Transmission Delays
#1
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Same 1992, new problem. ![Icon Smash](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smash.gif)
Transmission problem recently has shown up. Reverse has a long delay before engagement. Right out of nowhere too. I haven't timed it but it could easily be 10 seconds or more.
Forward, no problems I'm aware of. Ready to go as soon as you engage it.
Haven't changed any fluid or filter yet. Looks pink/red and in good condition on the stick. (Running temperature, in neutral, level ground.)
Even tried putting it in Neutral to maybe get the fluid moving, make a few phone calls, then put it in Reverse. Delay, delay, clunk. Away we go.
Ideas?
Thanks.
![Icon Smash](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smash.gif)
Transmission problem recently has shown up. Reverse has a long delay before engagement. Right out of nowhere too. I haven't timed it but it could easily be 10 seconds or more.
Forward, no problems I'm aware of. Ready to go as soon as you engage it.
Haven't changed any fluid or filter yet. Looks pink/red and in good condition on the stick. (Running temperature, in neutral, level ground.)
Even tried putting it in Neutral to maybe get the fluid moving, make a few phone calls, then put it in Reverse. Delay, delay, clunk. Away we go.
Ideas?
Thanks.
#2
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Here is a transmission Diagnostic chart. See if your problem is listed. The link is in the FAQ in this section.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...agnostics.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...agnostics.html
Last edited by Crazy4x4RT; 05-13-2011 at 01:49 PM.
#4
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Just an update if anyone is interested.
Found the pan leaking & fluid low. So I changed the gasket & filter. Replaced fluid to right level.
No metal in pan to speak of. I haven't had it done long enough to know if I've helped it or not.
Just a tip I've gotten from others. DON'T use the flimsy rubber gasket when doing this. You can get a better one from the dealer or from auto parts stores for a few dollars more. Worth it in my opinion.
Found the pan leaking & fluid low. So I changed the gasket & filter. Replaced fluid to right level.
No metal in pan to speak of. I haven't had it done long enough to know if I've helped it or not.
Just a tip I've gotten from others. DON'T use the flimsy rubber gasket when doing this. You can get a better one from the dealer or from auto parts stores for a few dollars more. Worth it in my opinion.
#5
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UPDATE:
Same problem still going on.
Changed the pan gasket, filter and fluid.
Old fluid looked great. New fluid didn't look much better than the old. No "wear smell" to speak of with the old either.
No metal to speak of in the pan. Very little on the magnet. Small amount of what looks like metallic powder rather than shavings.
Symptoms Again:
From cold start, put it in reverse, nothing. Just sounds like it is in Park. I've wiggled the gear selector, put it in Neutral and let it run awhile, then went back to reverse. Nothing.
Now, if you begin to give it gas while in reverse, at some point it engages with a thunk. ('Cause after all, I'm probably at 800 or more RPM when it engages.)
If you put it in drive, it engages right out of the gate. No delay.
Good switching and lockup when driving.
Finally after nervously getting it to engage with the thunk, it will engage every time normally. Everything works fine like nothing is wrong.
I've looked over the symptoms/fixes linked here. Just wondering if someone else has had this and could you localize it more with my description because the symptoms/fixes list gives you 5 or more things to look into.
Thanks for any ideas.
Same problem still going on.
Changed the pan gasket, filter and fluid.
Old fluid looked great. New fluid didn't look much better than the old. No "wear smell" to speak of with the old either.
No metal to speak of in the pan. Very little on the magnet. Small amount of what looks like metallic powder rather than shavings.
Symptoms Again:
From cold start, put it in reverse, nothing. Just sounds like it is in Park. I've wiggled the gear selector, put it in Neutral and let it run awhile, then went back to reverse. Nothing.
Now, if you begin to give it gas while in reverse, at some point it engages with a thunk. ('Cause after all, I'm probably at 800 or more RPM when it engages.)
If you put it in drive, it engages right out of the gate. No delay.
Good switching and lockup when driving.
Finally after nervously getting it to engage with the thunk, it will engage every time normally. Everything works fine like nothing is wrong.
I've looked over the symptoms/fixes linked here. Just wondering if someone else has had this and could you localize it more with my description because the symptoms/fixes list gives you 5 or more things to look into.
Thanks for any ideas.
#6
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if it only does it when it's cold, chances are your torque converter drainback valve has failed. Before you start it up first in the morning, check the fluid level in the transmission. If it's significantly overfilled, the drainback valve is bad. It's mounted on the cooler pressure line just before the radiator. It's going to cost $100 on average from the dealer (it actually comes as the cooler line assembly).
#7
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if it only does it when it's cold, chances are your torque converter drainback valve has failed. Before you start it up first in the morning, check the fluid level in the transmission. If it's significantly overfilled, the drainback valve is bad. It's mounted on the cooler pressure line just before the radiator. It's going to cost $100 on average from the dealer (it actually comes as the cooler line assembly).
Also, does anyone have a picture of one? I mean the drainback valve and it's location. I have lines going in the bottom of the radiator. Both are at the same level in the radiator. One on the passenger side, one on the drivers side. Which line would it go in and which direction of flow?
Part#? Website?
And wouldn't running it in Neutral for awhile (at least a solid minute) defeat the purpose of a working drainback valve?
Boy that's alot of questions!
Thanks for all the help.
Last edited by 1992DakotaDead; 05-17-2011 at 04:39 PM.
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#8
#9
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Although hardened/swollen seals will cause a delay in engaging gears, I had the same exact thing happen to me and when I replaced the converter drainback valve, I never had that problem again and my transmission had been rebuilt before by the previous owner. If you still want to know where the drainback valve is located, I took a picture of it on my truck; I have a 1995 V6, it should be similar for your truck.
#10
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[QUOTE=1992DakotaDead;2506584]Quoted rebuild of the transmission by someone recommended that is supposed to know what they are doing:
$1800.00
More than it's worth.
I think I'll be throwing the truck away and just let it be a lesson learned.
QUOTE]
agree, when my 90's tranny goes will do the same. try getting some type of snake oil addative and try it just might help. i had a rear engine seal leak in a 92 jeep and put some STP snake oil in and it worked.
check this out
http://lucasoil.hodgsoncorp.com/slip...ansmission.htm
$1800.00
More than it's worth.
I think I'll be throwing the truck away and just let it be a lesson learned.
QUOTE]
agree, when my 90's tranny goes will do the same. try getting some type of snake oil addative and try it just might help. i had a rear engine seal leak in a 92 jeep and put some STP snake oil in and it worked.
check this out
http://lucasoil.hodgsoncorp.com/slip...ansmission.htm