Hello all I am new here. I recently purchased a 1995 2.5L Dakota Sport from my father.

Recently I replaced my spark plugs with OEM Copper Champions, plug wires and a new Distributor cap. It was pretty dimly lit when I did this and didn't notice that the round black sensor that sits between the Cap and Distributor body wasn't lined up with the Cap screw holes. The holes in the sensor line up with the holes in the cap and I didn't screw it on in line with the Cap.

So I eventually realized this issue, AFTER... I had rotated the distributor trying to correct the misfire I had issued to my motor... I read the post about how rotating the Distributor affects the Fuel Sync (or however you prefer to word it) and I am not looking to argue that point/opinion/fact, I just want to know what to do now.

I had access to old scan tools while I was in college, but not anymore and I really don't know if they sell modern versions that would hook up and show me the fuel information to set it correctly. I have it very close by driving and listening, but it is still off and it bothers me. I have a very small misfire now instead of the big one I created originally.

Thanks in advance, I love this truck, and I really hate that I screwed it up like this. I'd like to fix it before I go into surgery for a hernia this weekend or next week.

 

not sure exactly, crazy would probably. shouldnt be that bad

 

You need a scan to to set it properly. I've done it with my Snap-on Solus Pro. I don't know which other ones can do it other than the DRB III. If you don't have access to a scan tool, take it to a shop and pay someone to do it.

A.J.

 

I had to look up for the 4 cly in the service manual we got in the FAQ (A few posts above this one) that you can download for free.

You DON'T need the DRBII to set it even on the Magnums you don't need it (but it helps to set the fuel sync correctly).

Here is a copy and paste from the 95 Dodge Dakota manual.

(4) Start engine and run until normal operating
temperature is obtained.
(a) If using the DRB scan tool: Connect the DRB
tool. Refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic
Procedures service manual.
(b) If not using the DRB tool: Disconnect the
coolant temperature sensor (Fig. 16). When the
sensor is disconnected, the radiator (electrical) cooling
fan should operate and the malfunction indicator
lamp (displayed on the instrument panel as the
CHECK ENGINE lamp—figure 17) should be lit.
(5) Aim timing light at timing scale (Fig. 15) on
the transmission dust cover, or read magnetic timing
unit. If flash occurs when timing mark is before specified
degree mark, timing is advanced. To adjust,
turn distributor housing in direction of rotor rotation.
If flash occurs when timing mark is after specified
degree mark, timing is retarded. To adjust, turn distributor
housing against direction of rotor rotation.
Refer to Vehicle Emission Control Information label
(under vehicle hood) for correct timing specification.
If timing is within 62 degrees of value specified on
the label, proceed to step (7). If outside specified tolerance,
proceed to next step.
(6) Loosen distributor hold-down arm screw just
enough so the distributor housing can be rotated
(Fig. 18). Turn distributor housing until specified
timing is reached. Tighten the hold-down arm screw
and recheck timing.

 

Using the 4 cylinder method won't work for the V-8. The 4 cylinders have the fuel sync and spark sync in the same hall effect in the distributor. The V-8's trigger the spark from the crank sensor off the flywheel and the fuel sync is in the hall effect in the distributor.

A.J.

 

Okay thanks crazy. So when I'm using the timing light which pulley has the timing mark on it to line up with the marks on the tranny case? Is it the pulley under the timing belt cover? I've yet to find the marks on the tranny cover or a timing mark on any exposed pulleys. I haven't had much time to look over the entire engine. As I said I'm prepping for a hernia surgery next week hopefully haha

 

I never said anything about using the 4cly method for the V8. The OP has a 2.5 4cly that is why I posted about 4cly.

The only thing I said about the Magnums is you don't HAVE TO use the DRBII to set it. You can just line up the #1 cly to TDC and line up the rotor to the #1 mark on the pickup coil. I did say yes it is better to use the DRBII to get the fuel sync correct, but if you don't the engine will run just fine as long as it is all set properly.



Right now I'm not on my home PC so I can't post up a picture. But check out the manual we have in the FAQ it has all the info you need along with pictures.

 

Alright. Ill download it as soon as I get off work. Thanks again.

 

Okay I see now. There is a little black cover over the timing marks on the tranny dust cover, that is why I couldn't find it, and the mark is on the inside of the transmission, it spins and if it doesn't land where it needs to be then I adjust the distributor. It's really quite simple, now if I can just find my damn timing light.

 

Oops, I missed that. I assumed (assumption being the mother of all f-up's) that he was working on a V-8.

A.J.