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Know anything about fixing power seat?

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  #1  
Old 05-29-2009, 09:32 PM
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04HemiGreg 04HemiGreg is offline
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Default Know anything about fixing power seat?

For about a year now, the rear up/down adjustment on my driver's power seat doesn't work. It's not burned out, I still hear the motor buzzing when I push the button up or down but the seat doesn't move. The front and forward/back adjustments still work fine but the rear up/down seems to be stuck. Anybody got any pointers as far as how to go about fixing it myself? Not sure where to start.
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  #2  
Old 05-30-2009, 03:36 AM
lross78550 lross78550 is offline
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Default i had the same problem

I had the same problem on my 05 dodge truck, up and down quit working on drivers seat a couple years into ownership. I finally got it fixed about a week ago. The part i bought was called a 2009 1500 crew cab 4x4 hemi with bucket seats and center console. It was a pricey part but the seat works fine now. Ill let you know how long this one works.
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Old 05-30-2009, 02:49 PM
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Gee, thanks. Really helps.
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Old 05-30-2009, 03:14 PM
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greg, have you tried greasing the slider parts? i don't have power seats so i don't know how it lifts up, but it seems like there would be slider tracks that the seat sets in.
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Old 05-30-2009, 08:02 PM
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I guess i need to get under there and take a closer look at it. It seems like it probably is a motor that turns a threaded rod that shortens or lengthens the rod that, in turn, moves the seat up and down. It doesn't sound like it is stuck as much as maybe the threads are no longer engaged so it's just spinning. Since I haven't had anymore response than this, I'm guessing this isn't a common/known problem with a common fix. I'll see what I can do on my own and pay someone to fix it if I can't figure it out.

The problem is, I'm 6'4" and my wife is 5'0". The seat is in the position that I like it in so it's not an issue for me. If it were, I'd have had it fixed long ago. But, I tow a travel trailer with the truck and when we go on vacation, if my wife wants to go somewhere alone, it makes it hard for her to adjust the seat so that she can comfortably see over the wheel. She can slide the seat forward, slide the power pedals towards her, and lift the front of the seat all the way up but the rear of the seat won't come up so it creates an awkward angle for her to sit.
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  #6  
Old 05-31-2009, 12:23 AM
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Sounds like a stripped plastic gear to me.
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Old 05-31-2009, 12:45 AM
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I have had the same problem for about a year now. I called the dealer, and they told me that I needed a whole new power seat assembly, all the motors come together in one frame. $500 or so. needless to say its still broke, and drives me crazy. keep us posted on if you are able to find a fix for it or not.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:54 PM
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Just wanted to add my 03 to the list with those having an up/down issue. I discovered it when I went to move the seat in preparation of the dreaded ac door fix. Now that I got that finished, onto the seat, then I will get to fix the passenger door window switch that's been intermittent for years. Good thing I really like the diesel engine or I might have to do something rash.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:57 PM
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It sounds like a gear to me. Idk if it would be plastic but you could prolly find one off of a scrap yard truck.
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  #10  
Old 08-19-2010, 03:37 PM
JMcHugh1199 JMcHugh1199 is offline
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Default Power Seat Fix

I have had the same problem with the front up down motor on my driver seat of my 02 Ram 1500. I found this site http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1999/23-28-99.htm that really helped. I was able to remove my motor and open the housing of it. I found that the adjustment rod has a plastic gear attached to the end inside the housing, and several of the threads of the gear were broken. Problem is dodge only sells the whole assembly and it runs over $400. So i am currently searching junkyards and online sites to find a replacement. I have found some on ebay, but they seem to run around $150 for the whole assembly. I know this thread started a long time ago, but I just found it today and hopefully someone else in need will find it and it will help them.
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:24 PM
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did you check any shops? maybe you could use a metal gear
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:35 AM
mschoppe35 mschoppe35 is offline
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Default Plastic Gear

Not much input as far as a fix goes, just that my front vertical motor has stopped working. Upon removal and inspection of the motor and gear box it turns out that it is the plastic gear inside. I haven't found anywhere that I can obtain just the gear. If anyone knows where to find it post it.
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  #13  
Old 10-11-2010, 11:38 AM
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As all said before, it is sold as a unit. No small individual pieces are sold. Sorry.
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  #14  
Old 02-22-2011, 01:30 PM
Bulverde Bill Bulverde Bill is offline
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A guy on ebay sells the individual motors. They are brand new and starting bid is $74. He starts with 1 bid but it is his own. Mine just arrived, and it looks great. The gear case broke on mine but the gears are still good.
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  #15  
Old 08-04-2011, 04:20 PM
RoryB RoryB is offline
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Default Power Seat Problems

