3rd Gen Ram Tech2002-2008 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 2002 through 2008 Rams Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
Lately I've noticed a whining sound comming from under the hood of my 05 rc/sb Hemi (35,000 mi). Checked it out and the noise seemed to be comming from the alternator. Took it to the "premier" ( in Cleveland) alternator/starter repair shop and got a confirmation. I was quoted about a $100.00 to replace the bearings. A rebuilt unit at Advance Auto parts runs between $165 and $200 for a Bosch or an Nippon Denso. Dosen't look too hard to remove the alternator. I guess you have to be careful with the belt tensioner that it dosen't snap back or something after removing the serpentine belt. I've only had the truck since last October so I haven't had to do any repairs yet. I was looking for an 05 shop manual but thery are hard to find and can be quite expensive. I did download an 04 issue to get a general falmiliarization with the process. How does that $100.00 repair cost sound?
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Get a new 160 amp alternator and shove it in there. I have the book at home if you want I can scan it in and get it to you tomorrow afternoon. It really is not hard to change, as a matter of fact it is one of the easier ones to change...
I was thinking about the 160 amp alternator. Are you talking about a rebuilt 160 amp from the auto parts store? The auto parts guy asked me something about "snow plow option" I wonder if that was the 160amp unit. Getting an alternator at a Dodge dealer would probably be cost prohibhitive I was looking at the belt tensioner today. I saw a nut that seemed to be holding it on, I wasn't sure if it was the nut to turn the tensioner to release the tension on the belt. It didn't turn when I put a socket on it so I went to plan B which was to use a slim pipe wrench to fit over the end of the tensioner that worked ok, I also tried a welders vice grips which also worked. Not a lot of room by the tensioner because of the coolant and washer reservoirs. I saw some little holes on the tensioner that look like they might be for a special tool or something. I also see there is a mounting bracket (alternator/compressor) that also looks like it has to come off to be able to slide the alternator forward off the mounting bolt(s). I would agree that it looks like one of the easier units to remove. I've taken some off over the years that were a nightmare to get at, way down toward the bottom of the engine where you couldn't see the lower mount bolts, could barely get your hands down there, etc. I downloaded an 04 shop manual that looked similar to an 05. It warned not to let the tensioner "snap back" once the belt is relased or the tensioner could be damaged. I'm waiting for the weather to clear so I can take the alternator off as I don't have room in my garage to pull the truck in. probably do it later in the week.
You have to pull off that black plate in front of the alternator and ac compressor. That's 4 or 5 easy bolts. The alt itself has 2 bolts holding it in. It slides straight up but you'll need a pry bar to move it. Use a little wd40 to slide the new one on. A rubber mallet helps as it is a tight fit. You should be able to move the tensioner by hand. The whole r&r can be done in under an hour with basic tools.
'07 5.7 4x4, custom stu cam, ported throttle body, headers, y pipe, dumped exhaust, 180 tstat, aeroforce interceptor w/ afr, 6" suspension, 3" body, 35s, Kenwood DDX512, infinity ref, 10.4" TFT-LCD Flip-down Overhead Monitor, bunch of other stuff
Ok. I downloaded the 04 manual about 77 megabytes. (77,000kb) in just a few minutes. email@example.com
this is a disposable address that I will trash after the download. I assumed you were going to send it to my email.......Thanks. I'm getting "The look" so I have to go eat dinner.
Let me research sending large files. Probably a zip file. Always good to have a shop manual around.even if we don't do the vast majority of the stuff in there. Great way to familiarize ones self with the repair procdures. I've always gotten a shop manual for almost all the vehicles I've had. I did see a dvd on ebay. I think it mentioned it was only distributed to dealers.
tensioner is easy. get a 3/8" ratchet. there are 2 or three square holes in the tensioner arm. the one furthest from the pulley (i think) accepts a 3/8" ratchet. then you can crank on the ratchet, or stick a cheater bar on there to make it easier. the tensioner arm should be rotated so the pulley moves up. slide the belt off, ease off the ratchet.
Yeah, I saw those little squares, except I had a 1/2" ratchet with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter it was too big to easly fit into that area. I don't know why I didn't think of getting my 3/8ths ratchet with a cheater bar. I noticed the little square holes were not very deep. I saw in the 04 shop manual under special tools a spanner wrench that may have been for the tensioner, hard to tell because the shop manual didn't elaborate which tool was used for which purpose. Then again the shop manuals are designed for the profesional techs who should be more familiar with the various tools.
Here is a review of a few large file transfer sites if anyone is interested. I noticed there is a ton of large file transfer sites out there. Some free, some pay. A google search wil produce a lot of choices.
Regarding retrofitting the 160 amp alternator for the hemi engine. I just read an interesting article of which I'll post a couple of paragraphs. I think I will reconsider putting the 160 amp unit in my truck.
Note the bit about the high amp alternator:
Two options are available to handle a higher amp draw. One is to add a dealer-installed 160-amp alternator. The 160-amp alternator is available on the Ram 2500 series truck as a part of the Snow Plow Prep package. The difficulty of retrofitting this factory alternator at the dealer level depends on the engine.
The high-amp alternator is a drop-in, bolt-on replacement on the Ram 1500 with the 4.7L engine. However, putting this 160-amp alternator on a HEMI-powered Ram 1500 requires a change in drive belt, engine pulley and idler pulley, in addition to the obvious harness and termination lead changes and the alternator
On the topic of power draw, the “heavy service” package includes a 700-amp battery from the 2500/3500 models, replacing the 600-amp battery, which is standard on the Ram 1500. The Ram we tested had the 750-amp battery, which comes with the optional Trailer Tow Group.
I happen to have the tow package with the 750 amp battery. As I do more research I'm finding I probably have enough "juice" for my application. I sure don't want to get into an "involved" project that initially started out as just a noisy alternator bearing replacement
I took off the alternator today, (15min.) took it down to the repair shop and had new bearings put in it. It took about an hour for the repair shop to call me to come and get it. ($60.00) Popped the alternator back into the HEMI and everything worked well. I have to say it was a piece of cake. Probably one of the easiest repairs I've done. I'm glad the alternator had easy access as the alternator is a tight fit I used a pry bar to help remove it and a 3/8th ratchet with a short cheater bar to move the belt tensioner. I used a hammer and a brass drift to lightly tap it back into position to reinstall the mounting bolts. Thanks to all on Dodge Forum who participated in this thread.
I have changed the harmonic balancer a year ago, for the first time on Durango 98.
And Tensioner pulley, and Idler pulley.
And then recently there was a noise in alternator.
Changing bearings in Dominican Republic should be about 12 usd with friendly mechanic, plus the price of the bearing, few dollars.
My mechanic used the hose to check from where the sound is coming from. You put one side on the ear, and other close to pulley.
Anyway, we could not determine the noise until we took out the belt (gatorback) and manually moved all.
Very little tool is used and anybody should change pulley or belt.