There is the relay that clicks within that time frame. i don't think this clicking that you are hearing is the problem. That being said it is impossible to say without being there to experience the noise first hand.

have you tried direct power to the pump yet? that is the easiest thing to do right now to determine if the pump is functional or not. if the pump is working it will come on when you do this. dont let it go too long if it does lol :-o

 

Well, the only way for me to do that is to:

Disconnect the fuel filler neck.
Disconnect the vent return.
Siphon the tank.
Drop the tank.
Then attempt to jumper it.

UGH!

I cannot get to the connector on the pump at all to do any testing or probing.

I can only get the wiring harness off by laying under one side and pushing my arm up and over too it in one space. Then rolling on my stomach to get my thumb and forefinger in position to release the clip. I never even see it. Just by feel removing and replacing it.

Just to restate so you might not have to read back. What's been done:

Replaced:

Crank position sensor.
Hall effect sensor.
The Auto Shutdown Relay.
PCM (Salvage Yard)
Fuel Pump
Checked the wire splice. It looks new. I've spliced before on other projects.
There are no fault codes.

Yesterday, I replaced the fuel pump. It cranked and ran great. Moved it, put the tools away, went in and washed up.

Now it will not run at all.

Thanks for reading and helping.

 

Interesting,

I didn't have to go about all that to test mine. i was able to reach up from the side near the wheel well and unplug the harness;on the pump were pins i was able to hook alligator clips on to for testing purposes.
you could try the same thing by backprobing the harness and direct feed the backprobe pin with the relay removed from the system.

 

Thanks. I'll try some more testing and report back soon.

Driving me crazy man.

 

Ok, new test and results:

Remember, I changed the fuel pump. 1) To eliminate it as a problem 2) The fuel gauge was not working. Someone had installed it with the float jammed against the wall.

Well, I still have the old fuel pump. I plugged the wiring harness into it. Turned the switch. It whirred to life just as it should. Cut the switch off. Tried it again and it whirred to life again just as it should. Tried it a third time. No whir. Dead like before. And still dead after more tries.

Just as well to laugh as to cry I suppose.

 

right. so i'm telling you it's something with that wiring in the loom. this is the EXACT same problem I was running into with mine. since you have the old pump out, jump a wire from the battery positive to the pin 1 on the old pump and a wire from the ground on the pump to battery negative. it'll kick on every time you hook and unhook a wire.

You should still test for voltage drop at the harness connector to verify the issue but it sounds like the pump isn't getting proper power. you want to find out where this problem exists but I bet it is in the lower loom.

Check voltage at that pump connector and it should be 12v. if it is not, you have bad wiring somewhere in the loom or before it.

Do these tests and post back.

cheerz

 

Thanks. I'll do those tests as you say next. I have to ask again though the exact places to connect wires.

I know you've given explanations and even diagrams. I get confused though.

Sorry.

For the pump test.

Can't I take the pump to the battery and just alligator there? If facing the pump wiring connections, I connect the positive to the far right pin?

Number 5 out of 5 counting from left to right.

If looking at the wiring harness with the "tit" up, you say to check for power at the 1 pin female connection. The corresponding pin on the pump would then be the far right 5 pin. Right?

And then where do you connect the ground?

For the power to harness test.

I just stick the positive probe in the harness at the left 1 female connection when looking into the harness with the "tit" up. Right?

Then just make a clean ground at the frame. Right?

And then turn to on. Should get 12V.

Just want to do it right so as not to give false results.

I've followed the wiring harness from the pump all the way to the engine bay. 2 wires branch out of it and connect to the body just above the Power Center. Then it circles into the Firewall. Then I believe it returns into the Power Center.


Thanks.

 

is the pump module a walbro? there is usually a blue "walbro" label or ring and the electrical connector has 6 pins total, 3 on top of 3.

 

No. It is an Airtex. I know they can be problematic.

It has single row, 5 pin male connections.

The wiring harness on the truck has single row, 5 pin female connections.

Thanks.

 

Here is a picture of the wiring harness if it helps. This is what connects to the fuel pump on my 1992 Dodge Dakota with a V6/3.9.

Thanks.