Ya'll are not alone on this. We have the 1991 Dodge 3500 with the Cummins motor. About 1995 the forward/back motor quit moving the seat. Same thing... can hear it running but nothing happens. Took it back to the dealer then and was told the same story "can't fix it but we would be happy to replace it, oh by the way it will be about 350 bucks". When spotted hogs fly. The fwd/back motor is a dual output shaft motor that takes a piece of steel flex on both ends. There were two machine screws with 1/4" hex heads holding the motor to the mounting plate. It was easy to get out. I examined the ends of the flex to make sure it was not rounded off. With the motor out I still could not slide the seat by hand. Best guess, there is a gear in there that is driven by the flex and the gear must be malled or jammed or just wore out. I think the dealerships took the "ease way out" on this problem. To fail so early I believe we would find that this is a case of poor engineering.
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  #16  
Old 08-05-2011, 02:41 PM
Bulverde Bill Bulverde Bill is offline
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Default Seat motor

Sounds like the little plastic gear in the motor is stripped. Dodge does not sell the motor assembly by itself, only the whole seat base for around $800 which has all three motors. A guy on eBay sells replacement motors for around $80. I bought one and it is of same quality as original. The mounting ear broke on mine. The motor and gears are still good. I will take $30 for it if you are interested. You would have to swap the gears out on your housing, a fairly simple job.
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  #17  
Old 10-04-2011, 02:29 PM
Tentman Tentman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwo2nt View Post
Hey guys it sounds like lots are having this stripped gear problem. I am a machinest and I am going to machine some new ones out of alum. Would anyone be interested in one?
Hi iwo2nt

I have a 2003 1500 Q/C, just stripped out the front up/down motor to find the gear stripped. I am having the same problem with the rear up/down motor as well so I would be in for two gears.

I have found a guy in germany making them for a UK ford model that uses a similar motor, however he makes his from Brass.

Just a thought but if you can make the large gear out of metal would it not be beneficial to also make the small gear out of metal as well, to avoid the gears running metal on plastic, and then fit them as a pair.

Robin
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  #18  
Old 10-04-2011, 05:04 PM
coastierider coastierider is offline
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here is Loghopper's DIY Motor change write up;

http://www.*********.com/forums/showthread.php?t=336167



How To: Change a Seat Motor
2003 Ram 2500 – Quad cab but Should work for most/all 3rd Rams

Overview: I could not find a DIY on this project so hopefully some other members will find this useful. This is for the up/down seat motor only. I assume the other motors can be done the same way but I’m not sure. It’s done with the seat out of the cab. It would be nearly impossible to get the roll pin out with the seat in the truck. I found the motor on Ebay for about $85 shipped. Not cheap but the motor is now fixed and it’s much better than spending the $300 for a new seat track which some members have quoted on here. I also like fixing my own stuff and knowing that it’s done the right way.

Tools:
Channellocks, hammer, drift bar/punch, ” + 18mm sockets, grinder/Dremel, flat blade screwdriver, patience
Ebay link for motor: Click the image to open in full size. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...OC%3AUS%3A1123

Install Time: 2 Hours (estimated) It took me about 3 hours but some was trial and error.

Below is a pic of the motor to be changed.
Click the image to open in full size.

Motor Test
FIRST test your new motor. Unplug your old motor under your seat and plug in your new motor. Test the switch both ways to ensure it’s working. It wouldn’t be fun to do all this and then find out your motor doesn’t work.

Seat Removal
View the following picture of what the seat looks like so you know what you’re dealing with. The 2 brackets are arrowed.
Click the image to open in full size.

1. Loosen passenger seat – I removed the 2 front bolts ONLY (”) on the passenger seat which made it easier to get to the center console bolts that are underneath.
2. Prepare driver’s seat for removal – (2) ” bolts in front, (2) 18mm bolts in back
3. Remove the center console nuts – There are 2 in the rear and one in the front and they are all ”. Move the seat all the way forward for the rear bolts. I fit a ” socket/ ” drive underneath without lifting. Now move the seat all the way back and find the front nut. If you push on the headrest both seats along with the center console will tilt back. This will allow easier access to the front nut.
4. Disconnect plugs – Disco the main seat plug towards the front. Also disco the small plug going to the center console.
5. Detach seatbelt receptacle – Remove the driver’s seatbelt receptacle from the center console. There is a fabric rubber band thing holding it to the seat.
5. Remove seat – The bolts on the center seat point down so when removing the seat you have to tilt the driver’s seat so it clears these. I propped up the center seat (front and back) with a piece of wood to make it easier. You’ll need to tilt the seat back forward to get the seat out. Once the seat is out turn it upside on a table and let the back hang off.

