Pretty pissed off here...
#21
#22
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sycamore, Illinois (displaced to Arkansas)
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RE: Pretty pissed off here...
Nah, I already figured it out.
On my truck, I have the "quick-disconnect" fittings. One the radiator, there is a bigger brass fitting that, when loosened, coolant starts to drain out. Threaded into that fitting is the connector that is threaded on once side, and "quick disconnect" on the other. See the attached picture. The threads on the threaded/q-d fitting match fairly closely to the -3AN fitting I bought for testing purposes.
On my truck, I have the "quick-disconnect" fittings. One the radiator, there is a bigger brass fitting that, when loosened, coolant starts to drain out. Threaded into that fitting is the connector that is threaded on once side, and "quick disconnect" on the other. See the attached picture. The threads on the threaded/q-d fitting match fairly closely to the -3AN fitting I bought for testing purposes.
#24
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sycamore, Illinois (displaced to Arkansas)
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RE: Pretty pissed off here...
Ah.. yes. That. I already modified mine. Had to to get the damn thing in... Cut it right down the center with the die grinder. Than it slid right in without a problem. When I told my grandpa I was going to have to/did cut it, he thought I was trying to do something wrong to put it in. Seeing as the old one didn't want to come out, I know its because of the ribs they put into it that makes it hard/impossible. Thanks for the tip!
Now, do you use anything to seal between the two pieces or not?
Now, do you use anything to seal between the two pieces or not?
#25
#27
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sycamore, Illinois (displaced to Arkansas)
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RE: Pretty pissed off here...
So, its driveable now... BUT...
1) It's leaking coolant. In the garage, it was leaking, so I tightened the hose clamps (I replaced the spring clamps with hose clamps). That made it go away. Started the truck back up while in the garage and no more leak. However, than took it out for a drive, and pulled into a parking long to check transfluid and give everything a look over, and sure enough, a puddle was forming on the ground. When Igot back to the house, there is coolant on each side of the lower engine comparment (you can see it on the frame and control arms) but mainly on the passenger side. Now, I did have the splash shields off both sides of the front wheel wells, but I don't recall having green rain here lately. I tired pin-pointing the source, but can't really come up with anything (yet, at least).
2) Transfer case (NP231)is stuck in 4WD. The front driveshaft is removed, but still, I obviously would like to add the front driveshaft and restore my ability to select 4WD (versus being stuck in it, not good). I know its the transfer case and not the linkage because when I had the case out, I tried shifting it (between any range selection), and it wouldn't. I did open the case (this was when I was having problems seperating the t/case from the trans), but put it back as the manual said.
I did notice that upon reassembly, the mode fork didn't seem to want to move on the shift sector. I do believe the mode fork shaft is fully seated in its case bore.
It wasn't like this before I opened it up, anyone got any ideas?
Gotta head back down to Arkansas (700 miles) on Saturday, so hoping to get these problems figured out...
1) It's leaking coolant. In the garage, it was leaking, so I tightened the hose clamps (I replaced the spring clamps with hose clamps). That made it go away. Started the truck back up while in the garage and no more leak. However, than took it out for a drive, and pulled into a parking long to check transfluid and give everything a look over, and sure enough, a puddle was forming on the ground. When Igot back to the house, there is coolant on each side of the lower engine comparment (you can see it on the frame and control arms) but mainly on the passenger side. Now, I did have the splash shields off both sides of the front wheel wells, but I don't recall having green rain here lately. I tired pin-pointing the source, but can't really come up with anything (yet, at least).
2) Transfer case (NP231)is stuck in 4WD. The front driveshaft is removed, but still, I obviously would like to add the front driveshaft and restore my ability to select 4WD (versus being stuck in it, not good). I know its the transfer case and not the linkage because when I had the case out, I tried shifting it (between any range selection), and it wouldn't. I did open the case (this was when I was having problems seperating the t/case from the trans), but put it back as the manual said.
I did notice that upon reassembly, the mode fork didn't seem to want to move on the shift sector. I do believe the mode fork shaft is fully seated in its case bore.
It wasn't like this before I opened it up, anyone got any ideas?
Gotta head back down to Arkansas (700 miles) on Saturday, so hoping to get these problems figured out...
#28
RE: Pretty pissed off here...
Well does the tranny work good? how much did it cost to rebuild yours? The local transmission shop quoted me $1100 for a OEM rebuild or $1300 for a heavy duty one with a shift kit, that includes a new convertor too. i did not think that was too bad. probably going to go ahead and get a stall convertor for it to when i do it!
#29
Join Date: Dec 2003
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RE: Pretty pissed off here...
I didn't get a rebuild. I got a new transmission (or abrand-new-looking rebuilt one, lol) for $2,000 (including convertor).
I need to take out a pressure-test-plug and re-seal it because a little bit of fluid is coming out. I'll keep an eye one it and will likely do that when I run the permanent lines.
I also burned up the park/neutral switch in the new one (I sent power through it by accident... my dumb *** not looking at the wiring diagram before misusing a jumper wire. my bad!)
It shifts ok. It doesn't shudder giving it full gas from a stop (although, no burn outs). The 1-2 shift doesn't shudder or feel bad either. The 2-3 shift feels like the old one, which felt ok, a little soft, but ok. And it goes into OD ok.
The coolant leak was the water pump. Picked a new one up at NAPA today, but couldn't get that damn clutch wrench anywhere. (Autozones loaner was out) So, special ordered it from NAPA, will be in tommorow morning. So guess what I will be doing tommorow? Give you a hint: freezing because its cold outside.
When I get back to Arkansas, every weekend I'll have a differant project for my truck. Run new trans lines (and get a new aux cooler, mine has a small leak at one bend). New brakes all around, and new front end. Woo hoo!
I need to take out a pressure-test-plug and re-seal it because a little bit of fluid is coming out. I'll keep an eye one it and will likely do that when I run the permanent lines.
I also burned up the park/neutral switch in the new one (I sent power through it by accident... my dumb *** not looking at the wiring diagram before misusing a jumper wire. my bad!)
It shifts ok. It doesn't shudder giving it full gas from a stop (although, no burn outs). The 1-2 shift doesn't shudder or feel bad either. The 2-3 shift feels like the old one, which felt ok, a little soft, but ok. And it goes into OD ok.
The coolant leak was the water pump. Picked a new one up at NAPA today, but couldn't get that damn clutch wrench anywhere. (Autozones loaner was out) So, special ordered it from NAPA, will be in tommorow morning. So guess what I will be doing tommorow? Give you a hint: freezing because its cold outside.
When I get back to Arkansas, every weekend I'll have a differant project for my truck. Run new trans lines (and get a new aux cooler, mine has a small leak at one bend). New brakes all around, and new front end. Woo hoo!