you should stick the radiator in front of the rad support if there is room. might even try to find a water pump that doesn't stick out so far? good build.

might just be the angle of the pic but it looks like the motor is set more forward.

 

Possibly, I may have the engine mounting plates on the opposite sides, but searches have proven lacking. Can someone shoot a pic of the original plate setup for the 3.9l V6 for comparison? They appear interchangeable to me, but perhaps I have them upside down and do not realize it.

 

I cannot seem to stay logged in for more than one page to load. I am sure somebody can help. I have tried adjusting my cookies, but windows 7 is being difficult.

Here are the stock mounts from a 92 Dakota, which are very different from mine. Should I just swap to these?






And these are the manifolds off the same 92. Just a rough comparison between the two.

 

The motor mounts look like they bolt up to the same location to me. But I can't see it in person so I can't say for sure.

Pre 90 had the core support that was closer to the engine. 91-up had more room due to a new core support. Maybe Electric fans or swap in a newer radiator core support and grill hood ect.

 

I bought some "newer" mounts just to see if I can get an inch or so. I believe I have a standard duty radiator that will not allow me to get the clearance I need. I will be purchasing a HD radiator after I swap the mounts if neccessary. I will not be changing the front end for clearance.

Finished the preliminary wiring, except for the choke and the sensors (temp, oil pres, voltometer). Will need to wrap them soon.

Drivetrain done except the toggles for the lockup and OD. Not sure if I am going to do the PATC setup yet, but maybe in the Spring. Plus, I need to get the correct speedo cable.

I could really use some pics of the transmission linkage for a V8 dakota automatic (A518). I think I am missing a triangular piece down by the levers. If anyone could snap one off and post it, I would be eternally grateful. Otherwise, I will have to go to the boneyard and scrounge.

Things left to do:

Intake hardware (coolant hoses etc.)

Vacuum lines for brake, PCV, distributor.

Wire loom.

Run the fuel circuit from the tank. I think I will just run new lines. OR I could cheese out and run some braided line from the stearing knuckle.

The stock Y-pipe did not like the new transmission and exhaust manifolds. So I need to go procure a new Y pipe at the yard.

Finish setting the alternator bracketry. Real tricky with the smaller Nippon Denso alternator and the Vbelt setup. I think I have it resolved though.

Radiator and the 2 asociated hoses.

Plumb the transmission cooler lines.

Fill with fluids.

Test fire/ break in.

I will be replacing the entire dash prior to street duty, so that will put me back a weekend. The existing dash is fairly done, but there is a basically new one at the yard that will fit nicely.

Question: Is the box behind the dash on the passenger side for the rear axle ABS?

 

A few more pics:


Drvr side exhaust and preliminary linkage



Pass side exhaust mock



Pulley clearance (note the angle of the radiator mount, also, I have not swapped mounts yet)

 

wow your truck is awesome. sorry i didn't read the thread are you going to drag it or just a play truck

 

Started routing the coolant lines and fuel lines. I am really getting behind on this thing, but regardless:




My argument is to use the rod versus the tv cable. I think that the rod will work and finding the correct bracket will not happen, so I am pretty sure that the cable will have to be used. Note the "Summit" carb bracket. It is file to fit with the expansion/locking/isolator clips on the cables. The finish is a crappy chrome as well. I must say I REALLY hate chrome for a DD/WR.



This is the rear of my intake (of particular interest here is the EGR port). After reviewing the functionality of PCV systems, I would like to take advantage of the port and use it as a full vacuum port (FVP) for the PCV and bypass the FVP on the carburetor. Any input here is appreciated.

 

It occured to me recently that some of you may be wondering why I am using an EFI manifold for a carbureted engine. The fuel port area is for a DP nitrous install later. I hope that clarifies the reason. Although that will not happen until the Fall. This manifold (M1) is also the older square bore 4v style that I do not see alot of from looking at other builds (being they are typically 2v (the newer ones and negates the 2v conversion piece). The air cleaner bolt, as is, is about 1/2" from the hood.

 

did the carb mount to the intake alright or did it need an adapter?