i bought a 1995 dodge avenger a week ago, i live in michigan so its cold here so i havent started much on it yet. im nothing new to the car scene i built a 1989 jeep with 532 hp to the rear wheels, but this is about my avenger. there is no way this car gets this bad of gas milege, i went from a full tank of gas to empty in 140 miles. given i wasnt to nice to the gas pedal a couple times. iv maby slammed it down 5 times, but other then that, iv been really good in the gas. but 140 miles on a tank! the check engine light doesnt come on ever, but last night it turned on until i restarted my car and now its off again. i also hav ea couple other problems. the ac pump clicks, its sorta annoying, were can a get a new one/ good used one cheapish? also my rear speakers dont work, i have panasonic all around, kenwood tweeters, and the infinity amp in the back. why would they not work? i have a aftermarket headunit, but it is wired correctly, and even when i put a stock one back in it still didnt work. all help is appreciated! thanks!

 

You don't say I4 or V6 , but most gas mileage troubles are O2 sensors... They can go bad without tripping a CEL ... I had terrible gas mileage and bought an o2 sensor and kept swapping till the mileage improved ... my V6 gets around 26/29 MPG ...
AC pump clicking is probably the clutch on the front ...
Rear speakers check the wiring on them to the infinity amp , previous owner might have snipped them to power a sub amp ...

 

its a 6. were can i get a clutch for cheap, also, i havent found any spliced wires, the amp has no spliced wires, would the amp going do this?

 

if theres no snipped wires the amp could be bad ... you did check the fader correct ???
clutch would be either a dealer or a junkyard item ...

 

Hmm our cars came stock with an amp? Where would it be located? Would it be bolted to the back of the fold-down seats? I'm pretty sure I got hosed if so. I saw a place there where it looks like an amp was installed at one point but it wasn't there from the dealership.

 

yes, my fader is set correctly, and yea, come spring im going to fix it, and put on a body kit. there are also no wires cut what so ever. would i be able to just run new wires and bypass the amp? i have a aftermarket head unit, with 200 watts.

 

Infinity system comes with a 6 channel amp, located under the rear deck between the 6x9's ... black box 5"x9"

 

The Big Connector:
2 red wires: 12v Constant (connected even when car is off! Disconnect battery before messing with!)
2 Black Wires: Grounding screw
White/black wire: Remote Turn on from HU
Input Pairs:
White/blue FL+ Black/blueFL -
White/Red FR + Black/red FR -
Yellow/Red RR + Gray/Red RR -
Yellow/Blue RL + Gray/Blue RL -


The little Connector:
All outputs to speakers
(Colors of outputs are the same as inputs)

There are two pairs of wires with the same color as the rear L/R speaker wires.

One pair, you can visibly see goes to the speakers themselves, right from the connector, the other pair goes into the big bundle, those are the front Dash L/R Speakers.

Hope this helps anybody trying to use these connections, especially if you're doing what I'm doing and removing the infinity but still want to keep bal/fade functionality.

 

what, so if i just plain out bypass the amp, i wont have all the original functions? what are the pros and cons? also, what could be the problem of nothing working in the back.

 

if you buypass the amp it'll combine the rear 6x9's and the front dash speakers so the fader will be screwed ... you can rewire the front dash speakers to the front door speaker to the front channel if it will take the lowered impedance ... You can run new wires to the tweets or clip them and rewire at the rear amp