She's Dead Again!
when it isn't working pop out the fuel pump relay and jump b+ to pin 87 and see if that fires the pump up.
if so then you need to get out the wiring diagrams and go after the harnes from the pcm to the relay starting with checking (pin 30 i think) for a switched ground from the pcm. if you have the ground switching on and off with the key (key off relay off of course) then you may just need a relay. if you can power the pump in that manner then back probe it at the pump and see if it lights up a test light. it's important to keep it plugged in. you need to know if that wire is capable of carring the load to the pump. if its ok then checked the ground. backprobe it at the pump and hook up your test light to bat+ instead of ground. should be lit up. if not the ckt is open run a new ground. if so then power up pin 87 as before the light should remain on. if it goes put run a new wire.
if it rund when you first power up pin 87 at the relay then don't bother checking back at the pump again. also bad pcm power or grand ckts have been know to cause this.
if so then you need to get out the wiring diagrams and go after the harnes from the pcm to the relay starting with checking (pin 30 i think) for a switched ground from the pcm. if you have the ground switching on and off with the key (key off relay off of course) then you may just need a relay. if you can power the pump in that manner then back probe it at the pump and see if it lights up a test light. it's important to keep it plugged in. you need to know if that wire is capable of carring the load to the pump. if its ok then checked the ground. backprobe it at the pump and hook up your test light to bat+ instead of ground. should be lit up. if not the ckt is open run a new ground. if so then power up pin 87 as before the light should remain on. if it goes put run a new wire.
if it rund when you first power up pin 87 at the relay then don't bother checking back at the pump again. also bad pcm power or grand ckts have been know to cause this.
Thank you for the reply. I will have to read it a few times to compensate for my dumbness at times.
I did a couple of things like what isak was talking about. Just had to sort it out simply for myself.
A couple of pictures. One in this post and one in the next due to sizing limits.
First one shows how to alligator clip the pump for a 92 Dodge Dakota V6. This is an AirTex pump. Other pumps have to have the same wiring connection or an adapter to the harness on the truck.
Anyway.....
I did a couple of things like what isak was talking about. Just had to sort it out simply for myself.
A couple of pictures. One in this post and one in the next due to sizing limits.
First one shows how to alligator clip the pump for a 92 Dodge Dakota V6. This is an AirTex pump. Other pumps have to have the same wiring connection or an adapter to the harness on the truck.
Anyway.....
sorry i havn't been able to respond much im in class right now. looking at that photo i feel like the red/black are backwards but the one i serviced had a walbro module. it looks liek your has the airtex (as you stated) and the one you replaced was probably a carter module. I will see if i cant find an alternate diagram for us to use.
Sorry, I would load other pics but this Forum only allows such a small amount of space per individual.
Other Forums you can have hundreds of pics within the Forum.
Maybe DodgeForums has to do it this way. Don't know.
Anyway, clipped the pump and attached it to the battery. Ran without problem.
So by doing this test I know power is intermittent to the end of the wiring harness connection at the pump. Which I'm sure we all suspected.
And by knowing which terminals run the pump, you know which female connections in the wiring harness provide power and their polarity. In this application it is the two outside terminals.
Knowing this I connected the meter to the two outside terminals, set it at 20V-DC, and hit the switch. Went from 0.00 to 0.06 at the highest. Proving once again, power is not getting to the end of the wiring harness.
I believe at this point the "click" or "thump" is power leaving the Power Distribution Center, trying to get to the end of the wiring harness to power the pump, but grounding somewhere before it can complete its journey.
Sound right or wrong?
Thanks.
Other Forums you can have hundreds of pics within the Forum.
Maybe DodgeForums has to do it this way. Don't know.
Anyway, clipped the pump and attached it to the battery. Ran without problem.
So by doing this test I know power is intermittent to the end of the wiring harness connection at the pump. Which I'm sure we all suspected.
And by knowing which terminals run the pump, you know which female connections in the wiring harness provide power and their polarity. In this application it is the two outside terminals.
Knowing this I connected the meter to the two outside terminals, set it at 20V-DC, and hit the switch. Went from 0.00 to 0.06 at the highest. Proving once again, power is not getting to the end of the wiring harness.
I believe at this point the "click" or "thump" is power leaving the Power Distribution Center, trying to get to the end of the wiring harness to power the pump, but grounding somewhere before it can complete its journey.
Sound right or wrong?
Thanks.
Thank you for the reply. I will have to read it a few times to compensate for my dumbness at times.
I did a couple of things like what isak was talking about. Just had to sort it out simply for myself.
A couple of pictures. One in this post and one in the next due to sizing limits.
First one shows how to alligator clip the pump for a 92 Dodge Dakota V6. This is an AirTex pump. Other pumps have to have the same wiring connection or an adapter to the harness on the truck.
Anyway.....
I did a couple of things like what isak was talking about. Just had to sort it out simply for myself.
A couple of pictures. One in this post and one in the next due to sizing limits.
First one shows how to alligator clip the pump for a 92 Dodge Dakota V6. This is an AirTex pump. Other pumps have to have the same wiring connection or an adapter to the harness on the truck.
Anyway.....
Then that can get you going in the right direction.
I have another picture showing the wires going down to the motor/pump, but once again, I can only have one picture on the entire forum for some reason. My camera is set to it's lowest setting possible without using resizing software. I use this setting on other forums where dozens, if not hundreds of pictures are allowed for each individual. There actually is no total size limit.
Very helpful when troubleshooting if it's able to be done here. I know space costs though.
Thanks. There are only 5 pins though.
ok so same thing except 1 2 3 4 5 instead of 1 2 3 4 5 6. consult your photo you took. the black clip and the red clip. is the rec clip attached to the pin that would be plugged into the GR/B wire? The only reason I am asking about this is I dont want things hooked up backwards. As far as I know (and I could be wrong) being that the fuel pump is an electric motor if you hook it up in reverse polarity it would still function (aka "whir") but it would run in the backwards direction. This information is important for us when we go to test the "good" pump and all.
you still need to check for resistance down the circuit for the fuel pump. It sounds like you have a bad wire somewhere in the line if you are only getting .6v or whatever on the green/black wire in the fuel pump connector.


