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So close

Old Oct 9, 2009 | 01:11 AM
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So, got the brake lines connected. Went to test... only problem is at the passenger front caliper.
There is a static leak (and pressurized leak) between the brake hose and the caliper. (Not the head of the banjo bolt and the brake hose)
I replaced the copper washers, and looked for any problems, none noted. Everything looks normal.

So right now, half the master cylinders fluid is sitting on my garage floor. I'm extremely pissed off (let's just say, things went flying!), since this is all that's stopping me from down jacking the truck, adjusting the torsion bars, and driving this.

Any suggestions short of replacing either the hose and/or the caliper?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 01:17 AM
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Close only counts with horseshoes and hand grenades! :P (you should have known I couldn't let it go without one more beatdown) :P

I would suggest plugging the line and running on 3 brakes so you can test drive this before you leave, then worry about it in February. JK, don't do that, thats just something I'd do cause I have no patients. Have you tried teflon tape or some other form of a thread locker or sealer? Of course that will just put a bandaid on the problem.
 

Last edited by 95_318SLT; Oct 9, 2009 at 01:31 AM.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 01:20 AM
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Something always happens. My suggestion duck tape. I wished I had a real suggestion. Good luck!
 
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 02:03 AM
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Well, took a shower (to clean up and cool off).
Got collected, and went and took another look.

Double checked the banjo bolt. No problems with the size/length/etc. (figured as much, since the drivers side I also got today, no leak)
Made sure the thickness of the washers wasn't a problem. No problem.

Took a closer look at the washers (had another set of new copper washers), and noticed that one side of the washers has a flat side, and the other, while it's not beveled, it's not as flat as the other. (The not-as-flat side looks more shiny than the other side)
So, put the flat side of the new washers facing towards the brake hose connection (not-as-flat side towards the caliper and the head of the banjo bolt)
Bled some fluid through the system, and checked 5 minutes later. Still dry.

Now I'm off to WalMart to replace the brake fluid that is on my garage floor, haha.

I think this proves that sometimes, what we think of as an unimportant detail (which side of the washer needs to face what), can actually make a pretty big difference.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 02:09 AM
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Cool! Good to hear it was something simple. Now fill 'er up and drive that truck already!!!!! Hopefully the engine remembers how to run :P
 
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 95_318SLT
Hopefully the engine remembers how to run :P
I've run it several times since December. I didn't totally mistreat her, haha.
Although when I went to start it up today (thus how I determined a pressurized leak on that brake) she wouldn't idle, but with my foot on the gas, she would run fine.
Naturally, I know this is an IAC problem. Took it off, cleaned it, reinstalled. She ran at about 2K RPMs for like 30 seconds, but finally came back down to a normal RPM.

This is not the first time. During the fall of '07, my friend, whom I left the keys for him to start up while I was out of country, had the same thing happen to him. First time she did this to me, though.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 03:10 AM
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Yeah, that IAC is a tricky little part. My truck has been having trouble finding an idle speed since I did the intake manifold swap on it a month or so ago. It's usually fine, but it's stalled itself out a couple times. One of these days it will **** me off enough to actually do something about it.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 03:20 AM
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Your still running the auto PCM in that, correct?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 03:24 AM
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Well, yes, but I'm actually running a mopar performance computer for a '95 5.9L Auto Dodge Ram. It has its issues, but it runs the truck like it should 98-99% of the time.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 03:32 AM
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As long as it does good most of the time!
 
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