i sckond that if we had money like that wed haver newer toys

 

if you're on a low budget and stock hp, the powertrax noslip is the best $400 i ever spent.
with a set of mudgrips it goes about anywhere in 2wd.

 

i know slt , there are a lot of down sides to it but a 50/50 lock is about the best you can get when you need it. i'm all about keep it simple but in this case i like the tech.
all the extra crap you got to install and run is not good, but push a button and you got a solid lock is a good thing.

 

But with a powertrax no-slip, if you push the gas pedal down you get a true 50-50 power split, no resetting ring gear backlash to install the locker, no running air lines or wiring a compressor, and no having to push a button to make it work, and on top of it all, it cost 1/3 the price!

I will agree that air lockers would be better, but in my opinion, not enough better to make it worth the extra cost and extra work to install.

 

is there a way to make an air locker cable operated? or does it require a constant pressure to stay locked in? i know some of the vaccum operated cad systems can be converted to cable but it may be way different..... i havent really looked into air lockers

 

Yes the Powertrax is a true locker. Trust me I got one! It only unlocks on a turn when your not on the gas. Once you press the gas, even just a little it will lock up and will give you full 50 50.

As for turning an air locker into a cable driving, I don't know but I'm sure if your determined you can. The air is more for when driving is water, where electronics can short out. Or water and mud get into cable housings. That is one of the major problem with the CAD units.

 

with any other locker the question is may or may not. there is a chance it will not lock (worn clutches). with an air locker there is no will it or wont it. i get where your at slt, i like it simple too but once in a while i'll go the other direction. saw the schematics for an air locker and it's not that bad.the thing i like best is there is no wear on parts when it's not locked in. i think this is a great setup for someone that has a ton of power going to the rear wheels.
oh by the way what did i get for christmas? a troy polamalu action figure. so i can look at it while the jets get the s--t kicked out of them.
think i need anger management!

 

But there are no clutches in a locker, Mazda, whether it be a selectable locker or manual locker... it sounds like you're thinking LSD. There is nothing that can wear out in a locker. Breaking it is the only way for it to fail.

 

i'm going to disagree just a tiny bit.

the way my noslip works is that it's normally locked up, 50/50 to each wheel, digging like its supposed to. when i get into a curve on hard ground or pavement, it develops some side to side forces, which compress the little springs inside, and it will unlock and stay unlocked while you go through that curve, irregardless of whether i'm hard on the gas or easy on the gas. once out of the curve, the side forces go away, the springs push the cleated teeth back together, and its locked again.

if in the middle of the curve you really punched it, so that you spin the tires, then it would probably relock, and you'd likely spin out. i don't drive like that anymore.

there's only one thing i don't like about the noslip. when you drive around in the yard it digs up the grass, same as a 4wheeler does.

some pics.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...yes-or-no.html

 

I'm not trying to argue with you dhvaughan, because I have no personal experience with the no-slip, but consider this argument against your comment... Richmond Gear makes the Powertrax no-slip for the full-floating rear axles as well, which have no "side to side" forces on the axle shafts like the semi-floating axles do since the hubs take all the other forces and the axles only deal with torque, so how would they work given your explanation?