put RT suspension on a hemi citadel instead. Wish they would make that an option. Seems stupid not to.

 

Nice write up bud, no need for one in my house. Welcome to the forum, your truck looks great!!

 

Haven't used one on the D but I've used a trailer hitch Motorcycle carrier to move a R1 with a cherokee. Works very well. It did lower the suspension significantly but this was an older GC without rear load leveling shocks. I wouldn't think twice about using one again.

 

I might have found an alternate solution for the R/T if you live in California, Washington, or Utah. Rack N Road (locations on their website) has a solution where they install their own custom tracks on your vehicle that are compatible with Thule and Yakima racks. Then you buy the cross bars you like and install them on the tracks. You can move the cross bars back on the vehicle to the location where the stock cross bars ride. Their website specifically calls out the new Durangos and Grand Cherokees for this application. Anyone have pictures of this installation?