i have a 93 dakota 5.2 4x4 and i put a new transmission in it and now it will only raise 3000rps then its like it hits a rev limiter. what is wrong with it?

 

Are you sure its the correct transmission and correct torque converter? It sounds like it might not be shifting.

 

Do older Dakotas have Park/Neutral low rev limiters? Many newer vehicles have rev limiters around 3000RPMs in nuetral and park, so maybe your truck still thinks it's in park/nuetral.

 

yes its the correct TC and Tranny. it does it in every gear and only at 3000rpms. i havent been able to figure it out, and it idles weird and dies every couple minutes. park, neutral, 1-4 its all the same, i drove it 80 miles backfiring and spuddering and it used 3/4 tank of gas, it usually take 1/4. I cut my exhause before i drove the 80 miles because the catylatic converter was red hot. any more infor, or suggestions?

 

Mine doesn't. Like you know, my truck was an auto converted to a manual, and I can rev the engine out to 5k+ with the computer thinking the transmission is in park or neutral.

 

By cut the exhaust, do you mean you now have straight pipes dumping before the cat used to be? If so, that is likely responsible for a good portion of your lack of power/gas milage. Exhaust changes drastically effect power and fuel economy and having no backpressure in the exhaust system severely hinders the performance of the engine. Whatever is causing the sputtering is probably responsible for the rest of the bad fuel economy problem.

As for the sputtering problem... did you do anything to the crankshaft position sensor when you were changing transmissions?

 

seen this before in tranny shops (and they send em to us like this often as well)
check your crank sens and wiring. make sure you don't have the wire caught in the bh (bell housing) and if not pull your crank sensor out and either go to a dealer and ask for a green button that goes on the end of the ckp sens to adjust air gap (they will know what you need) or get a peice of card bouard (not currogated but solid like the box sensors and such come in even an old flash card just anything solid) and "glue" it to the ckp sens with some rtv. set your sens back in there (checking to make sure you don't have it on a window and no i have never heard of it and yes the sens is to big to get caught and break but it can affect the air gap) and snug it down. if it's what i think this should help you out. if it is just a simple air gap adjustment (usually because some does a trans r&r for the first time and thinks that it has to come off to get the trans out and then does not know that you need to have the gap set right) then it should be nothing more than just setting as described above. hope this helps/.

 

i changed transmissions, and turning the motor over to get tq bolts it bent the metal wheel where the crank sensor goes and ate an aftermarket sensor and a dodge sensor, then i bent it all back and put a new dealer sensor and it thats how it is now, the air gap does make sense, im gonna try that. so after spending $52 on oreilly sensor, and $140 on two dealer sensors, i hope to not buy any more. what it that wheel inside the transmission the crank sensor reads? i need a specific name, because i think i may just need to get one and be done with it. ill have to unbolt transmission and slide back alot again, it was a real pain, i had to lift the body just to get the old transmission out, so if u could tell me the name of that part it would be very helpful, THANKS

 

the old transmission would rev 5000+ before new tranny, just 1st and second were slipping and goin out. I spent $1000 on this transmission and cant drive it, that bums me

 

where do you glue it to? the end of the sensor or under the bolts?