sounds like an awesome time, something to look foreward to next week when i pull the v6 out!!! o boy

 

Pullin the old six-er out huh?
Got those flange bolts cut without a problem (and amazingly, it wasn't rusted to the manifold), BUT, downstream of the Y where it should pull apart, it didn't. So just cut the pipe just behind the connection there.
Trans came out, all 1 piece with the transfer case, which acts like its welded to the trans. I took the nuts off that connect the studs coming off the t-case to the trans, but doesn't budge. I'll just mess with it tommorow. I figure I got the stupid thing out from under the truck, good enough for today, right?
Pick up the new dust sheild and trans mount tommorow.
Might start on the CV joints tommorow (began to hear popping/other noises when turning), probably replace ball joints and tie rods while I'm at it (try to find someone that can press out/in the ball joints)
Hopefully be able to button everything back up and have enough time to replace the master cylinder, brake booster, and the brake components at all 4 corners, since I had the parts lying around. After this little fiasco, I'm hoping to not have to do any non-scheduled maintenance for a while. I swear, there were countless times when I was ready to set the truck on fire, only thing saving it was in the garage and couldn't be easily moved to the driveway. 1 more week left to work on my truck.

 

...and of course, the transfer case doesn't want to seperate from the trans.
The nuts securing the transfer case to the trans are removed, transfer case in neutral (as per the book), and it just won't budge. WD-40 soaked in at the base of the bolts, tried heat, tried playing rough with it, nothing.
Tommorow I'm going to talk to a few differant guys and see what they say. I've thought about trying to take the rear half of the case off, but I don't have all the tools needed (like, the second step calls for a 1-/8" socket and impact wrench [to take off the front driveshaft yoke], and thats where I had to stop, haha)

I "only" have a week left of leave, but talked to my work and they are willing to work with me if I need more time off (I am, after all, 700 miles from my work -- yes, pretty much everytime I go on vacation, I work on my truck, it usually is a soothing, comforting time for some TLC, lol).
I guess tommorow I'll start putting the new trans in. That way, if I run into any "road blocks" I can work them out (plus, I had one heck of a time removing the trans with the transfer case installed, definitly recommend removing it from the trans!)

I got a question: when I install the trans without the transfer case, would I still be able to start the vehicle up and the transmission still shift, or does the PCM need to get a VSS reading (which comes from the transfer case) to shift? Because I'd like to install it and check everything directly transmission related (for leaks, and get the fluid level ok, etc.)

I also need a new muffler and would like some recommendations (in this process the cat will probably be run away, since the line leading from the y to the cat is already cut ). Don't want anything loud, but, also nothing too soft. I realize its a V-6, and will never get the V-8 sound I'd love to have (hell, might as well just find a new PCM and 5.2L while I'm doing this project ).

 

i would probably go with a 3 chamber muffler if you are not going to run a cat and dont want ti too loud. i think the flowmaster 50 series is a 3 chamber, quieter than my 40 series. but yea i am getting rid of the ole v6, so if you need any parts off of it besides the accesorys and sensors just let me know!

 

Yea, I really shouldn't need anything off your V-6.

Well, got the transfer case removed from the old trans. Actually, got it mostly disassembled as well. I am amazed at how easy it was to take apart most of the case.
Tommorow I should be bolting the new trans to the block, picking up some seals for the transfer case from the stealership, and than putting the transfer case back together.
So, I'm hoping I get far enough to test her out tommorow.
Than, I'd like to start on the brakes (new calipers, wheel cylinders, drums, discs, pads and shoes, master cylinder, brake booster) CV joints, ball joints and tie-rods (maybe pitman and idler arms, if bad, which I wouldn't put it past them).

 

I don't know how much different the 4x4 is from the 4x2 I have all the REQUIRED special tools to replace the ball joints and it took me two days.Though I also replaced all the control arm bushings, switched the steering knuckles from the V6 to V8, (bigger outer tie rod ends), andthe rack and pinion. I promise that will be fun!

 

i just took the v6 out today, my tranny was not too bad, mabey it is cuz yours is 4wd...

 

I guess it is much harder than a 2wd! holy ****! it took me 4 hours to take the front end off, the six out without the tranny and everything detached! do or did you have a hand with it?

 

i did it by myself an it probably took5 to 6 hours for me too for the whole thing, it took longer to get the damn frozen fan clutch nut off than the transmission bolts, lol.

 

Actually, the engine-to-trans bolts came out fairly easily for me.
Looking back, I don't know what really took me so long. I mean, I ran into road-blocks with linkages (both shift and transfer case) that didn't budge without some extra effort (which reminds me, I still need to connect the kickdown linkage...), and that crossmember (since the transmission mount didn't want to come off, until I got it out of the truck and could heat up the bolts, that added a little effort). It would have been easier if the transfer case would have seperated from the transmission while it was still in the truck.
Oh well, if there is ever a next time (which, there better not be!) I think I can get it done in a "normal" amount of time.
Actually, my tools have become so disorganized during this project (like, I can't find any of my deep sockets), that it seems like I spend more time looking for tools than I do actually working.

Good news: It's almost all together. Just gotta fix an exhaust piece (cut the exhaust behind the Y-pipe after the crossmember was out, but tried putting it back in after the crossmember was in, it was cut too far back, so have to work something out; man is the Dakota loud when theres nothing behind that Y!), connect that kickdown linkage, connect the return line (added a cooler after the radiator), and she should be good to go.

Bad news: I think the transfer case is stuck in 4WD. I say this because before I installed it, I tried manualy moving the connection (the drive selector) on the transfer case, and it wouldn't move, and when I rotated the front driveshaft yoke, both the rear driveshaft spline and the input spline rotated. However, I installed it in the truck anyways, hoping that just the smallest bit of driving will make it work (everything is installed how it came out, I followed the manual *almost* to the T, and even consulted Google, and the rebuild how-to's I found didn't state anything differant than the book) The front driveshaft isn't connected, however.

Eh... So, for the transmission line I ran transmission-fluid-rated rubber hose (thats to and from the transmission). Yes, I know, I know, not a good idea. It's a "temp" thing though. When I get back down to Arkansas, I plan on buying either stainless steel braided line, or making my own stainless steel tubing lines (hahah... yea, right...) or, just purchasing new lines from the stealership. The hoses I used are 3/8". I won't exactly say I'm happy with how I had to run these "temp" lines, and am leaning more towards the stealership direct-fit lines, since the stainless braided line won't be any thinner than what I have. Any input?

Next project: new master cylinder, power brake booster, and brakes all the way around. Than, some weekend after I get back to Arkansas, new tie-rods, ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm, and CV joints. Shoot, than I'll have an almost new truck! Just gotta get the rust figured out.