Transmission Leak - Cracked Case
#1
Transmission Leak - Cracked Case
Edit: I started this thread a few months back, but have some new questions, so please scroll down
I noticed my truck leaking a lot of transmission fluid so I crawled under to take a look, and found this (click for huge):
Notice how you can see the threads in the crack.
This is on the part of the transmission rear of the pan where the the front wheels take off power. It's leaking enough that I doubt topping off the transmission before each drive would help.
What can I do to fix this? Will epoxy putty work? Should I just weld a blob in there to plug it up? Some kind of magic sealant?
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
I noticed my truck leaking a lot of transmission fluid so I crawled under to take a look, and found this (click for huge):
Notice how you can see the threads in the crack.
This is on the part of the transmission rear of the pan where the the front wheels take off power. It's leaking enough that I doubt topping off the transmission before each drive would help.
What can I do to fix this? Will epoxy putty work? Should I just weld a blob in there to plug it up? Some kind of magic sealant?
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Hillridge; 10-26-2010 at 08:47 AM.
#5
LOL! When I first looked I didn't see the chunk missing. I guess I just thought it was something on the outside. But technically there is suppose to be no oil in the center section due to the seals holding it all back. If wanted maybe try some JB weld to fill it in once the seals are replaced.
#6
What did you mean by center section? The part between the pan and the transfer case? I've been trying to find a good drawing of the drive train so I could circle where this issue is.
I don't have my tech manuals with me right now. How much work is involved with changing out the seals? Will I need to drop the whole transmission, or can things be moved apart enough after unbolting them to do it with the truck on jacks or ramps?
I've also noticed that if I just pull the 4x4 shift straight back into 4H it doesn't seem to fully engage. The 4x4 light will come on, but the shifter likes to move back toward 2H enough for the light to go back out. If I pull it back to 4H, then shift it to the right a bit, it seems to stick.
I don't have my tech manuals with me right now. How much work is involved with changing out the seals? Will I need to drop the whole transmission, or can things be moved apart enough after unbolting them to do it with the truck on jacks or ramps?
I've also noticed that if I just pull the 4x4 shift straight back into 4H it doesn't seem to fully engage. The 4x4 light will come on, but the shifter likes to move back toward 2H enough for the light to go back out. If I pull it back to 4H, then shift it to the right a bit, it seems to stick.
#7
I've also noticed that if I just pull the 4x4 shift straight back into 4H it doesn't seem to fully engage. The 4x4 light will come on, but the shifter likes to move back toward 2H enough for the light to go back out. If I pull it back to 4H, then shift it to the right a bit, it seems to stick.
i have to do that too its nothing to worry about imo its not a bother to pullit untill i can pull it to the right then go back with it
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#8
What did you mean by center section? The part between the pan and the transfer case? I've been trying to find a good drawing of the drive train so I could circle where this issue is.
I don't have my tech manuals with me right now. How much work is involved with changing out the seals? Will I need to drop the whole transmission, or can things be moved apart enough after unbolting them to do it with the truck on jacks or ramps?
I've also noticed that if I just pull the 4x4 shift straight back into 4H it doesn't seem to fully engage. The 4x4 light will come on, but the shifter likes to move back toward 2H enough for the light to go back out. If I pull it back to 4H, then shift it to the right a bit, it seems to stick.
I don't have my tech manuals with me right now. How much work is involved with changing out the seals? Will I need to drop the whole transmission, or can things be moved apart enough after unbolting them to do it with the truck on jacks or ramps?
I've also noticed that if I just pull the 4x4 shift straight back into 4H it doesn't seem to fully engage. The 4x4 light will come on, but the shifter likes to move back toward 2H enough for the light to go back out. If I pull it back to 4H, then shift it to the right a bit, it seems to stick.
All you need to do to change out the seals is drop the transfer case. The transmission can stay in the truck.
And for the shifter... you can adjust them. Loosen the lock bolt on the shift rod, put the transfer case in 4hi, put the lever in 4hi, the slide it forward about an 1/8 of an inch, then tighten the lock bolt. Do a search in this section for this topic if you want a more detailed description and pictures.
#9
4 Month Bump!
I finally got the truck into my garage and up on jacks this weekend (had to get a TR6 out first). The front and rear driveshafts are off now, and I've started to unbolt the transfer case (though I should probably drain it first). Do I need to support it as I unbolt it, or can I just take all the nuts off then slide it off the studs and bring it down? The Haynes manual says to remove the crossmember, but that seems excessive. Is there generally enough room to get the transfer case out while leaving the crossmember in place?
Answer: Crossmember can stay. I just slid the transfer case up and back to make enough room to reach the seal.
The manual also says to support the transmission with a jack when removing the transfer case. Why do I need to do this, since if anything the transmission will have less stress on it after the weight of the transfer case is removed from the end of it.
I'm glad I waited until I had garage space open to do this rather than try and work in the driveway. Now I don't need to rush anything or work around the weather.
I finally got the truck into my garage and up on jacks this weekend (had to get a TR6 out first). The front and rear driveshafts are off now, and I've started to unbolt the transfer case (though I should probably drain it first). Do I need to support it as I unbolt it, or can I just take all the nuts off then slide it off the studs and bring it down? The Haynes manual says to remove the crossmember, but that seems excessive. Is there generally enough room to get the transfer case out while leaving the crossmember in place?
Answer: Crossmember can stay. I just slid the transfer case up and back to make enough room to reach the seal.
The manual also says to support the transmission with a jack when removing the transfer case. Why do I need to do this, since if anything the transmission will have less stress on it after the weight of the transfer case is removed from the end of it.
I'm glad I waited until I had garage space open to do this rather than try and work in the driveway. Now I don't need to rush anything or work around the weather.
Last edited by Hillridge; 10-26-2010 at 08:49 AM.
#10
With the 4WD shift linkage removed from the transfer case, how hard should it be to move around the shift **** in the cab? It feels like I have to push it pretty hard to get it in the 2H or 4L positions and it likes to center itself around 4H and N. Is that normal?
I replaced the seal and reattached the transfer case last night. Now I need to refill the transfer case and run the truck a bit to see if the leak is gone. The transfer case takes the same fluid as the transmission right?
I replaced the seal and reattached the transfer case last night. Now I need to refill the transfer case and run the truck a bit to see if the leak is gone. The transfer case takes the same fluid as the transmission right?