My 96 Dakota has been stalling for he last 2 weeks, I can drive it about 1 mile before the stalling starts as soon as I let off the gas like coming to a stop sign. After a few restarts the check engine lit comes on but I can't get it to a gararge to have the code checked before it goes off again. I was checking for a vacuum leak when I seemed to have fixed it myself. I removed a vacuum connection on the pwer brake booster to plug in the gage and found a full 22 vac reading but I noticed the eng. was running better so I took it for a drive with the hose off and it ran fine. closing the connection causes it to stall imeadiately. This is wierd, I can just leave a vacuum leak open and drive it anywhere I want but as soon as I connect it the stalling returns. vacuum drops to 14 with the open line but no problem driving????

Thanks for any advice
Rukor
I can always drive it around the parking lot of the nearest repair center until I get the check engine lite back on so they can give me a code number.

 

It could be the notorious power splice. Check the FAQ in this section (just a few posts above this one) for a great write up with pictures.

 

Maybe the check valve on the brake booster is bad. Just a thought, it seems that it is the only thing between the manifold and the booster unless the booster is bad, but you should be able to tell that from the pedal being stiff.

I don't think it would be the splice if the stalling went away when he disconnected the hose to the booster.

Was there a difference in the way the brakes acted when you drove it with the hose off? The booster uses vacuum to operate so if the pedal feels normal when the hose is connected and high and stiff when disconnected, start looking somewhere else for the problem lol.

 

Thanks for reply
Brakes were normal, I did not remove the large hose to the booster just a cap off a small 1/4 in. port that has a cap seal. Pressure dropped to 14 from 22 but all else seems normal. I drove it this morning and it stalled once about 1 mile from home but was OK after that. My thought is that it is in the throltle body but I have been scrathing my head about this for 2 weeks now. It dosen't make sense thay creating a vacuum leak makes it run better.

rukor

 

Just as a heads up, when the check engine light comes back on, cycling the key still works on the 96 to get CEL codes. Check the FAQ if you are not familiar with this method.

 

ThanksRT1993
I will give that a try, I remember how to get the code by turning the key on-off-on,

I did not understand the post about the power splice and could not find the FAQ referred to.

 

Here is the FAQ, for future reference : if you go to the 1st Gen Dakota thread list the FAQ's (there are 2) are always at the top (the 3rd and 4th thread down). Hard to miss them, and they have a ton of useful info.

 

Remove and clean the throttle body paying close attention to the IAC port on the back side. Also carefully clean the tip of the IAC sensor being careful not to push or pull on the tip. All you'll need is a new TB gasket and a spray can of throttle body cleaner.

If it idles funny after the reinstall, disconnect the negative battery cable for 1-2 minutes to reset the PCM then go drive it like you stole it!!

 

Thanks again to all that replied, I will chek out all information and post when I make any progress, I also want to get a Pict of my truck online but geting a lot of rain. I think the paint job is special. I have received many comments about it and it is recognized almost anywhere I go.

Thanks again
Rukor

 

All fixed today, I guess it was the throtle body. I removed and cleaned it. Can't believe it only cost me $6.92 fix. Total for gasket and carb cleaner. CE light off no stalling seems to be running great again. Also reconnected vacuum hose port.
Thanks to all who made suggestions
Rukor