1992 Dodge Dakota, V6, AT.

She no run. Went out tonight, cranked, ran, 5 seconds, dead. No "whir" at the fuel pump at all when turning key to on. I know it's supposed to be heard a couple of seconds. I have heard it in the past. Nothing now. Just a "click" back there.

No codes.

Thinking fuel pump. What brand is the best? Just want reliable. Not going racing.

Thanks for all input.

 

diagnose and verify it is the pump before replacing it. I made that simple (and EXPENSIVE) mistake last summer before i knew anything (not that I know much now, lol)

Check for power to the fuel pump would be a good step 1. A test light would be a simple enough check to do. Connect the test light clamp to a good ground (frame would be best in this case). Unhook the fuel pump connector under the bed and probe the number 1 pin with the test light. If it lights up you know there is power to the pump. If it lights up but is very dim then you could have resistance in the wire not allowing proper voltage to make it to the pump. This was my problem in the end.

Beyond that, if you replace the pump you can go to NAPA and get one. Personally I went to Auto Zone and picked up the airtek replacement pump. It was about $200. Haven't heard really anything good or bad about it and so far things have worked fine (granted I don't regularly drive the truck. It has been sitting for the winter, but it starts right up when i crank the key)

Hope some of this helps!

 

Thanks! I have been looking around the net and have not read positive reviews about AirTex Fuel Pumps. I don't mind paying double for a good pump. The downtime, aggravation, and doing things twice is the killer for me.

Don't know if I have a proper 12V test light setup. I have several multimeters though. I could probably set one up with some clips, set it by the door, and crank. Watch for voltage. Sound right?

Where is the "number 1 pin" in the harness you mention?

Thanks.

 

What I have done is used a fused jumper wire, removed the fuel pump relay in the PDC and supplied direct battery voltage to the circuit after i disconnect the fuel pump connector. No cranking required at that point. That process will help you determine if you are even getting power down the line. If that tests good and all is well with battery voltage to the pump, it may not be a bad idea to swap the relay just in case it is bad. you can swap it with any other one in the PDC as long as it is not necessary (aka dont use the Auto Shut Down relay)

you could set a meter to volts, connect the positive lead to the pin 1 on the connector and connect the negative lead to the frame of the truck. make sure to clean up any rust on the frame where you are trying to ground the meter to ensure a good connection. you should read right near battery voltage (within 0.2v) on the meter.

If you grab a diagram for the pining on the pump it'll help you determine pin 1. If i remember correctly when you pull the connector if you look at it with the locking tab facing up it is in the top left corner of the connector. Please double check this before performing the test as occasionally my memory fails me. I have a post somewhere on the forum that has the pining diagram i believe.

Lemme know if you have any other questions.

 

Thanks again. Very much appreciated. I'll poke around for your post and any wiring diagrams.

I don't know why, but I went out just to look at some things, jumped in, turned to on, heard the pump whir as it should this time.....and she fired and ran fine.

Earlier this evening, it cranked, ran for about 5 seconds, then died.

I hit the switch again during this and did not get any "whir" but did get "click" sound. And it did sound from the tank area. Not underhood.

Just some more or restated info for anyone. Makes me think the pump is getting power, but about to stop working. Could also be an intermittent short somewhere as well I guess.

That'll have me beating my head on the ground again.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

Ok, here's what I have happening if anyone can help.

The truck will sometimes start/run and sometimes not. There is no rhyme or reason too it. Temperature, long trip. short trip, or anything like that.

Sometimes the pump would "whir" at startup, and sometimes not. Obviously, when it didn't, it would not start and run.

Go out some other time. Start and run fine. When running and driving it never seemed starved for fuel either. Even if you floored it.

I replaced the pump as I have been told this randomness start symptom is often the pump.

Put the cable on, hit the switch, hear the whir, all good.

Put the tools away....go hit the switch, no whir, no run.

There is something that I think is important that I'm not sure what to do about. The "whir" of the pump (when things are working right) is a certain amount of time when you turn the switch on. Maybe 2 to 3 seconds. When I have a situation of "no whir", I get a click back there underneath, consistently, at about the 2 to 3 second mark.

Questions:

How do you test the Auto Shut Down relay?

How do you test the Fuel Pump relay?



Thanks for any ideas. I got to get this truck rolling.

 

Update:

Right or wrong, I swapped the Auto Shut Down relay with the starter relay. Never had a problem with it starting.

Starts, but won't run.

Thanks.

 

What would cause intermittent power to the fuel pump with the ASD and Fuel Pump relays operating correctly?

It's got one more week. Then that may be it for it.

On Craigs right now huntin' a Ford.

 

Have you checked the splices under the PDC? Check the FAQ in this section for details.

 

Yes. ZERO corrosion.

Is there a camshaft position sensor in a 1992 Dakota?

Thanks.