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She's Dead Again!

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Old May 2, 2011 | 05:23 PM
  #41  
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The wires, from left to right, with the "tit" up are:

Green Black, Yellow Blue, Red Blue, Grey Black, Grey.

The second color in each above is the stripe.

The Grey could be White but age gives it the color.

Definitely interrupted power to the pump. Just don't know what to do to trace it out. May have been told already. I'll have to backread some.

Thanks.
 
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Old May 2, 2011 | 06:11 PM
  #42  
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word. green black is power. the two grey are probably ground. anyway. you check for voltage on the green black and ther is where you had basically nothing right? if that is the case you have power issues somewhere down that wire. there is a connector near the firewall/brake booster that hooks to that entire lower wire loom. the green/black wire in that is the same green black at the pump. check that entire wire for resistance by unhooking the connector and probing with a DVOM set to Ohms.
 
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Old May 2, 2011 | 06:39 PM
  #43  
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Update. Again.

My brother owns a '93 Dakota that was running fine but hasn't been driven in months. I told him I was going to take something off of it.

"Alright, whatever...."

I took the PCM from it and put in my '92. Cranked and ran every time. Tried it about 10 times. Pump comes on and runs every time.

I still not confident in it though as I supposedly can't test the PCM.

In my thread PCM death, I was having the same problems basically. I replaced it with one from the salvage yard, and it cranked/ran just as it does now for about a week. Even smoothed out a bucking issue I forgot to mention that happened between 40%-75% throttle. Then, dead. And me chasing things.

I have no regrets about replacing sensors & parts 'cause it's been well used, got it cheap, and now have some maintenance done.

Just can't get confidence in the electronic chain necessary to run this vehicle.

Any recommendations for the most durable PCM you can buy? Best companies to deal with? Warranties?

Thanks again everyone.
 

Last edited by 1992DakotaDead; May 2, 2011 at 06:46 PM.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 10:09 AM
  #44  
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my only concern is we dont have evidence to support replacing the PCM at this point. If this fixes it then great I'm glad it's resolved, but it's a dangerous game to just throw parts at it (financially speaking anyway).

Give it a run with the new PCM and see what she does. You may want to exchange the one you purchased if the J Yard will let you.

Let us know what happens.

Cheerz
 

Last edited by issakar; Oct 19, 2011 at 11:59 PM.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 03:37 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by issakar
my only concern is it dont think we dont have evidence to support replacing the PCM at this point. If this fixes it then great I'm glad it's resolved, but it's a dangerous game to just throw parts at it (financially speaking anyway).

Give it a run with the new PCM and see what she does. You may want to exchange the one you purchased if the J Yard will let you.

Let us know what happens.

Cheerz
I kind of agree. Replaced several things that didn't necessarily have enough support to change them, but at the same time the symptoms would guide me toward changing them.

This PCM thing is a real pain in the azz. I've checked other forums and an ASE mechanic that seems pretty knowledgeable with this system says these PCM's are a known & aggravating problem. Pins easily breaking the solder joint in the board, and then that's it....no run.

Plus, there is some sort of mystery shrouding this damm thing. Can't put a test on it or pinpoint the weakness to correct it for the longterm.

Makes no sense. I'll gladly get whatever PCM is necessary. Whatever brand. Even if it's the most expensive. Doesn't matter to me about magical performance in the 1/4 mile, rock crawling, or getting an extra 1 MPG.

I only have one criteria. It does not malfunction for 100,000 miles. There is no reason to not be able to do this.

I've been warned about A1Cardone. Someone in another thread has had good luck with theirs.

Anyway, thanks a TON for all the help here. The schematics provided and dialogue might help others in the future too.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 06:20 PM
  #46  
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before replacing the fuel pump a cheap replacement would be the crank shaft sensor
 
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 07:22 PM
  #47  
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She lives!!!! Then.......she dies!!!!

Reminders:

1992 Dodge Dakota
3.9 V6
AT with OD
Work Truck-Like 150,000+miles


What's been checked or replaced within the last 7,000 miles:

Crank Position Sensor
Hall Effect Sensor in the Distributor
Fuel Pump Replaced
Fuel Filter Replaced
Transmission Fluid and Filter
Red Wire Splice of Doom checked, intact, and zero wear on it.
New battery
Computer Replaced
ASD Relay-Checked/Switched around
Distributor Cap
Coil Replaced
New Wires
New Plugs
New Rotor Contact/Button


Symptoms I'm having now. Crank it and it runs great. Drive it and it runs great ....until you hit between 7 to 10 miles on the odometer. Then it begins to studder, pop, spark-knock. Shut it off, let sit, STILL WARM/HOT, and it cranks smooth again. Recently it died completely and ended up on the hook. Replaced the coil and it runs again, with the exact same symptom. Smooth then de duh duh duh, pop, knock....crawl home.

There is no catalyst on it. (Greenies want to fight about it?)
Took a computer out of another Dakota not giving problems, and have the same symptoms.
No fault codes.

Well, what say you Dakota Gurus????
 
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 09:00 PM
  #48  
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Have you check the fuel pressure? I know you replaced the pump but it kind of sounds like it's starving for fuel.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 09:24 PM
  #49  
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Yes, pressure checked yesterday by mechanic.

Thanks.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 02:36 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 1992DakotaDead

On Craigs right now huntin' a Ford.
Dont let one bad experience ruin your life. NEVER GO FORD! Ford sucks, dont even think about it, or i may be forced to kill you. I have heard of people starting out with ford, but i have never once, in my entire life, seen someone switch from dodge to ford, EVER!
 
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