Hi everyone.

So i finally got my trans temp gauge installed a while ago. I Just t'd into the output line going to the cooler in the radiator (which then runs to my aux cooler and back to the trans).

My question is what are the normal operating temps on these transmissions? Its been cold for the most part since i installed it and the gauge wasnt getting up past 120ish unless i was out playing in the snow or something like that...

Now its starting to warm up and the other day while off road in some really sticky mud, it climber to about 250ish... (lots of long high revs and barely moving) Just curious what is "Normal" and what temp should i start to be really concerned about overheating the fluid and trans?

I think i want to get a larger more effecient cooler with a t-stat controlled fan in the future, but if im not running too hot now i may put it off longer.

Also, What is the best way to add a cooler? Should it be inline before the stock cooler in the radiator or after? I currently have mine after the radiator, figuring with that it will cool/warm as necessary (get closest to the trucks operating temp) and then further cool when it hits the aux cooler.

 

250 is probably right around the max you would ever want to see your trans temp. It doesn't matter how big your cooler is if you aren't moving. I wouldn't be surprised if the coolant was getting up in the 250 range as well in those conditions.

If you don't have an electric fan for the radiator yet, get one that can move a lot of air and put the trans cooler on the front of the radiator right in the middle of the fan. The electric fan that came on an early ford taurus will pull more air than you will ever need and can be had for only a couple bucks at the junkyard. I have mine set to low for normal driving and towing and then have a toggle switch to switch it to high when i'm wheeling.

 

yes the coolant temp was getting up there as well ( just judging by the stock gauge being up on the higher portion or the "normal" range)

I want to do an electric fan install and when i get a larger, better cooler i want to put an electric fan on it as well...

my current cooler is a tube and fin style and is very small. i think its like 4" x 9"...my buddy actually gave me the cooler off his older chevy pickup (dunno if it was added or stock its a early 80s chevy) I flushed it out, rinsed it out and flushed it through some more with some good atf+4 first before install as well...

Is there any good write ups for the taurus fan install? How difficult would it be to put a t-stat controlled switch for high and low?

the trans cooler and fan im looking at getting are the Hayden 679 cooler and hayden 3670 fan kit...

Anyone have experience with these?

Another question that just popped into my head, do our stock fans on these trucks push the air out the radiator (from engine bay to outside of truck), or suck air in through the radiator (pull outside air into the engine bay)

Which would be the best way to do it with my trans cooler fan when i get it?

thanks in advance

 

You want the biggest transmission cooler you can fit and you don't want to run it through the radiator at all. Under normal driving conditions, the transmissions I've installed aux coolers on and didn't run them through the radiator, run about 140*F. If you plumb your transmission through the radiator first you're heating your 140* transmission fluid up to 200*-210* (normal engine operating temp) and then cooling it back down when you run it through the aux cooler. If you're in snow country you might want to go through the radiator if you trans never warms up in the winter. 250* is WAY to hot.

My trans cooler install:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...r-install.html

My trans gauge install:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ory-gauge.html

My electric fan install using a 2 speed Volvo fan:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...n-install.html

 

I live in iowa, so in the winter i think its necessary to get it warmed up via the radiator cooler... now that its getting warmer tho it isnt necessary LOL....

I wonder if there is some sort of bypass switch/valve i can put in so i can easily have it flow through the radiator in the winter, and not in the summer without having to disconnect/connect different hoses back and forth.. guess that is something to look into. Has anyone else thought of/do something like this?

I think for now tho with it warming up i will just remove the connections to the radiator cooler...

In normal driving conditions it seems to only run about the 120/140 range...

its the offroad/mud that seems to really get it warm quick...

 

a bypass valve would be a good idea if the fluid doesn't warm up fast in the winter. I plan to do the same for the coolant running to the heater core so its not so hot in my truck in the summer.

 

even with how i have it plumbed, (into radiator, then into cooler) it took forever to warm up LOL I deffinitely need to do something tho...

I just think that the bypass valve would incorporated alot of extra hoses running, Since it would have to switch on both sides to be able to route through the radiator and then to the cooler in the winter but then just to the cooler in the summer...

Would it interfere with pressure for the trans?

In my head atm im not thinking of a reasonable way to do this.... (to keep it how i have it in the winter (trans out - radiator in - radiator out - cooler in - cooler out - transmission return)

Would it affect it to have the bypass valve just bfore and after the radiator? So basically it runs through the cooler constant but when u open it up it runs through the radiator as well as the cooler.... (

basically what im trying to say is something like this

____________(Constant)---------cooler---------------------- (constant open)
trans output -<--------------------------------------------------------> trans return
____________(closable valve)--radiator-----------------------(closable valve)

the only down side i can see to this setup would be the fluid isnt running into one then to the other, but its 2 separate fluid paths which i suppose could cause pressure issue, and might not even do the same as im thinking in my head... But when closed the fluid still freely flows to the trans cooler and back, and with a flip of a valve it opens it up to the radiators warming ability as well.... It would also prevent me from having to move and switch hoses around all the time...