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Random front end shaking very bad - 89 Dakota - HELP!

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  #11  
Old 02-17-2013, 09:08 AM
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Thanks for the feedback Sprag. Some of you may remember my original thread when I got this truck. Never the less it sat for almost 4 or 5 years. Now that I think about it one of the axle boots is torn on the passenger side where it goes into hub assembly.

I'm not sure if they are a "u joint" type. However it wouldn't hurt to replace it since it's clearly damaged.

If anyone can spread any insight on the four wheel drive issue I mentioned about that would be great. I did some re-reading though that may help myself.

In the following link it states some information about the 4 vacuum lines on that switch on the transfer case. 2 go up to the front axle. 1 goes to the motor. 1 goes to the canister in the rear. If only 1 goes to the motor it's safe to assume it's connected properly up there and it should be a problem in the line that goes to the switch from the front axle. If my thinking is correct I should be able to disconnect both lines. Have someone on one end while I gently spray some compressed air into each line. Perhaps it will below some crud out. If not the line must be the issue. I'm really hoping this isn't the case as it appears to run into steel lines above the transmission, drive shaft, transfer case, etc.

http://www.walt-n-ingrid.com/modifications.html

If I had vacuum in both after replacing the switch I'd know to replace the diaphragm up front.
 
  #12  
Old 02-17-2013, 09:26 AM
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I had a hunch these were CV Joint type axles but wasn't sure. I've only owned three Dakotas, all 1st Gen, 2WD and in the small 2 man shop I work at, we haven't seen a Dak in for service in ages (other than my toilets of course) but countless Rams/Jeeps/GM/Ford for front end work.
I would plan on replacing the CV boot asap and give it a close look at that time, maybe something is fragged in there.
 
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:53 AM
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When you mention "u joint" what were you referring to? In this thread it mentions if the Universal Joint is bad or worn it will cause mechanical vibration under almost all speeds.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1947777-post6.html

Is that the passenger side CV Joint found at the link below?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...=26497_0_12553_
 
  #14  
Old 02-17-2013, 10:35 AM
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After some more reading it appears the U Joint I mentioned in the thread above is on the drive shaft. It seems the cv joints in this Dakota have the tripod joint. I never have luck replacing just the boot. Maybe I'll just replace the complete cv joint. Also will look at the j joints on the drive shaft to see if I see anything odd. Too bad it wasn't a bit warmer outside. ha
 
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:51 PM
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Just to update this thread on the 4WD problems.

After replacing the vacuum switch my front CAD was still not disconnecting. I finally took the lines off up front and in the rear. Blew threw some compressed air. I then disconnected the front rubber lines from the steel lines as one wasn't passing air. Shoved the WD40 straw in and gave it a few blasts. Put it back together with more compressed air. Finally I took the WD40 straw on the vacuum actuator up front. Both seemed to be pretty clogged. Sprayed more WD40 and I was able to get the straw down to the bottom of both holes. Put it all back together and she's now working as designed!

The 4WD can be a little finicky as to when it's locked and when it's engaged. I did some reading before and someone mentioned you may have to drive in forward or reverse while pulling it in and out for it to release up front. This surely did the trick on multiple times. The old girl pulled up the local logging road in 4WH no problem. Came back down in 4WL perfect. At the bottom popped it in 2WD. Back up a little. Forward a little and the indicator light went off. Gave her a little gas and the back end broke loose. I'm very happy this has finally been resolved. I'm looking for improved gas millage and peace of mind knowing when I'm in 2WH on dry roads.

I got the front passenger side axle today. If it's not too cold, above 30 degree F, I plan on installing it tomorrow to see if that resolves the random death shake I've been having.

Btw, under the truck the drive shaft and transaxle U joints seemed alright. No play that I could determine by rotating them. I'll post up more feedback when I get it as this thread may help someone in the future.
 
  #16  
Old 02-18-2013, 05:09 PM
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I have an update for anyone following this thread.

I replaced he CV joint / passenger side axle. Mine was in worse shape than I thought. The boot was torn completely around and there was no grease what so ever on the inner tri joint.

While under the truck I looked over the grease points that I didn't know existed before. Wow are there ever loads. Upper and lower ball joint. Inner and outer tie rod. One on each of the steering arms (if that's what you call them). A few also on the drive shaft pieces. Some of which I couldn't grease as there wasn't an exposed nipple. All of the joints were way out of grease. I added until they felt firm. Doing so I noticed the passenger side tie rod has a slight hole in the one ball joint. I have my doubts this is what the problem was as there was no side to side movement. However all the joints being dry and that bad CV joint could have been the culprit.

I drove the truck for about 7 miles after I was finished. No shake what so ever. I plan on getting the tie rod replaced. However I didn't realize until looking up the parts that the inner and outer tie rod are separate pieces. It appears they are 8 dollars each. I may just buy 4 new ones and have the garage that will do the alignment install them since they must loosen them for the alignment.

I'll drive the truck some more this week and report back.

Thanks to everyone on dodgeforum.com!
 
  #17  
Old 02-21-2013, 06:37 PM
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I had Same issue, the pitman arm was bad. Give it a wiggle up down side to side to make sure it is bad. Ally think about it. Only so many things can fail with the steering, ball joints ( jack up on the control arm to check these) , tie rod ends, pit,an arm, sterling pump, actuator thingy. You should really try th e jacking up on the control arm onece you have the front on jack stands, jack until that side starts to lift up. Look at the joints while jacking. And then wiggle it a bunch while it's on the jack, you may see some movement.
 



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