Hi, was hoping i could get some help here with my '93 Dakota V8.

The main problem is that when I took the key I have to crank it for 4 - 6 seconds before it starts. If I turn the truck off and then back on it starts right up but if I wait more than 15 - 20 minutes, I continue to have the same problem. Also when it is in park it idles just a little rough. Other than than it seems to drive good and there is no check engine light on.

At first I thought it was the fuel pump so I changed the fuel pump this morning and when I tested it I thought for sure I had fixed it as it started right up. But then I put the bed back on my truck and started it again and it did the same this as before.

Any ideas? Idle air control sensor? Fuel injectors?


Thank you!

 

You must be Dennis's brother? :P Did you ever find a replacement clip for the fuel rail?

It could definately be the IAC. You should also check the fuel pressure at the rails and run some injector cleaner through it for a tank of gas or two. Also check for vacuum leaks and test your MAP and TPS with a multimeter to make sure they are reading what they should be.

 

Also, replace your fuel filter if it hasnt been.

 

Yes I am dennis' brother! Thanks for the tips, I replaced the IAC so well se what happens, it's idling pretty goofy but I guess I just have to drive it to reset everything.

I guess I am going to drive it for a day and see if the IAC fixes anything, after that I guess I'll check the MAP and TPS and then look into the fuel injectors. Well, at least I fixed my fuel gauge by replacing the pump.

Shark, yes the filter was part of the pump I replaced, thanks

Yes, fixed the fuel line problem, what a pain in the ***! I don't work on my truck very often, my bro has a '95, I have a '93, Dennis told me I needed a tool to remove the line so I attempted it with the tool and broke the clips. Meanwhile the dealer informed me that they no longer make the fuel lines that go from the firewall to the fuel rail. So... I went to the junkyard and again couldn't get the lines off with the tool so I cut the fuel lines and took the whole fuel rail home. Turns out my truck have quick connectors and no tools a necessary, you just have to push the clip all the way in and pull down on the line! The manual says do not attempt to replace the clips or fittings and to replace the whole line (which I cut!). I ended up having to carefully cut the fitting in half with a hack saw and carefully removing the clips to snap them in to my fuel lines.

 

Did you reset the computer after replacing the IAC? If not, just unplug it for 20-30 minutes and then drive it around. It usually takes 20 minutes or so of highway driving and 2-3 open to closed loop cylces (get it up to operating temp and let it cool all the way down, then get it back up to operating temp, etc.) to get the computer back up after resetting it.

I've discovered that without resetting it, the computer will never completely work out the new part. It happens with replacing any sensor that the computer gets input from. The same thing even happens if you do something like replace the throttle body or intake manifold, or put on headers, etc.

 

just thinking out loud. But for high performance engines, those things happen when the valves arent in spec. and are too tight with the cams.

Get your valves adjusted? Just a thought

 

Looks like youve got a pretty good start on things. I would agree with 318. Reset your comp and see if it smooths itself out.

Sounds like that little plastic retainer was a huge PITA. Least you got it fixed.

I assume Im sending you a rack and pinion then? Sounds like your having all kinds of fun.

 

Yes is that you I'm getting it from? That's my next project...

 

Hey guys,

So changing the iac didn't help either. But although my check engine light isn't on I checked and code number 11 is coming up... Anyone familiar with this? Thank you!

 

I would say out of that list, the most likely cause is a bad camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. If you haven't messed with the timing belt and its not loose (you don't hear it slapping), then you can be fairly sure that it hasn't skipped a tooth.

But that makes sense with your description of your problem, cause if it looses either of those signals, it won't fire.