Just need to check with you guys
My 95 Dakota sport quit on me just as I was parking. It won't start now, and there's no pressure at the fuel rail. I can hear the relay engage when I turn the key to run, but no pump sounds. I figure it's the fuel pump as it looks to be original. The fuel gauge doesn't work anyway, so it'd be nice to replace it.
The only thing troubling me is that I lost my tachometer 2 days before this. Just suddenly stopped working. Could this be a hit of some other problem than the pump? Since the Fuel pump relay is working, it or the ASD relay must be getting the signal from the PCM, and swapping relays made no difference anyway.
Just like to get a warm fuzzy before I start working tomorrow.
The only thing troubling me is that I lost my tachometer 2 days before this. Just suddenly stopped working. Could this be a hit of some other problem than the pump? Since the Fuel pump relay is working, it or the ASD relay must be getting the signal from the PCM, and swapping relays made no difference anyway.
Just like to get a warm fuzzy before I start working tomorrow.
Yes it could be the pump or just some wiring issues. First verify the Fuel pump relay is engaging and that it is putting out the correct power. Next go to the tank and check that the pump is getting correct voltage. If needed the service manual in the FAQ has full wiring diagrams.
Update:
Well I pulled the bed back and replaced the fuel pump and wouldn't you know, I manage to break off the hose from the pressure relief/overflow valve from the old pump that I'm supposed to use on the new pump!
Waiting to see if epoxy will do the trick here. I'm guessing there's very little pressure involved for this, but I don't want vapor leaking under the bed. Why wouldn't they include this with the pump anyway. Oh well.
Update 2:
I have fuel pressure again! pump is running, but the engine still won't start. No codes being thrown either. I was worried about this since the engine quit so suddenly. Splices under the block look good, but if someone could help with the specific splice I'm looking for, I could redo it just to be sure. This is our only transportation, and I have to have it fixed for monday. Oy.
Well I pulled the bed back and replaced the fuel pump and wouldn't you know, I manage to break off the hose from the pressure relief/overflow valve from the old pump that I'm supposed to use on the new pump!
Waiting to see if epoxy will do the trick here. I'm guessing there's very little pressure involved for this, but I don't want vapor leaking under the bed. Why wouldn't they include this with the pump anyway. Oh well.
Update 2:
I have fuel pressure again! pump is running, but the engine still won't start. No codes being thrown either. I was worried about this since the engine quit so suddenly. Splices under the block look good, but if someone could help with the specific splice I'm looking for, I could redo it just to be sure. This is our only transportation, and I have to have it fixed for monday. Oy.
Last edited by RawDog; Oct 29, 2011 at 03:34 PM.
Well I tried a timing light, and then a spark tester and there doesn't appear to be a spark. I had posted about a strange problem back in July where it would stop running, and after a couple minutes start up again. that lasted for two days, and then went away entirely for a heck of a lot of miles. I think that issue must have come back, and the fuel pump was coincidental. crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft sensor I guess.
I'm just updating this for the benefit of others who might search on this subject.
Not getting a spark from the coil either. since two of the diagnostic procedures for the coil end up sending you to the OBD for a code, and there's no code, it's either the coil or the PCM. Correct me if Im wrong here.
Not getting a spark from the coil either. since two of the diagnostic procedures for the coil end up sending you to the OBD for a code, and there's no code, it's either the coil or the PCM. Correct me if Im wrong here.
disconnected and reconnected the coil's power connector, and the truck started right up. Guess I found the source of the original intermittent issue. I also managed to screw up the float somehow and the gauge is now on permanent "empty" instead of permanent "1/4". Oh well, we're used to that one anyway. I'm getting sloppy in my old age I guess.
I'm glad you got it. The sending unit needs to be rotated where the float can move freely up and down.
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If you are wondering what the placement of the pump on the tank looks like, you can refer to my link here... not sure what year your truck is?
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-friendly.html
oxy
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-friendly.html
oxy



