You could get a Magnum V8 (5.2) from the factory in the 92-96 Dakotas so the '95 front end should allow enough room for everything you need, including the AC condenser. The 5.2 and 5.9 have the same outside dimensions.

I'm keeping my '89 front end as I'm partial to the square look - reminds me of the late 60's MOPARs like the Satellite and Dart. But I certainly understand the reasoning of folks who want to swap it for the longer nose.

I just pulled the front clip off my '89 to make room for the motor and trans to slip in using an engine hoist. To remove the clip - remove the radiator, charcoal can, hood latch, and connections to lights, etc, then remove the hood and fenders (leave the wheel wells in place). Just two bolts on each side connect the clip to the wheel wells, and then two large bolts (one on each side) through rubber isolators to the chassis - that's it. The '95 long nose should bolt right in place.

Can't offer any help w/the M1 hood clearance question...

 

Thanks for the info!

Going to pick up the engine next week, and getting the vert delivered Sunday, so hopefully can start posting some build pics.

On a funny note, I took the 95 donor for its maiden voyage, taking trash to the local dump about 3 miles from my house. First thing, I fill her up at the local gas station. Probably the first time in ages the tanks been filled up judging by the previous owner. About 2 miles from the house near the dump I hear a god awful racket...Something dragging the pavement. I pull over, thinking an exhaust hanger let loose. Nope, the gas tank hanger did! Fortunately, back hanger kept tank from hitting the ground. Walk 2 miles back home, get a neighbor to drive me back and using two cargo straps, ratchet the tank back into place, and use a bungee cord to hold the hanger out of the way. Limp back home and will be replacing the hanger today.

Question...Are the stock dak's low to the ground? I'm a normal size guy, 44 chest, 6'2, and I could not slide under the truck. Truck doesn't appear lowered, rear leaf's are all there, but this thing has a much clearance as my Buick GN, so I was surprised. My old full size F-150 I could camp under.

 

Geesh...Can't believe it's been over 2 years. Well I finally got the vert moved to my garage from storage. Started clearing out the engine bay today. A couple of pics of the engine bay, stuff and the new motor (still need to paint it).

 

Question:

As you can see, the AC manifold is still on the firewall. I don't plan to put AC back into this truck, so when I remove that manifold, what's behind it, and how do I blind it?

And what's the best replacement oil pan to use....You can see on the floor the original V6 pan, with the forward sump. No way the current pan will fit as the sump is in the middle.

 

That rectangular ac section (expansion valve) portion on the firewall is easily removed.
You'll then have the AC Evaporator to deal with.
I can't remember if it sticks out of the firewall after the valve is removed.
It leaves a rectangular hole in the firewall if omitted. Easy to make filler plate if needed. Not sure if the non ac trucks had a cover plate.

I'll take a photo when I get a chance.

 

I took the valve off....the base definitely sticks out the firewall.

 

Ugh. It's a bit of a pain to pull the heater box to then remove the evaporator. to do complete removal.
Then again, my heater box, and both cores were full of debris like leaves etc. I had to pull it anyhow but i'm glad i cleaned it.

 

I'm probably going to have to replace the heater core anyway, because the two hot water stems are crushed. Can't be a good sign of a working heater core.

In the process now of removing the front clip. Have the bumper and valence off (more on the valence in a moment). Working on the driver's side, took out the battery tray, and the four bolts up front (two up top, two on the front). Took out the two down below on the well. Took out the screws off the cowl and removed it. Removed two bolts under the cowl and one under the fender well. Still can't get the fender to come off. Is there a secret way to pry it off? I have the service manual and it says to pivot it at the cowl, but I don't see how. And does the whole interior well and splash guard come with it?

And my valence is cracked, broken and beat to ****. I'm thinking of not even putting it back on. It doesn't house any fogs or anything, so what would be the point of buying another one? And thinking of blacking out the chrome bumper too. Thoughts?

 

Not sure about the front clip. I never removed it on my truck. I simply lifted the whole cab off the frame.
I've painted the engine bay, plus the bottom and interior of the cab.
The rest of the paint was in good shape because it was re-sprayed at some point previously.

I had the front bumper redone at a bumper shop, found a new rear one, and then powder coated them black.

I like both the chrome and black bumpers. I had a hard time choosing, but my wife made the deciding vote.

As for the valence, I wish mine was in better shape. I found some new fog lights that are identical to the originals, and plan on installing the valence again. The lights hanging down by themselves, looks a bit goofy IMO.
Plus I'm trying to keep the truck almost 100% stock.

Without the fog lights, i'm not sure it's "needed".
I'd do a visual test with and without the old valence in place.
I find it easier to decide once I actually see the result

 

One thing to remember - the valence helps to funnel cooling air into the radiator while travelling down the highway.

Is it needed? Most of the time no.

Does it look better with it? Since it helps to cover up the front frame rails, I think so.

Will you need it some days? I haven't yet, but it sure can't hurt any!

RwP