Changing the motor
1.Remove the knurled ” pin – This pin attaches the tube nut to the seat frame lever. I used a pair of Channellocks and a big flat blade screwdriver. You might try a hammer and punch as well. Once removed the whole assembly will tilt up and down and pivot on the roll pin.
Click the image to open in full size.
2. Prepare the roll pin – !!!READ THE WHOLE STEP BEFORE PROCEEDING!!! This is where my trial and error will benefit you. The roll pin could be removed towards the center of the seat but it would be extremely hard. The easy way is to hammer it out towards the track BUT the roll pin is too long to get out. First hammer the pin till it’s flush with the housing. This will only be hammered about 3/16”. Here is where you take your grinder/Dremel and cut out 3/16” of the roll pin. The cut will be made between the motor housing and the seat track. We WILL reuse this later so do NOT throw it out. The following pictures show what it looks like.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
This is the pin AFTER being cut…
Click the image to open in full size.

3. Remove the roll pin – Finish hammering out the roll pin using a drift bar, punch, bolt or whatever will fit inside the hole without getting stuck. The roll pin should fall out. I had to pull it out with pliers between the track and the motor housing.
4. Remove the motor – This should just pop right out. Do not throw out. We need to remove the tube nut in the next step.
5. Prepare the tube nut for removal – The tube nut seems to be a press fit over a bushing. I didn’t want to waste energy trying to pull it out so I just cut the shaft right at the motor housing. Then using my thin cutting wheel again, I ground a notch in that same end. This notch will allow you to use a screwdriver to turn the shaft inside the tube nut and remove it. Keep the tube nut but the rest you can throw out. 2 steps shown below…
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
6. Install tube nut on new motor – The new motor came with a REVERSE THREAD nut instead of the press fit bushing which is much better. Your motor might be different. Coat the shaft with white lithium grease or some kind of grease. Screw the tube nut on and then thread the shaft nut (LEFT HAND THREAD) inside the tube. The tube is too skinny to get a socket in so I threaded it by hand as far as I could. They I used a small punch on the side of the nut to tap it into place. It doesn’t need a lot of force but just something more than hand tightening to hold it. Note small dimple on nut in picture…
Click the image to open in full size.
7. Install motor – First smooth out the roll pin with your grinder. This will make it easier to hammer in or you could use the other side. Put the motor in place and hammer the roll pin in gently. The roll pin will be shorter but it fits in so tight it won’t move. I guess you could use a hardened bolt as well which would make it easier to change IF (hoping never) it happens again.
8. Prepare and attach tubing nut to the seat frame lever – I enlarged the tubing nut slot on both sides because the motor did not line up perfectly. You don’t have an adjustment on this and didn’t want premature wear on the motor. After doing so connect these 2 parts using the ” knurled pin. Again, I used Channellocks to squeeze this into place.
9. Plug in motor – I put dielectric grease on all my electrical contacts and did so for the new motor connection. You don’t have to but this is a habit I have. Grease and anti-seize are your friends. Plug in the motor from the harness. Finished motor shown below..
Click the image to open in full size.

Reinstall Seat
1. Put the seat back in the truck and reverse all the first steps. It takes a little jockeying to get the 2 seat brackets under the center bolts. Be patient and it will go back in.
2. Put the seatbelt receptacle back through the fabric rubber band type holder.
3. Attach all the nuts to the center seat. 2 nuts in the rear and 1 in the front. Remove the braces (if any) that were under the center seat.
4. Install all 4 seat bolts.
5. Tighten the 2 front passenger seat bolts.
6. Make your connections – Connect the small plug going under the center seat. Connect the main power to the seat motor harness.
7. The new motor is a tad slower but operates much smoother than the stock one ever did.
8. Smile that you saved yourself money from buying an entire track and you did it yourself the right way.

I haven't posted any How To's on this forum so if I've missed something please let me know and I'll be happy to correct it. Thanks for reading.
END
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:21 AM
ram75 ram75 is offline
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I would be interested in the gear(s) I agree that having the two metal gears together as a set may be better in the long run, but at this point I just want the thing to work.
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Old 10-06-2011, 01:56 PM
Tentman Tentman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram75 View Post
I would be interested in the gear(s) I agree that having the two metal gears together as a set may be better in the long run, but at this point I just want the thing to work.

The motors are made by Fasco in the US. Maybe somebody over there(I am in the UK) can call a local distributor and see if they can supply them. the part number I think is 5609780

Robin
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Old 10-06-2011, 01:56 PM
 
 
 
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