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Ground loop

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Old Mar 23, 2021 | 07:01 PM
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Default Ground loop

So I took a nap, cried myself to sleep like a baby. Much better thumbing.
so reading fsm fuel and ignition it reminded me of in the beginning I wondered if the 250 amps I'm pulling to chassis in 2 3ft runs of 2ought welding cable would cause ground loops..
Volvo would spaz out if I pushed more than 500w. I'm at 3,000 now in the dakota. Shooting for 6000.
So stil tard with schematics, mecp certified, but I'm fried. Second guessing stressing, on to the next thing in circles. Cause reading comprehension is turtle.
no codes. No spark.
Read that all pcm sensors ground on drivers fender wall. That's across the bay only 4-5 feet away from a huge negative draw.....?
Ima eat crow if it's my system that killed the truck. Now, how do I measure equally to chassis to disapate the draw? And couldn't I touch grounds furthest out first and work ground points back to battery behind my seat? Zap,zap zapZZZAP GROUNDED.
reminds me of Arc Blow in stick welding

Ground loops?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2021 | 07:54 PM
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Dude.

Just pull all that ***** substitute, get the truck working, THEN worry about showing people how small your ***** is by subtituting ridiculous amounts of audio pressure that can destroy you.

RwP
 
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Old Mar 24, 2021 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RalphP
Dude.

Just pull all that ***** substitute, get the truck working, THEN worry about showing people how small your ***** is by subtituting ridiculous amounts of audio pressure that can destroy you.

RwP
that's awesome. Best response ever. Thing is I had built lifepo4 48ah by hand. Couldn't fit it within the engine bay due to heat and it's chemistry. However it had worked for months. Great battery bank, still holds above 13.3. Resting.
I altered my way into the stock regulator, so now 2nd donor reg is unmolested and I am referencing, to preserve for stock alt. Then integrate 2nd 320amp to my external voltage regulator. How to go pro interface and still maintain its field is next. Learning up on Guage cluster field.
Oh and lastnights regrouped cured some. Cranks, squirts, no spark still. Gr/or has voltage bk/w none. Leads to pcm? Though check engine light comes and goes.
Still down daily
 
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Old Mar 24, 2021 | 02:07 PM
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Trying to read and understand your message masked behind all the broken English, and slang......
If you are running something that is 3000 watts., That would be a pull of 250 amps at 12volts. In no way is the electrical system on a stock dakota designed to carry that much of a load. In your previous post, you stated that you were ready to burn it down. Trust me, if you try running the truck with a constant 250 amp drain, you wont have to burn it down, it will probably do it on its own.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2021 | 03:30 PM
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Default Wolfram killed my truck?

Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
Trying to read and understand your message masked behind all the broken English, and slang......
If you are running something that is 3000 watts., That would be a pull of 250 amps at 12volts. In no way is the electrical system on a stock dakota designed to carry that much of a load. In your previous post, you stated that you were ready to burn it down. Trust me, if you try running the truck with a constant 250 amp drain, you wont have to burn it down, it will probably do it on its own.
That's ****ing awesome. For real. Well. The target is 450amps correct.. 2 alternators, separate by isolator. Problem is ....crank no start.
help me out hear....like what I did there?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2021 | 03:46 PM
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Default Ground

[QUOTE=93 ragtop;3510575]Trying to read and understand your message masked behind all the broken English, and slang......
If you are running something that is 3000 watts., That would be a pull of 250 amps at 12volts. In no way is the electrical system on a stock dakota designed to carry that much of a load. In your previous post, you stated that you were ready to burn it down. Trust me, if you try running the truck with a constant 250 amp drain, you wont have to burn it down, it will probably do it on its own.[/QUOTE
I noticed my 1 of four double 3/8ths speaker terminal leads was bigger than my stock ribbon 1/2in eng/body ground strap. Thus 500 in welding cable. Hand-built battery. And a dedicated 320 amp ces alternator. Soon to be isolated and dedicated to 48ah lithium should support 6,000 watts. So. Somehow was able to put all that together? Yet nobody has an actual answer as to why it cranks and won't start. Tell me 60pin,pcm, PDC, voltage regulator or some stupid fuel sending unit wire misquoted and not grounded at a fender a 20awg baby black wire wants to hang out over there where it's field windings in the dash are. Looks black, acts black in fact field??? pcm voltage regulator? And? Guess I'll dangle it up front like a carrot to get it to ground....idk. wouldn't surprise me.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2021 | 04:18 PM
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Still trying to understand......
How will a 320 amp alternator and a 48ah battery support 6000 watts at 12 volts? (thats 500 amps)
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 03:36 AM
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I'm trying to figure out which Volvo is involved and why. The Swedish branch (trucks) or the Chinese branch (cars).
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 08:26 AM
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I'm starting to think "Devon Farber" is a random sentence generator.

The post is making less and less sense, that's for sure.

Math is WWWAAAAYYYY off there.

RwP
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by RalphP
I'm starting to think "Devon Farber" is a random sentence generator.

The post is making less and less sense, that's for sure.

Math is WWWAAAAYYYY off there.

RwP

When he said he slept like a baby, I wondered if he wet the bed and cried all night.
 
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