New 90 Vert Owner - Engine Swap
The ECU controls the ASD, which controls power to the fuel pump, if that's what you're asking.
The oil pressure switch is not part of the fuel pump circuitry at all on our trucks.
Since the ASD also controls power to the coil, when you figure out how to power that for your needs, you'll have it for the fuel pump. And being a return style, it won't matter that much if it's running and the motor's not save for the safety implication (the reason it's like it is, is so that if you are in an accident and the motor stops, the fuel pump and spark stop also, reducing the chance of fire.)
RwP
The oil pressure switch is not part of the fuel pump circuitry at all on our trucks.
Since the ASD also controls power to the coil, when you figure out how to power that for your needs, you'll have it for the fuel pump. And being a return style, it won't matter that much if it's running and the motor's not save for the safety implication (the reason it's like it is, is so that if you are in an accident and the motor stops, the fuel pump and spark stop also, reducing the chance of fire.)
RwP
The ECU controls the ASD, which controls power to the fuel pump, if that's what you're asking.
The oil pressure switch is not part of the fuel pump circuitry at all on our trucks.
Since the ASD also controls power to the coil, when you figure out how to power that for your needs, you'll have it for the fuel pump. And being a return style, it won't matter that much if it's running and the motor's not save for the safety implication (the reason it's like it is, is so that if you are in an accident and the motor stops, the fuel pump and spark stop also, reducing the chance of fire.)
RwP
The oil pressure switch is not part of the fuel pump circuitry at all on our trucks.
Since the ASD also controls power to the coil, when you figure out how to power that for your needs, you'll have it for the fuel pump. And being a return style, it won't matter that much if it's running and the motor's not save for the safety implication (the reason it's like it is, is so that if you are in an accident and the motor stops, the fuel pump and spark stop also, reducing the chance of fire.)
RwP
You're putting a 360 in your truck as I recall? If so, you may want a larger fuel line than the stock 5/16, which is OK up to around 300 hp. After that, I've been told you need to size it up.
Also, I don't mean to beat a dead horse but if you're going to be doing anything with the fuel tank consider putting ethanol rated hose in place of what's there now. The rating to look for is SAE 30R10.
Also, I don't mean to beat a dead horse but if you're going to be doing anything with the fuel tank consider putting ethanol rated hose in place of what's there now. The rating to look for is SAE 30R10.
You're putting a 360 in your truck as I recall? If so, you may want a larger fuel line than the stock 5/16, which is OK up to around 300 hp. After that, I've been told you need to size it up.
Also, I don't mean to beat a dead horse but if you're going to be doing anything with the fuel tank consider putting ethanol rated hose in place of what's there now. The rating to look for is SAE 30R10.
Also, I don't mean to beat a dead horse but if you're going to be doing anything with the fuel tank consider putting ethanol rated hose in place of what's there now. The rating to look for is SAE 30R10.
This Dakota will be pokey in comparison.Thanks for the reminder on the hose....will keep that in mind
Last edited by robertmee; Mar 14, 2016 at 08:35 PM.
Yes, I've already pulled out the stock lines as one big assembly to keep as a template for bending new lines. New lines will be 3/8 for the supply and 3/8 or 1/2 for the return. The return is actually more important in this setup (so I've read), since I'm keeping the stock high PSI pump. But, with a 5/16 stock line, guys are running 10secs at 600 HP+. As a point of reference, I'm running 550+ HP at the crank (475 RWHP) on my supercharged marauder with stock 5/16 lines. My Buick GN runs 10.8 secs on stock lines
This Dakota will be pokey in comparison.
Thanks for the reminder on the hose....will keep that in mind
This Dakota will be pokey in comparison.Thanks for the reminder on the hose....will keep that in mind
Last edited by ragged89; Mar 14, 2016 at 09:54 PM.
With a return system, too big is not as bad as too small *grins*
The 600+ HP Thunderbird SC folks are running 3/8" fuel for the most part, though.
OTOH - again, too big will tend to adjust itself; too small will mean that you'll starve the engine at WOT. NOT when you want to run lean!
RwP
The 600+ HP Thunderbird SC folks are running 3/8" fuel for the most part, though.
OTOH - again, too big will tend to adjust itself; too small will mean that you'll starve the engine at WOT. NOT when you want to run lean!
RwP
With a return system, too big is not as bad as too small *grins*
The 600+ HP Thunderbird SC folks are running 3/8" fuel for the most part, though.
OTOH - again, too big will tend to adjust itself; too small will mean that you'll starve the engine at WOT. NOT when you want to run lean!
RwP
The 600+ HP Thunderbird SC folks are running 3/8" fuel for the most part, though.
OTOH - again, too big will tend to adjust itself; too small will mean that you'll starve the engine at WOT. NOT when you want to run lean!
RwP
Last edited by ragged89; Mar 15, 2016 at 03:00 AM.
Well, one more thing to consider is that if you oversize and can flow enough fuel, it'll help prevent vapor lock or the fuel being too hot since as it's returning to the tank and being mixed with the tank it'll cool off.
Later years, however, get the return IN the tank, which boggles my mind (that is, the regulator is a return style regulator, but in the TOP of the tank! Loses the whole advantage to a return style system IMO ... )
RwP
Later years, however, get the return IN the tank, which boggles my mind (that is, the regulator is a return style regulator, but in the TOP of the tank! Loses the whole advantage to a return style system IMO ... )
RwP
Well, one more thing to consider is that if you oversize and can flow enough fuel, it'll help prevent vapor lock or the fuel being too hot since as it's returning to the tank and being mixed with the tank it'll cool off.
Later years, however, get the return IN the tank, which boggles my mind (that is, the regulator is a return style regulator, but in the TOP of the tank! Loses the whole advantage to a return style system IMO ... )
RwP
Later years, however, get the return IN the tank, which boggles my mind (that is, the regulator is a return style regulator, but in the TOP of the tank! Loses the whole advantage to a return style system IMO ... )
RwP
I haven't had the need to flare fuel or tranny lines, but I found an inline double flare tool that works like a champ for brake lines. The old style flare tool (the bar, with screw clamps at each end) had problems gripping the tube, so I researched and found this inline tool: OEM 24364. If you want a single tool to do a wide range of tubing this is not it, but its good for brakes.
Last edited by ragged89; Mar 15, 2016 at 08:36 PM.


