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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 08:48 PM
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Default I Need Help Again

Alright so a while back I told you guys about this problem I was having:
When I turn the blower setting above 0 on my heater: the parking brake light comes on

when I try to roll down/up my power windows: the parking brake light comes on

and when backing up, instead of backup light: my parking brake light comes on.

I tested all these things and they all had power coming to them, so I thought it would be a short. Well I found the culprit to be a Red 50-Amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood, I couldn't get a 50-Amp so I put a tempo. 40-Amp in there, well that blew (of-course) but after that the Guage-lights don't work (speedometer and stuff) but oil light/ brake light/ and stuff still does.

I put the proper 50-Amp fuse in today and it worked until I turned the truck back on later and it popped (oh, the 50 did NOT fix the lights issue). So each time I put a 50 in it pops after while and no longer functions.

I think the culprit may be a loose wire under the rear bumper. The wire is stripped and I was thinking if it were a power wire it could be the cause. I'll try that. But what do you guys think?

Just to be clear: it's a 1992 Dodge Dakota SLT Extended cab with a 1994 360 5.9L V8.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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I 100% agree that you have a hot wire somewhere that is shorting out! There is no other reason I can think of that a 50 amp fuse would blow.

My advice for locating the bad wire is download the wiring diagrams from faq, find out everything that 50 amp fuse protects, locate those wires, and test them one by one. Yes... electrical problems suck!
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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The only problem is that the 1992 Dakota diagrams in the FAQ either are nonexistant or the websites that they are linked to do not load the proper page 'er somethin' like that. I have the Haynes/Chilton book but it doesn't have diagrams that get into this so specifically as the ones in the FAQ do for the 1994
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 10:16 PM
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Sounds like you have a ground problem and the activation of a switch is giving the light a source of ground.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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x2 on fixing the bare wire. Can you drive with the lights off and not have the fuse blow? Would be easier to pin point whats causing it to go.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 10:50 PM
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Yeah, when I bought the 50 Amp fuse I put it in, and started the truck (during the daytime) so it was no problem. I drove around town and had heat, but I checked the lights and the 50 Amp didn't fix them. They are not nearly as big of a concern as the heat, for it is 15 Degrees below zero. I've been driving for 3 months using a 55mm fan that plugs into my cigerrete lighter for a defroster.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 10:52 PM
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ok so when the headlights come on, thats when it blows the fuse?

Also where is the 50 Amp fuse located in the fuse panel? What number? Or is that the heater fuse on the firewall in the engine bay?
 

Last edited by oxygen454; Feb 22, 2010 at 11:01 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 11:00 PM
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There is no 92 wiring diagram. We do have a 94, 95, 96 wiring diagrams. 94 is going to almost 100% the same a 92. Also we have a 95 and 96 service manual that includes the wiring diagrams.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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+1 to what Crazy said. The only difference I know of between the '92 -93 and '94-'95 as far as wiring goes is the speed sensor/speedometer change.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 11:10 PM
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Ya I was just reading the 95 to get a general idea for how the wiring is done.

I also wonder if his problem is behind his fuse box? That would be a scary sight if it was. I would to with process of elimination.
Cover that bare wire, then if everything works with the lights off (except maybe the heat?) then trace the wiring for the lights. Which would bring us back to that bare wire LOL. I like working on electrical as I took some schooling in it, but its hard to diagnose over the internet lol.
 
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