93 4x4 5.2 LE Dakota drum brake to disc?
#12
#13
That Sucks....
I haven't had all the pieces at the same spot to make any real measurements... but that sucks... LOL Nothing I can't deal with, but a surprising bit of information for sure.
I once bought a brand new truck and and cut it in half... I wanted an extended cab 3500HD Chevy Dump, and they weren't available, so I cut it mid way through the windshield frame and right acoss the floor behind the drivers seat and grafted a three door extended cab back onto it. Came out awesome, but my wife was going to have me committed when she came to the shop and saw my new truck laying in various locations around the shop.
Which way do I have to go, shorten the wheel base or lengthen... I really haven't measured it at all yet, so your telling good information.
I have been considering adding an extention out of the back of the cab, for additional storage in the cab, but do it in such a way, the bed will still look stock, but have a false wall inside it, the same distance that gets covered when the top is down anyhow. I guess you wouldn't call it a false wall, it would really be the wall, or end of the bed, but about 18" closer to the back of the bed on the inside.
I could really appriciate additional in cab storage for valuables and tools. Especially if noone else knows it there. When you lean the seat forward, there would be an access opening into this newly created storage area.
Wow... how did I get so off topic? LOL Disc brake conversion to cab conversions.
I once bought a brand new truck and and cut it in half... I wanted an extended cab 3500HD Chevy Dump, and they weren't available, so I cut it mid way through the windshield frame and right acoss the floor behind the drivers seat and grafted a three door extended cab back onto it. Came out awesome, but my wife was going to have me committed when she came to the shop and saw my new truck laying in various locations around the shop.
Which way do I have to go, shorten the wheel base or lengthen... I really haven't measured it at all yet, so your telling good information.
I have been considering adding an extention out of the back of the cab, for additional storage in the cab, but do it in such a way, the bed will still look stock, but have a false wall inside it, the same distance that gets covered when the top is down anyhow. I guess you wouldn't call it a false wall, it would really be the wall, or end of the bed, but about 18" closer to the back of the bed on the inside.
I could really appriciate additional in cab storage for valuables and tools. Especially if noone else knows it there. When you lean the seat forward, there would be an access opening into this newly created storage area.
Wow... how did I get so off topic? LOL Disc brake conversion to cab conversions.
#14
Here's a question for you... swapping out IFS parts for a lift.
Ever known anyone to scalp the mounting hardware off another 4x4 frame, then graft them onto a new frame, 3"-5" lower?
In effect, keeping everything stock, but giving yourself a lift in the suspension?
Might have to remount steering gear box and everything... seems doable in my head, but until the trucks are at the shop and on the lift, it's hard to say.
...and they call you Crazy... LOL
In effect, keeping everything stock, but giving yourself a lift in the suspension?
Might have to remount steering gear box and everything... seems doable in my head, but until the trucks are at the shop and on the lift, it's hard to say.
...and they call you Crazy... LOL
#15
I just noticed the RCSB and RCLB portion of your note...
Missed that infromationed displayed the first time reading through your post... and now I know what the RCSB and RCLB means... I had no clue earlier. Remember I was a GM man, not Dodge... Interesting!
Depending on spring perches, drive shaft lengths, etc... I might be able to run stock parts with only a new set of springs with new centerbolt position, and maybe a driveshaft alteration to center the wheel in the wheel well.
Can't wait to get my tape measure out now... Thanks for the heads up... Now I'll have things to ponder tonight when I am supposed to be sleeping.
Me
Depending on spring perches, drive shaft lengths, etc... I might be able to run stock parts with only a new set of springs with new centerbolt position, and maybe a driveshaft alteration to center the wheel in the wheel well.
Can't wait to get my tape measure out now... Thanks for the heads up... Now I'll have things to ponder tonight when I am supposed to be sleeping.
Me
#16
Ever known anyone to scalp the mounting hardware off another 4x4 frame, then graft them onto a new frame, 3"-5" lower?
In effect, keeping everything stock, but giving yourself a lift in the suspension?
Might have to remount steering gear box and everything... seems doable in my head, but until the trucks are at the shop and on the lift, it's hard to say.
...and they call you Crazy... LOL
In effect, keeping everything stock, but giving yourself a lift in the suspension?
Might have to remount steering gear box and everything... seems doable in my head, but until the trucks are at the shop and on the lift, it's hard to say.
...and they call you Crazy... LOL
These are the mounts so you can see what I mean...
DSCN0729b.jpg?t=1287019844
#17
Great picture...
I follow what your saying, but from what I see in the picture, adding a mock up of the frame below the original frame would be a piece of cake from the appearance on this side, not knowing what is behind it, such as motor mounts or cross members that might interfer.
The front bracket looks like you could duplicate or graph in a second lower radiator support... I know it isn't the radiator support, but right there in that area.
I believe the rear cross member where the torsion bars attach in the back could be dropped or stacked if you will, similarly.
Doesn't look any harder then installing the SAS.
Just figured someone out there would have already tried it.
A stock ride feel and 3 or 4 more inches of road clearance for bigger tires would be nice.
The $1700 price tag on the lift kit would aford a guy a lot of welding rod and time.
Thanks again for your reply...
The front bracket looks like you could duplicate or graph in a second lower radiator support... I know it isn't the radiator support, but right there in that area.
I believe the rear cross member where the torsion bars attach in the back could be dropped or stacked if you will, similarly.
Doesn't look any harder then installing the SAS.
Just figured someone out there would have already tried it.
A stock ride feel and 3 or 4 more inches of road clearance for bigger tires would be nice.
The $1700 price tag on the lift kit would aford a guy a lot of welding rod and time.
Thanks again for your reply...
#18
#19
Thanks for your replies
I am going to start another thread about frame stacking, see if anyone else has done it...
As far as the wheel base length difference ... I am considering a "midsection", possibly a tool box inbetween the cab and bed...
I modified the truck from your pick to give me an idea what it would look like.
Thanks again guys.
MrSmucker
As far as the wheel base length difference ... I am considering a "midsection", possibly a tool box inbetween the cab and bed...
I modified the truck from your pick to give me an idea what it would look like.
Thanks again guys.
MrSmucker
Last edited by mrsmucker; 10-19-2010 at 02:27 PM.