Let me start out by saying I got this idea from looking at this thread in the FAQ section...
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...le-hanger.html
It has been a while since the last post, and since I am new I figured I would contribute to the forum by experimenting with my truck, and I also need to ask a few questions...

My contribution....
First, after reading that thread and looking at my own 2wd rear-end I think I have a game plan to work with. My intention is to remove the stock rivets that attach the shackle hangers to the frame, and keep everything else bolted the way it is currently. Then I am going to just swing the shackle hanger 180 degrees so the shackle now points upward. I will then lift the hanger up toward the stock mounting holes in the frame until one of the stock holes in the hanger aligns with a stock hole in the frame. The I would insert a bolt/washer/nut and slightly tighten it. Just enough so that the hanger will not twist away from the frame, but it can rotate around the bolt.
Do the same thing to the other side of the truck. Then with both hangers connected with one bolt, through the same hole in hanger/frame, use a floor jack to slowly apply pressure to the rear differential (which will rotate the shackle hanger) until the three remaining holes in the hanger are centered on the frame.
Then I was going to measure from the end of the frame rail to the intersection of the hanger bottom and frame rail. This will be my aligning measurement for the other side of truck so that each side has been lowered the same amount.
The remaining three holes will be marked for each hanger, drilled, and bolted together.

Based on my eye measurements it looks like that could lower the truck up to 6" (depending on which stock holes you use in the frame). Honestly I do not want to lower my truck 6" but I think I will tinker with the stock mounting points and see what kind of lowering you could achieve at different stock holes in the frame. I only want to lower the rear maybe 4", then level out the front, which brings me to my questions......

I am new to the Dakota world, and do not know of an affordable lowering packages for the front of the truck. Based on my measurements the rear of my truck is 2.75" higher than the front, so if i lower the rear 4" then I would like to lower the front by at least 1-2". Is there an affordable way to do this (hopefully by swapping used dodge parts from other trucks) or do I need to get lowering springs?

If I have to get lowering springs then I want to increase the spring rate so it will handle better. If I do this, then I might as well lower the rear end a little more than I was planing, then add a leaf to the springs to increase the rear spring rate. I have never done something like this before, so which leaf do you take from the donor truck, and where would I place it in my spring pack?

If I increase the spring rate for better handling I might as well increase the sway bar and replace the stock rubber suspension bushings with something more stiff. Can I take any of this stuff from other donor vehicles?

I want some feedback on this before I start working, so what do you guys think?

Zac

 

You are definately a motivated individual. There are three stock bars that I know of, so really just bust out a tape and go to the junker, and start looking for the 1 1/16th" bar. Polyurethane bushings really provide a better "feel" of the road, but shocks and bars are the key to handling. KYB monomax really are about as stiff as I would recommend before going to race status.

As far as springs go, I assume that you have the option to swap V6 and V8 coils with respect of your engine type. The only "safe" swaps are engineered coils that are not cut, heated, stretched or compressed.

Where are your bump stops over your axle with regard to the "6 inch drop"? The difference would dictate your articulation limits unless you c-clip the frame rails. I looked at that thread you mentioned before, and know that using 4- 9/16ths grade 8 bolts are the minimum that you would need for up to about 60,000 lbs shear (been there done that). Most people do not understand the leaf spring rate design, and others swap out different leaves until they get the quality they are looking for. However, the quality is subjective to the user. If your wanting more load limit, but less articulation (ie stiffer), replacing the longer springs would affect that. If you want more load, but a softer ride, then the shorter springs are what you should be concerned with. A loose rear is better for a truck, so as not to put too much understeer, and anything you change has an impact. Trucks also suffer from snap steering, due to their inherant light rear end. I would look at a rear roll bar before messing with the springs, since they can be easily adjusted, or use a lauch bar to increase the front rate of the rear leaves. The launch bars are adjustable, cheap, and look old school, you know.... for the serious enthusiast.

 

Yes I do like to jump all in once I get a new toy. This truck is actually just a temporary one. I bought it cheap, want to fix it up a little bit and sell it for double. My second truck will also be a 1st gen Dakota but it will have a much better body, so the improvements will be more worth it.

This experiment will kind of just be for fun. I will figure out what kind of changes the hangers can provide, then before I sell the truck I will put it back to stock.

I can't remember what the spacing is on the bump stops, but I know it is pretty far. If i need more movement I can shave down the bump stop a little for more clearance.

I have a v6 2wd so all of my suspension is on the weak side, so swapping for v8 stuff would stiffen the suspension, but would it raise it also?

 

Yes, V8 coils will raise it 1 inch.