Rusty Spark Plug: Am I in for some grief?
My old-time and trusted mechanic did a tune up. He told me one spark plug, the one closest to the radiator, was rusted in place. It was difficult to break loose and finally the tip broke off. It took him 90 minutes to get it out.
He suspects the head gasket is the problem and replacing it would be crazy expensive.
He strongly urged me to sell the van.
Second opinion on the head gasket, anyone?
------------------
2000 B350
5.2L /318 V8 8cyl EFI,
He suspects the head gasket is the problem and replacing it would be crazy expensive.
He strongly urged me to sell the van.
Second opinion on the head gasket, anyone?
------------------
2000 B350
5.2L /318 V8 8cyl EFI,
Head gaskets on a van aren't any fun. Of course, they ain't much fun on a truck either..... If you have to pay someone else to do it, you are probably looking at four figures, at least.... and if you are going to do one side, do BOTH. (plenum gasket at the same time wouldn't be a bad idea either.) Not cheap, but, likely cheaper than buying something else, and getting someone elses problems.
A few questions:
1. Is there a test to definely point the finger at the head gasket? Could it be anything other than the head gasket?
2.The mechanic said that with 130K, while he's working, I might as well let him do the timing belt, the valves, and (me saying this now, not him), other things he'd discover that needs to be fixed. If the engine needs to be removed for the repair (does it?) and other things need fixing, then what about a rebuilt Jasper engine, instead?
1. Is there a test to definely point the finger at the head gasket? Could it be anything other than the head gasket?
2.The mechanic said that with 130K, while he's working, I might as well let him do the timing belt, the valves, and (me saying this now, not him), other things he'd discover that needs to be fixed. If the engine needs to be removed for the repair (does it?) and other things need fixing, then what about a rebuilt Jasper engine, instead?
He told me one spark plug, the one closest to the radiator, was rusted in place. It was difficult to break loose and finally the tip broke off. It took him 90 minutes to get it out.
How long where the plugs in there? IF coolant was getting in to the combustion chamber and "rusting" the plug that is most likely a head gasket issue. If the plug rusted in place from age there should be nothing wrong with the gasket. Need more info from your mechanic as to why he thinks it's the gasket.
On a trip, 117K after the first tune-up, the water pump and fan clutch were replaced. On the last leg of the trip home, I smelled -- and lost -- lots of anti-freeze.
Back home, the mechanic discovered the water pump bypass hose was the cause of the leak. He replaced it. Problem resolved.
Timeline below.
Sept, 2022 (100,000)
Tune-up: spark plugs, cap and rotor, ignition wires. No rust.
June 7, 2023 (~117,000) (while on trip)
Water pump and gasket
Fan clutch
replaced coolant
July 28, 2023 (122,200)
Replaced water pump bypass hose
Current: April 28, 2024 (129,000)
Mopar spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, ignition wires
If it was the external part of the plug that was rusted up, and that includes the threaded portion, that isn't necessarily a head gasket problem. I would ONLY suspect the head gasket if the plug INSIDE the engine had rust, you were actually losing coolant, and that sparkplug was significantly cleaner than all the rest.
If it was the external part of the plug that was rusted up, and that includes the threaded portion, that isn't necessarily a head gasket problem. I would ONLY suspect the head gasket if the plug INSIDE the engine had rust, you were actually losing coolant, and that sparkplug was significantly cleaner than all the rest.
I remember all he said was is that the threads were rusted. He said he use a lubricant or solution to try to loose it. He said the "tip broke off" (tip of spark plug? Dunno) and he has major problems getting "it" (plug tip?) out. (I'll certainly check with him.) [This is the problem with a lay person talking to a mechanic!]
When he replaced the bypass hose, we took another long, ~7K trip. I didn't lose -- or smell -- any anti-freeze.
I don't know which of the two front plugs he was talking about. But either way, how could water access the plug? From underneath, from the roadway? We did drive through one extreme storm in late 2023 and we had large storms at home in 2024 while the van was parked in the driveway.
Can you speak more about "that sparkplug was significantly cleaner than all the rest?" To you mean the tip or the porcelain portion?
Back around to a head gasket test: Is there such a thing?
Trending Topics
If you didn't notice coolant loss on a 7K trip, you don't have a headgasket problem.
There IS a test though, your local parts store will have a test kit, and chemicals, to test for combustion gases in the coolant. Keep in mind, the test isn't 100% accurate. I had an Astro van the passed the test three time, but, it still had a blown head gasket..... Just not bad enough to show on the test for a bit.
As for the spark plug. If it were burning coolant, the porcelain tip that is in the combustion chamber would be very clean, and very white, along with the top of the piston also being very clean. (some carbon buildup is normal, but, when burning water/coolant, it tends to break it all loose, and the piston top will be squeaky clean.)
I have broken off sparkplugs before, and had a chunk fall into the cylinder. What generally worked, if nothing else does.... is leave the plug out, and start the engine...... Yes, it makes a hellacious racket, but, it will spit the broken piece out pretty quickly. Disable the injector on that cylinder before doing so though. Don't need to be spraying a combustible mixture into the engine compartment. Could be FAR too exciting.
There IS a test though, your local parts store will have a test kit, and chemicals, to test for combustion gases in the coolant. Keep in mind, the test isn't 100% accurate. I had an Astro van the passed the test three time, but, it still had a blown head gasket..... Just not bad enough to show on the test for a bit.As for the spark plug. If it were burning coolant, the porcelain tip that is in the combustion chamber would be very clean, and very white, along with the top of the piston also being very clean. (some carbon buildup is normal, but, when burning water/coolant, it tends to break it all loose, and the piston top will be squeaky clean.)
I have broken off sparkplugs before, and had a chunk fall into the cylinder. What generally worked, if nothing else does.... is leave the plug out, and start the engine...... Yes, it makes a hellacious racket, but, it will spit the broken piece out pretty quickly. Disable the injector on that cylinder before doing so though. Don't need to be spraying a combustible mixture into the engine compartment. Could be FAR too exciting.
A few questions:
1. Is there a test to definitely point the finger at the head gasket? Could it be anything other than the head gasket?
2.The mechanic said that with 130K, while he's working, I might as well let him do the timing belt, the valves, and (me saying this now, not him), other things he'd discover that needs to be fixed. If the engine needs to be removed for the repair (does it?) and other things need fixing, then what about a rebuilt Jasper engine, instead?
1. Is there a test to definitely point the finger at the head gasket? Could it be anything other than the head gasket?
2.The mechanic said that with 130K, while he's working, I might as well let him do the timing belt, the valves, and (me saying this now, not him), other things he'd discover that needs to be fixed. If the engine needs to be removed for the repair (does it?) and other things need fixing, then what about a rebuilt Jasper engine, instead?
2. I bought a pair of reconditioned heads off eBay and swapped mine out. At the time it cost $360 for the pair of heads, but I doubt it's still that cheap today. Labor-wise, it's probably a lot less expensive to get the reconditioned heads and have your guy swap them out, instead of putting the time in to recondition your existing ones. I also replace my timing chain set (there is no belt) at the same time. If you had compared the old and new timing sets side-by-side, you wouldn't have been able to tell the difference. That was at 150K miles, and virtually no wear. I did all of this work myself in a day.









