Repair options..or SAS options
#1
Repair options..or SAS options
Hey, i have a 1996 dak
its got 440 000 km on it lol
anyway ive been through 3 different axles, i need new ball joints, tie rod ends...etc
ive been looking at my repair options, and even going through Rock Auto.com i would be looking at spending $600.
and for that price, i could definatley get a straight axle under the truck.
I have the skills to weld ect.
what im asking is what are people using for a front diff? and what kind of modifications need to be done to accommodate for the steering?
I know we use a drag link steering so its alot easier then going from rack and pinion, but what are people using for steering capabilities?.
its got 440 000 km on it lol
anyway ive been through 3 different axles, i need new ball joints, tie rod ends...etc
ive been looking at my repair options, and even going through Rock Auto.com i would be looking at spending $600.
and for that price, i could definatley get a straight axle under the truck.
I have the skills to weld ect.
what im asking is what are people using for a front diff? and what kind of modifications need to be done to accommodate for the steering?
I know we use a drag link steering so its alot easier then going from rack and pinion, but what are people using for steering capabilities?.
#3
The dana 44 HP front is a good axle. Youd want to get one out of a 77-79 ford 3/4 or camper special. Make sure it has kingpin knuckles, if you dont want to do balljoints. I personally like balljoints because they are easier to work on, and quite frankly last just as long if its a GOOD joint.
Im using a dana 60 out of a later dodge pickup. I chose that axle for a few reasons. I can run a heavy locker, and with the flip of a switch still turn corners in 4x4. Thats a big one. Also the 60 is considerably stronger in a few areas I wanted. Im planning on running at least 37's.
Honestly with welding and some inginuity you can stuff just about anything with a drivers side drop pumpkin.
I am going to use the factory drag link from the later dodge. Its much heavier, much simpler, and quite frankly much more effective. It also allows use of a steering stabilizer. Ill probably have to cut it down and reweld it due to length, but thats easy.
On another note, your rear axle is probably going to end up being 3 inches or so narrower than anything you throw in thats a solid axle. Plan on buying your axles in pairs to defeat this issue. Swapping rears is pud. Im going with a dana 80 rear that matches my 60 front. A ford 9" would match the dana 44 well, and everyone has one so they are cheap and you can find used gears and lockers easily.
Im using a dana 60 out of a later dodge pickup. I chose that axle for a few reasons. I can run a heavy locker, and with the flip of a switch still turn corners in 4x4. Thats a big one. Also the 60 is considerably stronger in a few areas I wanted. Im planning on running at least 37's.
Honestly with welding and some inginuity you can stuff just about anything with a drivers side drop pumpkin.
I am going to use the factory drag link from the later dodge. Its much heavier, much simpler, and quite frankly much more effective. It also allows use of a steering stabilizer. Ill probably have to cut it down and reweld it due to length, but thats easy.
On another note, your rear axle is probably going to end up being 3 inches or so narrower than anything you throw in thats a solid axle. Plan on buying your axles in pairs to defeat this issue. Swapping rears is pud. Im going with a dana 80 rear that matches my 60 front. A ford 9" would match the dana 44 well, and everyone has one so they are cheap and you can find used gears and lockers easily.
#4
I recommend Ford half tons you can run the radius arms off of the Ford with very little work. If you put a FSJ flat top knuckle on the passenger side it makes it easy to do crossover steering as for the rear there are lots of options semi float D60, 9", chryco 9.25 or whatever else you want to try. Personally I am putting a D44 out of a 96' Dodge 1500 it has the vacuum disconnect and low pinion but still a decent axle I would have went with a Ford axle but I got this one for $50. If this primarily a daily driver I would recommend the Dodge axle if it is like it is here in your area where the Dodge axles are much cheaper.
#5
Technically speaking the dodge axle is not any weaker. Some people dislike the disconnect, but I find it to be an advantage. Heres a link to disable the craptastic vacuum, and make it cable actuated.
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge.html
Its a little spendy, but removes all guesswork.
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge.html
Its a little spendy, but removes all guesswork.
#6
k cool, i can pretty much get any straight axle from my local yard for next to nothing,
i really want to retain the factory steering for simplicity and not having to custom fab any of the steering parts
i do not, i repeat, do not want to re-gear if i can avoid it, so i would need to find something with 3.55s'
does anyone have any detailed pics on how they set theirs up, including shackles, drive shaft, etc..?
i really want to retain the factory steering for simplicity and not having to custom fab any of the steering parts
i do not, i repeat, do not want to re-gear if i can avoid it, so i would need to find something with 3.55s'
does anyone have any detailed pics on how they set theirs up, including shackles, drive shaft, etc..?
#7
Ummm....yeah. Its gonna be MUCH more complicated to KEEP the factory steering components than to change them. Its not a bad system, its just set up for IFS....and your switching away from IFS.
Also....unless your going to run a leaf spring front you wont have shackles. If you do, its simple. Just pull your axle you want, weld your front hanger solid and your rear as the mobile point. Look at a jeep front if you need ideas.
Tons of things had 3.55 gears. Shouldnt be a hard find.
Driveshaft is also pretty simple. Take your driveshaft in and tell the shop your required length and what yoke ends you want. They will weld it, balance it, and bill you. Done.
Also....unless your going to run a leaf spring front you wont have shackles. If you do, its simple. Just pull your axle you want, weld your front hanger solid and your rear as the mobile point. Look at a jeep front if you need ideas.
Tons of things had 3.55 gears. Shouldnt be a hard find.
Driveshaft is also pretty simple. Take your driveshaft in and tell the shop your required length and what yoke ends you want. They will weld it, balance it, and bill you. Done.
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#8
with that many miles i would look at taking the cv axles on the front of, taking them apart, putting the outer ends back in the the wheel bearings and using it as a tall 2x4 until it dies.
you'll still have low gear but in 2 wheel drive. thats what i did to milk what life it had left in it.
you'll still have low gear but in 2 wheel drive. thats what i did to milk what life it had left in it.
#9
uh no.
I will never own a 2wd truck, they are useless. I bag my truck, I wheel my truck.
I have 2 axle stubs for when i break CV's so i can still drive it home.
So i think im going to do a SAS. not for a while tho, once i can accumulate all the parts. I have a 360 getting ready to go in to replace the tired 318, looking for a 5 spd swap. and building a custom front bumper.
Found all the front end parts, including axles, wheel bearings and hubs for 500$ shipped. so im not going to complain.
I will never own a 2wd truck, they are useless. I bag my truck, I wheel my truck.
I have 2 axle stubs for when i break CV's so i can still drive it home.
So i think im going to do a SAS. not for a while tho, once i can accumulate all the parts. I have a 360 getting ready to go in to replace the tired 318, looking for a 5 spd swap. and building a custom front bumper.
Found all the front end parts, including axles, wheel bearings and hubs for 500$ shipped. so im not going to complain.