Heads up to any one doing water pump on Dodge 98 Dodge Ram2500 V8 5.9 gas and possibly other engines . if removin water pump specifically a 7 bolt on pump ... The two lower bolt holes on the pump opposite of each other go thru into the timing chain cover and above the oil pan. ...so caution keep these plugged during any water pump work or water will enter your oil pan thru the timing chain cover .. Why this is not pointed.out any where in Chryslers shop manual i have no idea. So beware all Dodge diehards ..ive ben to auto school in the 80s and been turnin wrenches since 1980 . Dodge Die Hard till im Dead.

 

If you don't pull the timing cover, it shouldn't be an issue.

 

I would think as a rule that working on the WP ie removing its bolts, you would first drain the coolant system thus preventing that problem.
edit-Yup just checked the first step for servicing the 2.5 WP and the second step for the 3.9/5.2 WP is drain the coolant system.

 

Trouble is, that rarely will drain the block......

 

When my water pump failed at around 167,000kms (100,000 miles or so), it sprayed water in a thin band directly above the fan on the underside of the hood. It was very obvious. When I removed it the bearing was completely toast. There's normally a weep hole below the pulley where you should be able to observe leakage.

 

Where is the bypass hose located? I get a steady stream intermittently. Flushed system multiple times to clean. No leaks, one day later slow drips (not running) steady stream @ idle. Appears to be from pump weep hole.

 

The bypass hose in under the AC unit on my 94 which I think is mostly the same as your 93. Good news you can unbolt it and lay it over to the passenger side w/o having to deal with refrigerant. Bad news you may need to change the water pump. It's involved consider doing the timing chain while you are there, you will have complete access to it.

 

I concur. And while it’s that far, change out the thermostat with an oem.

 

Helpful tip is to put the bolts you remove from the old pump in the new one so you know where they go(they are different lengths). If you don't have a t stat with the air bleed valve drill a small hole in the body it will save you the headache of getting the air out of the system. See post #14 here.

 

I thought of this after I posted. My idea was to draw a crude diagram of the holes and number them then use painters tape to label each one as you take it out. I did a lot of that when doing my plenum. Also one or more of them goes through the water jacket so be prepared for the coolant you can't drain out to come spilling out. Also the front of the oil pan is open to the top when you remove the timing chain cover. You'll have to change the oil too. And if you need tools for the big nuts most parts stores rent them or loan them.