No, you should not have the CAD on the '96.

Lol, I installed the np242 transfer case, which has 5 selections:

2wd
4x4 Part Time
4x4 Full Time
N
4Lo

4x4 full time is the early version of all wheel drive. Instead of the front and rear axles being locked together, there is an open differential in the transfer case. I can literally launch my truck WOT in the pouring down rain and not spin a tire Thats not why I did it, I'm just saying.

But what I was saying is I can actually get a 2Lo out of it with this front axle because I can have the transfer case in 4Lo and unlock the hubs.

And bring on the questions! I'm not going to pretend to be an expert, but I'll try my best to answer them. This swap is one of the biggest writeups that this forum is missing, so I'll do my best to fix that!

 

so with me having the 231, how in the hell am i going to be able to put my truck in 4x4, i understand locking hubs, but my tcase needs to drive the diff no?

 

ok lol totally read my post and it made no sense.

im thinking for steering it shouldnt really be that hard, since we already have drag link steering, just going to need to find/make an adapter for the tie rod ends to reach the ones on this axle.

 

Basically, if you lock the hubs, you will have what you have now as far as 4x4 functionality. Just consider your current front axle to be a perminently engaged axle. The transfer case handles the disengagment of the front axle drive system. With locking hubs though, you can perminently run your transfer case in 4x4 if you want to and it will be 2wd with the hubs unlocked, and then you can lock the hubs when you need 4x4.

With our steering, you should be able to use the factory steering box and make a drag link to connect the box to the axle's tie rod assembly. The big question is will the factory pitman arm offer enough throw!

 

I think your swap to a solid front axle is an awesome idea. The stock Dodge ( GM did it too ) Mickey Mouse front axle setup blows. The engineers must have designed this setup for the lazy/city drivers that didn't want to get out of their trucks to lock the front hubs. Always having one axle engaged, and turning both axle u-joints 100% of the time never made sense to me...unwanted wear on the joints when you don't need them, and the increased gas consumption to push them down the road. It's an unreliable system in the winter too...slow to engage and disengage ( it gets to -35 here )...really slooooow.
Give me locking hubs any day.

 

Alright, I finally have something to update on. After going through a can of pb blaster, a propane tank for my torch, and 2 murdered socket extensions, and a cutting wheel for the bolts that just wouldn't budge, I finally got the radius arms off the axle and all the hardware off the radius arms. Here are some pictures...

DSCN0547.jpg?t=1259703069

DSCN0548.jpg?t=1259703115


DSCN0549.jpg?t=1259703138

DSCN0550.jpg?t=1259703155

DSCN0551.jpg?t=1259703169

Now my next step is to get the hubs, rotor, caliper, and knuckles off the axle and then it can be cleaned and painted. But I have to go to the store and get some more pb blaster and another propane bottle first =P

 

Nice!

 

Found another soild axle swap. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=647091

Maybe it can help. I didn't read anything yet.

 

looks like a pain in the ***, cant wait to do mine...just picked up a d44 housing and radius arms for 175!!

thank god for an oxy propane torch

 

Yes it is, but it will make the final product all the sweeter to have finished and be able to say I did it!!

Good deal (still got ya beat though :P). What truck is it out of?