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My Official Solid Axle Swap Thread (The Discussion Thread)

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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 06:46 PM
  #11  
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No, its going on the 4x4, I was just saying that the 2wd has motor mounts without the axle, but you are right, it is on a huge crossmember.

I guess I'll build something for it. Probably just get a peice of steel pipe and weld some mounts on it.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 09:36 PM
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Hey, be happy. You only have 2 arms to worry about.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 09:44 PM
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Well, technically 3 if you include the track bar, but yeah, its simple enough!!
 
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 12:25 AM
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totally watching this, looking at this exact swap myself...can you keep a running total for cost?

what are you doing for steering?

what about the rear, because unless thats an EB axle your fronts are gunna stick out WAY past the rears?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by burntricer
totally watching this, looking at this exact swap myself...can you keep a running total for cost?

what are you doing for steering?

what about the rear, because unless thats an EB axle your fronts are gunna stick out WAY past the rears?
Lol, I've never kept a running total for any of my project... one of those don't wanna know things! But since you requested it I will this time. So far it's just the $120 cash for the axle assembly.

As of now I'm planning on using the factory steering box and hopefully the factory pitman arm. I'll use the steering system already set up on the axle but make a custom drag link. We'll see if this plan pans out or if I'll have to do something more involved.

As of now I'm planning on using a chrysler 9.25" out of a Ram 1500. I can find them for cheap at the local junkyard, and I would think they should be close in width. I want to use that axle because I already have a 9.25" under the rear that I've built so I'm familiar with them and have parts for them.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 12:57 AM
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that works for me man, its appreciated lol.

your going to use an entirley different bolt pattern on the back? or are the ford and dodge ones the same (i dont know bolt patterns that well lol)

as for the SAS, your clearly going to be lifting the truck, how high are you going? what size tires do you plan to run?

i want to run 35's so no more then 4 or 5 inches for me.

the reason im asking is;
a) driveshafts, you have any binding/length issues? or is the slip yolk long enough to handle an extra 5 inches?

b) Gearing, i have the 3.54 gears in now, i would like to maintain around that for a gear. I know it would be more of a dog with bigger tires, but i couldnt afford to re-gear at the moment lol. in a perfect world i would run around a 4.10

Since on our trucks, the front is vacuum activated, and the d-44 isnt... what can ya do to make it engage 4wd?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 01:11 AM
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They are both 5x5.5 lug pattern.

I plan on running 35s. Don't want to go much bigger than that. My truck will currently fit 33s (although I have 31.5" tires now), so I'm only looking for 2-4 inches on top of where my truck sits right now, so we're probably looking at the same thing. I'm more looking for strength and better spring rates than I have now with the IFS and torsion bars cranked so tight.

I doubt the driveshafts will be an issue. I have the nv3500 5 speed with a np242 transfer case on it's back and because of that I already have a custom built rear driveshaft that sits far enough in the transfer case that I doubt it can be pulled out... never know though. But my transmission/t case combo is actually pretty short compared to the auto with the 231 on its back, so I have a really long driveshaft... and basically, the longer the driveshaft, the less angle changes effect it. The front driveshaft is a completely different animal from the rear. Because of the double cardan joint, the pinion has to be angled in line with the driveshaft, so binding is never an issue with those. The only issue I can think of right now is if it will clear the transmission's crossmember.

I plan on running 4.56s or 4.88s with the 35s... depends on the numbers once I run them. I want the final gearing to be as close to stock as possible.
 

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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 01:21 AM
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sounds like you and i have very similar goals for the trucks.

originally when i do the swap, im leaving the 3.55s in because in the VERY near future, im putting a 360 in the truck, i think the extra power will make up for the lack of gearing.

i havent really looked around under the front of my truck. so i couldnt tell you what my front shaft etc is like..

Please, please, please take a tonne of pics, and measurements.

as for bolting to the frame, i think its awesome that it can be done, i wouldnt use anything less then gr 8 bolts tho lol. and for safety sake i probably will bolt and weld mine in.

i am very curious to how high the stock springs ford springs will sit, vrs stock height for our trucks now.

thats all i can really think of for questions now. but im definatley going to be paying close attention to this thread
 
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 01:34 AM
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I forgot to comment on your front axle CAD question... my '95 does not have the CAD. I forgot which year they quit using those but the later gen 1s didn't have them. The dana 44 has manual locking hubs. Basically, it gives me a few choices of what to do and I'll be thinking about which one will be best.

Option 1 is to leave the open differential in and I can leave the hubs locked unless I want 2Lo for some reason... then I can unlock them. Or unless I'm going on a long highway drive and want to get that load off the drivetrain to help with gas milage.

Option 2 is to put in a lsd and keep them unlocked unless I want to use AWD or 4x4, then I can lock them.

Option 3 is to put in a locker and leave them unlocked unless I want to go offroad. I know I mentioned putting a locker in it in the first post, but I've changed my mind on this idea. The reason being is that I took a lot of time and spent a lot of money giving my truck AWD, and running a locker in the front will make that useless.

Right now it's between leaving it open and putting in a LSD.

I will definately take lots of pictures! And I never use anything but grade 8! Everytime I need to replace a bolt in my truck I get a grade 8 bolt, whether its necessary or not!

The height difference question is not one I'll be able to answer cause I don't have the factory coils and I'm not getting them... I'm getting the 4 inch lift coils for the '77 and older bronco.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 01:39 AM
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so i have a 96, the CAD isnt used?

and what do ya mean you gave your truck awd?
sorry if im inandating you with questions lol, im super interested, and have access to a d44 and everything else, and am SERIOUSLY considering this swap for the spring...after i replace all my IFS parts :s lol
 
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