searched high and low around here but cant find what im looking for. truck is '96 dakota 4x4 3.9 engine, manual trans. replaced my front axle seals and bearings. got the lower ball joints in. got the upper ball joints but havent put them in yet. want to replace upper control arm bushings first. got the upper arm off and old bushings out. they were a mother to get out. anyways how the hek do i get the new ones in ?? ruined a new set trying to beat them in. had to go buy more new bushings. im guessing they need to be pressed in some how but i dont see how because that long bolt has to go through the middle. i really need help how to get these new bushings in without destroying anything.


im going to tear out the timing chain and water pump also. is there a first gen dakota DIY write up on exactly what parts i need to buy and how to do the procedure and any special tools i might need ??

1- timing chain/gears and gasket
2- chain tensioner
3- water pump and gasket
4- big bypass hose
5- thermostat and gasket


is there also some kind of front crankshaft seal i need ?? any other stuff i might need ? thnx any help is apreciated

 

Yes they get pressed in. Take it to your local automotive machine shop they can do it. $10 each control arm, and you don't have to do it.

It is best to download the service manual that is in the FAQ. It has all the details you will need for the jobs you need. The timing chain will be very involved.

 

I actually buttoned up this job last night. Special tools will be a harmonic balancer puller and maybe a timing sprocket puller. Aside from that, get a timing set (gears and chain); timing case gasket set, will have water pump gasket, timing case cover, front seal for the crank/harmonic balancer, and a repair sleeve if your balance has a groove worn in it; there is no chain tensioner, it goes on tight; water pump (gasket is in the timing gasket set); thermostat and gasket; and the bypass hose.
Pull the rad, the belts, water pump, balancer and lower pulley(when using the puller, install the crank bolt a couple good turns and pull off the bolt, DO NOT PULL AGAINST THE CRANK SNOUT, I learned my lesson the hard way), timing case cover (need to move the alternator, maybe a/c idk mine doesn't have it) and pull the cover. They say to line up the timing marks on the sprockets, however they only slip on one way and if you are gentle and don't move the cam and line up the keyways, just slip the new sprockets and chain on and your timing will be fine. Scrape all the old gaskets off, tap or pry out the old front seal, replace by tapping in with a block of wood and hammer, rtv all gaskets with a thin tack coat and reinstall everything. When done, change your oil, you will probably have gotten antifreeze in there since you opened the water jackets and the timing cover dumps into the oil pan.

 

ill probly call around and see if a shop can press them in. and i did dload the service manual. just wanted to see if there was any tricks not covered in the manual.

 

thnx for the help. couple questions though.

1- i thought some of the aftermarket timing chain sets used a tensioner plate that goes behind the gears ? maybe only certain gear/chain sets use the tensioner ? dont want to mess with this chain again for 100k miles so whats the best chain/gears to use preferably under $100 ?
you think this would be good choice or no ? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0422&ppt=C0141

2- i found the timing cover gasket set your talking about. has all the gaskets, seal and repair sleeve. what exactly is the repair sleeve and its purpose ?

3- certainly this job has to be easier than the one im working on now. front axle seals, bearings, control arm bushings and ball joints. you think im looking at 2 days on the chain, gears, water pump project ? gonna start in a few days. just wondering what kind of time im looking at.

 

another question. is the a1cardone remanufactured waterpumps any good ? ill say it again i dont want to have to mess with this vehicle again for a long time. lol

service manuals seems confusing. do i only need to loosen the front 2 oil pan bolts ?

 

Sorry I didn't check back on this.
The set you have there looks like the set I got. A cloyes double roller set, I got mine from napa in a napa brand box (with cloyes instructions in the box) for $60. Cloyes is a good name brand. The repair sleeve is for the harmonic ballancer where it slips into the front seal. Many times, the seal wears a groove into the balancer and the new seal won't seal right on that groove, so you slip the repair sleeve over the ballancer and the seal now has a nice uniform surface to seal against. I got this job done in about 10 hours or so. Honestly, 2 days should be more than enough, just be meticulous and pay attention, just like any other job and it will go well.

Now A1Cardone should make a decent pump, but I don't have any personal experience. I do know they have a decent reputation from what I've heard. As for the oil pan bolts, the front 2 pan bolts go upward into the bottom of the timing case cover. You need to REMOVE them to remove the cover.

Good luck! Any more questions I'd be glad to help if I can.

 

I used a long bolt, a nut and big washers, lube up bushing, and grab and socket and wrench, for future ref if u don't want to go to shop

 

^Do you mean to install the front seal with the cover still on the truck?

 

ok but how did you get the other bushing in with the bolt in there that attaches to the frame ? im gonna call a few shops and see if they can do it. shouldnt be more than a few bucks and a few minutes for a suspension shop. im tired of messing with it. already ruined one set of new bushings.