New 90 Vert Owner - Engine Swap
Sure, no problem....I'm not on FB, but the wife is, so give me the FB link, and she can pop in there and respond.
Tried to make it a link, but it wouldn't display. Maybe because you have to be logged in to FB to get to that address.
Last edited by ragged89; May 5, 2017 at 11:17 AM.
Have you considered raising the stall, while you have the transmission out? How did your exhaust turn out?
Also, when I replaced my brake lines, (all of them) I had trouble bleeding the rears. I used a vacuum bleeder (harbor freight) and this has always worked well flushing, but I just couldnt get a solid brake to the rear. I had a retired mechanic who told me to get someone to push the brake pedal down, and for me to open the bleeder. As soon as it stopped bleeding, close the bleeder. Then let the brake pedal up, but do not pump. Again push down and I would open the bleeder, etc. repeating this several times. It worked.
Hope you get it back on the road soon.
Also, when I replaced my brake lines, (all of them) I had trouble bleeding the rears. I used a vacuum bleeder (harbor freight) and this has always worked well flushing, but I just couldnt get a solid brake to the rear. I had a retired mechanic who told me to get someone to push the brake pedal down, and for me to open the bleeder. As soon as it stopped bleeding, close the bleeder. Then let the brake pedal up, but do not pump. Again push down and I would open the bleeder, etc. repeating this several times. It worked.
Hope you get it back on the road soon.
Have you considered raising the stall, while you have the transmission out? How did your exhaust turn out?
Also, when I replaced my brake lines, (all of them) I had trouble bleeding the rears. I used a vacuum bleeder (harbor freight) and this has always worked well flushing, but I just couldnt get a solid brake to the rear. I had a retired mechanic who told me to get someone to push the brake pedal down, and for me to open the bleeder. As soon as it stopped bleeding, close the bleeder. Then let the brake pedal up, but do not pump. Again push down and I would open the bleeder, etc. repeating this several times. It worked.
Hope you get it back on the road soon.
Also, when I replaced my brake lines, (all of them) I had trouble bleeding the rears. I used a vacuum bleeder (harbor freight) and this has always worked well flushing, but I just couldnt get a solid brake to the rear. I had a retired mechanic who told me to get someone to push the brake pedal down, and for me to open the bleeder. As soon as it stopped bleeding, close the bleeder. Then let the brake pedal up, but do not pump. Again push down and I would open the bleeder, etc. repeating this several times. It worked.
Hope you get it back on the road soon.
OK I did not realize you already had a higher stall converter. They really make a difference especially with a cam change. (course, with your other vehicles and experience, I feel sure you already know that!!)
Again, this is just my opinion, but the quality of parts has gone down hill, so much , just in the last few years even.
Off topic, but one of the toilets in my home has a bad flush valve assy. So I ordered one that is supposed to be a OEM part. $35.00. (American Standard) Well it has a small leak where 2 pieces of plastic are sealed together.
Quality, even in brand names is hit and miss anymore. IMO its because a lot of these brand name items are now being produced in china with inferior quality control.
Hope you get that master cylinder figured out.
BTW did you go with true dual exhaust? Pipe size? mufflers?
OK I did not realize you already had a higher stall converter. They really make a difference especially with a cam change. (course, with your other vehicles and experience, I feel sure you already know that!!)
Again, this is just my opinion, but the quality of parts has gone down hill, so much , just in the last few years even.
Off topic, but one of the toilets in my home has a bad flush valve assy. So I ordered one that is supposed to be a OEM part. $35.00. (American Standard) Well it has a small leak where 2 pieces of plastic are sealed together.
Quality, even in brand names is hit and miss anymore. IMO its because a lot of these brand name items are now being produced in china with inferior quality control.
Hope you get that master cylinder figured out.
BTW did you go with true dual exhaust? Pipe size? mufflers?
With all that into consideration I went with gutted cats...2.5 inch pipes into a dual in dual out flowmaster....the dual acts as an h pipe for balancing purposes and it fit nicely next to the gas tank. From there 2.25 to 3" chrome tips out the back. We toyed with side discharge and under bed hidden but in the end the wife wanted the duals out the back. I'm not racing the truck just want it to sound mean so the little hit of perforce loss of single mufflers was worth the aesthetics and cost.
I just have to say that was an excellent thread, good job on your build. It just makes myself want to work on my truck build now.
I do have a couple of questions about your swap.
1) Did you ever dyno the 360, how much are you making? Do you know any tips and tricks for the engine that I have yet to realize?
2) You discussed that you swapped out the TC, since this is my first ever build, having a higher stall converter worth it, and worth the time and money?
3) The reason you went to Carb instead of mpi, is due to simplicity? Through your research were you able to find tune-able efi that could work with our wiring and or sensors, or should I redo everything.
Anyways that is an amazing build, and engine swap. I will be sure to submit my build soon enough.
Here is my engine that I rebuilt, I swap is happening at the end of June. It has jpeg heads, long tube headers, comp cam, aluminum mpi intake, S.A. Gear performance timing set with tensioner and a bunch of other stuff.
I do have a couple of questions about your swap.
1) Did you ever dyno the 360, how much are you making? Do you know any tips and tricks for the engine that I have yet to realize?
2) You discussed that you swapped out the TC, since this is my first ever build, having a higher stall converter worth it, and worth the time and money?
3) The reason you went to Carb instead of mpi, is due to simplicity? Through your research were you able to find tune-able efi that could work with our wiring and or sensors, or should I redo everything.
Anyways that is an amazing build, and engine swap. I will be sure to submit my build soon enough.
Here is my engine that I rebuilt, I swap is happening at the end of June. It has jpeg heads, long tube headers, comp cam, aluminum mpi intake, S.A. Gear performance timing set with tensioner and a bunch of other stuff.






